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Vaccum Lines Suzuki Carry

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by gdw4078, Aug 10, 2015.

  1. littlesuzie

    littlesuzie Member

    Kevin,

    Thanks for the info, any chance you can send me a pic of that circuit. I have 2 plugs that have been unplugged back by the rear diff since i got my truck and my rear diff light stays on. I believe this port, wires and light may all be intertwined.

    Thanks
     
    Norwood likes this.
  2. milmor88

    milmor88 Member

     

    Attached Files:

  3. the pou

    the pou Member

    Brokemini, like me, on my 1993 cary, you a a double circuit thermo-switch. When coolant is warm,
    One open the EGV , and the other circuit cut down the idle-up (faster ) by tying with a T after the
    Flow restricter (the plastic thing )that way, it bring the idle down quickly when ingine is warm.
    When cold, the idle-up cut down very sloly because of the flow restrictor.
     
  4. Cole

    Cole Member

    The high idle in choke operation happens through adjustments on the carb itself does it not? The vacuum portion is used to open the choke to ~85% upon startup. That can be done quickly when the engine is warm through the thermo switch or slower when cold through the delay valve. The choke idle rpm is controlled through the thermo pusher on the side of the carb itself. If the coolant takes along time to warm up the higher choke idle will also take a long time to come down and vise versa. I guess what I am trying to say is the time for the high idle to come down depends on coolant temp not vacuum.
     
  5. the pou

    the pou Member

    IMG_0060.PNG IMG_0060.PNG cole,sorry for my mistake, i checked my drawing,the thermo-switch #2circuit goes to the choke .
    Here is a layout of my vacuum line on my 1993 dd51t.on this drawing, pin #3 and #4 shoud be switch.
    # 4 goes to the distributor advance.if you compare the line on the graph on thr right,it is the best
    Rpm/vac for the distributor .
     
  6. Jason Melancon

    Jason Melancon New Member

    Guys
    I’m in need of a 3 + 1 carb diagram bad....
    89 carry 4x4,
    Previous owner pulled carb off without labeling.
    One YouTube video but it’s not specific enough.
    Searched here and in general with NO luck.
    Here is what I’m looking at....
    8820EFA2-DF5E-4421-9D1A-4E8A895602D4.jpeg
     
    Dcouch likes this.
  7. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Have you looked at the "Desperately Need Tuning Help" thread? It has a lot of info.
     
  8. rugerman

    rugerman Member

    Boy i wouldn't have a chance figuring that out being that it not the regular 5 port.

    I thi k your best bet would be to call up g and r imports and ask them what their thoughts are.
     
  9. Jason Melancon

    Jason Melancon New Member

    Jim,
    That is a great thread...but ...
    Nothing on my setup...
    I think I got it close. It’s running at least...
    But still not right.
    My Selina is this:
    My choke has 2 vacuum ports on it & I'm not sure where the vacuum lines SHOULD be coming from to connect to it.
    Also the idle up port...same issue ...straight off the carb or spliced in from something else...??

    G&R said they had no info going back that far.

    Guess I’ll keep tinkering until it starts running right. Changing a few old obvious worn out parts along the way
     
  10. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Sometimes tinkering is what it takes, be sure that you are using new silicon tubing, just because older tubing "looks" good doesn't mean it is.When I still had my F6A I replaced all the tubing as kind of a last resort and it straightened out a lot of problems.
    Keep at it and it will come together, good luck.
     
  11. SDK1968

    SDK1968 Active Member

    a HUGE thank you to the folks in this thread!

    why this isnt a sticky? me gots no clue!!

    thanks to this thread & the pictures in it... along with that fantastic hand drawn pick in post #35... i got EVERY vacuum line on my Mini changed.

    holy crap!! some of those were dang near impossible to get off & then even harder to get your hands in there to put them back on. Even the ones down on the front axle for the 4wd control unit were tough to get to & change.

    in total i used right at 38 feet of 3mm heavy wall blue tubing like another guy here posted.

    found quite a few brittle cracked hoses even though they didnt show up with starter fluid testing & so on. immediate difference in how the motor sounded & started easier.

    STILL not perfect on the carb mix or idles.

    which brings me to this question: how in the heck do you guys adjust that mix screw #6 ?!?!?!?!

    i cant get anything on it & it has some type of protective cap on it that i cant even get off!

    INPUT PLEASE!!
     
    Limestone likes this.
  12. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I never had to get to that screws can't help you there,but for r&r the tubing Harbor Freight sells a 3 piece set of tubing pliers that are long reach and perfect for these trucks.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  13. buckaroobanzai

    buckaroobanzai New Member

    Having same problem with mine,,just picked it up and has a new 1-3 carb on it ....will start with starter fluid and idles very high
     
  14. Puro

    Puro Member

    So this might sound kind of dumb, but I've been re-doing all my vacuum line and I've been wondering what are those small plastic cylinders that are scattered here and there between them? There's a few of them on the vacuum lines attached around the carburetor, spotted another one on the line between the carb and the advance.
    Small filters or diaphragms?

    Any idea what they're called or where I could get new ones?

    Thank you!
     
  15. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Got the same thing on the Daihatsu! From what I can tell. I't apears to me to be some sort of check valve, allowing, air,(vacuum), one way and not back, the other way! At least on mine, I was able to remove two, mark them for direction, and check them out, and that's what I have found! In the parts manual it's called a jet! I don't understand that! All these mini trucks seem to have so many similarities, I would assume, that's what that is. It would be a lot cheaper to manufacture some interchangeable parts. Who knows. I hope this helps!
    Limestone
     
  16. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    They are check and/or vacuum delay valves. There is a standard color coding. I can’t remember it anymore. Black delays it forward, white or clear backwards, and the color tells you the delay time. You might be able to get replacements at NAPA. Before fuel injection just about every car had them.

    A google image search for vacuum delay valve results in lots of tables.
    upload_2020-5-1_12-15-24.png
     
    Limestone likes this.
  17. Puro

    Puro Member

    Ugh... just when I thought this god-forsaken carburetor couldn't get anymore complicated.
    I can't seem to find those anywhere... heck, I don't even know what those look like on the inside, let alone if they still work properly.
    Not even sure those can be cleaned...?
     
  18. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    They are part of the emissions, and typically delays the vacuum signal until the engine is at operating temperature. You can test them with a hand vacuum pump and a vacuum gauge, a couple of feet of vacuum hose and a small inline valve. (Amazon sells both, as does harbor freight, and many others. Inline valves can be found anywhere)

    Hook the pump to the inline valve, then the delay valve, and then from it to the gauge. Pump the valve, up until you have a good vacuum reading on the pumps gauge, then open the inline valve, and watch what happens to the gauge on the other side of the delay valve. Depending on the rating of your valve if it is working there will be a delay of several seconds, to six minutes depending on which valve you have. If you don’t see a delay, reverse the delay valve and try again.

    You might be able to clean them with carb cleaner. Just by blowing it through the connectors with the little red straw. Do not use brake cleaner it may eat the rubber valve.

    From another forum I frequent on old Ford Trucks:

    The Spark Delay Valve (SDV) is located in the distributor vacuum line. The valve has a small orifice in it, which slows down the vacuum flow to the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. By delaying the vacuum to the distributor, a reduction in HC and CO emissions is possible.

    When the coolant temperature is below 95°F, a coolant temperature operated vacuum control valve is opened, allowing the distributor to receive undelayed, ported vacuum through a separate vacuum line. Above 95°F, this line is blocked and all ported vacuum must go through the spark delay valve.



    TESTING


    1. Allow the engine to cool, so that the coolant temperature is below 95°F.
    2. Disconnect the vacuum line which runs from the coolant temperature operated vacuum valve to the vacuum advance unit at the advance unit end. Connect a vacuum gauge to this line.
    3. Start the engine. Increase the engine speed. The gauge should indicate a vacuum.
    4. Allow the engine to warm-up to normal operating temperature. Increase the engine speed. This time the vacuum gauge should read zero.
    5. Replace the coolant temperature operated vacuum valve, if it fails either of these tests. Disconnect the vacuum gauge and reconnect the vacuum lines.
    6. Remove the spark delay valve from the vacuum line, noting which side faces the distributor.
    7. Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump which has a built-in vacuum gauge to the carburetor side of the spark delay valve.
    8. Connect a vacuum gauge to the distributor side of the valve.
    9. Operate the hand pump to create a vacuum. The vacuum gauge on the distributor side should show a hesitation before registering.
    10. The gauge reading on the pump side should drop slightly, taking several seconds for it to balance with the reading on the other gauge.
    11. If Steps 9 and 10 are negative, replace the spark delay valve.
    12. Remove the vacuum gauge from the distributor side of the valve. Cover the distributor side of the valve with your finger and operate the pump to create a vacuum of 15 in. Hg.
    13. The reading on the pump gauge should remain steady. If the gauge reading drops, replace the valve.
    14. Remove your finger. The reading of the gauge should drop slowly. If the reading goes to zero rapidly, replace the valve.

     
    Limestone likes this.
  19. Puro

    Puro Member


    Oof.

    Guess I still got some work to do. Jeez. Thanks for the tip!
    Though, you're saying those are for emissions... would removing them altogether affect performance at all? To be frank that's all that matters to me.
     
  20. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Removing them completely probably wouldn’t hurt how it runs, and might even help a bit.
     
  21. Kim Smith

    Kim Smith New Member

    I am in the same boat but i thin i got mine figured out.
     
  22. Curtis710

    Curtis710 New Member

    Did you ever remove them all to see what happens?
     
  23. My Name Card

    My Name Card New Member

    I made the same mistake
     
  24. bennie

    bennie New Member

    I have just replaced the carburetor on 1995 DD51T with one which is 3+3 vacuum connections. Can someone give me vacuum line diagram for that carb?
     
  25. Robert Orr

    Robert Orr New Member

    Did your truck originally come with a 3+3 carburetor? The reason I ask is if it did not, and you purchased a 3+3 carburetor, you don't need a vacuum diagram for a 3+3, you need a diagram for whatever carburetor came on your truck from Suzuki. That, and what options you still have on your truck.

    For instance, if your truck came with a 3+1, that is the diagram you need and you can merely leave the rubber caps on the 2 unused ports that do not need to be utilized.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Sincerely,
    Robert
     
  26. MathPelletier

    MathPelletier New Member

    This thread was really useful to demystify everything concerning vacuum lines! But, I still have some questions.
    - Am I the only one who doesn't have an idle switch (for the red lines)? And where can I buy it?
    - Where should I connect line 6 to the carburetor?
    - I don't have a vaccum switch either. Where can I buy it?
    upload_2023-11-15_20-46-53.png
     
  27. 94SCarry

    94SCarry New Member

    Did you ever confirm the vac lines on your 3+3 carb? I had a similar “issue” as the 3+3 I bought had a different hose orientation for the choke (2 lines)
    Let me know if you can.
     
  28. 94SCarry

    94SCarry New Member

    Did you ever confirm the vac lines on your 3+3 carb? I had a similar “issue” as the 3+3 I bought had a different hose orientation for the choke (2 lines)
    Let me know if you can.
     
  29. Baddy

    Baddy New Member

    Thank you so much for this topic! Amazing information that allowed me to change all the vacuum lines on my '93 Carry 4wd. I couldn't have done it without the information in here.
     
  30. jacr

    jacr New Member

    Can you tell me where the other nipple on the airbox connects to?
    Thank you
     

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