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Truck dies when warm

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by jody, Feb 10, 2013.

  1. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Saw one of the 2 bolts yesterday but didn't have time to locate the other. Sure it is there and I'll see it when I get all the hoses out of the way. Kind of looking forward to it more and more. Not too too concerned about the hoses. Just anxious to get in there and fix my problem. But I read in a post a while back where someone had simply used a gas can elevated above the carb and bypassed the fuel pump. even though I did put a pressure gauge on it once and got a bouncy 3 to 4 lbs pressure I might try that. Would eliminate a whole bunch of things. I don't know this for sure, but I can visualize that this thing runs long enough to empty the gas out the carb bowl and stops. There are dents in that idea but since it isn;t a big deal to try anyway, hey, why not. As for the cat that you will cut off, I would have hated doing that with a hack saw. Borrowed a recip saw and bought a new blade. Obviously left enough to attach flex exhaust pipe. And with a big old Louisiana grin I cut away. Kids loved the sound it made running open header. :) Ordered new muffler yesterday. I am real interested in hearing your feelings (Post cussing lol) on replacing the timing belt. I've done it before on other cars I've had, but always with the comfort knowing that if I really got in a jam that I could tow it down to the local shop for reassembly.
     
  2. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Haha I've also done a few timing belts. I just really don't like the idea of the valves being able to hit the piston if it breaks and the **** that im 6 foot 4 and do.t really fit in any of the spots that would make it easier to do Hahaha. I believe the bolt that holds the carb on is a 12mm. And that your 3 to 4 psi is right. What i would do is disconnect your return fuel line from the tank and run the engine to see if the fuel is making it back to the tank if it is then you would have an idea of what is going on inside the carb. Also if you hook up a fuel tank to the carb you either need to unplug the fuel pump or have a bucket ready to catch the fuel that might come out of the line.. I like the bucket. Cause then while thwart engine is running you can see if the pump continues to or if it shuts off. If the dang weather would cooperate with us up here i would have started wrenching on mine again. Yesterday we had blue sky sunshine a sweltering 9 degrees then i blinked and when i opened my eyes........white out blizzard. Don't get me wrong here. I enjoy winter and the fact that no matter what car or truck i drive i CAN drive like im in the dukes of hazard everywhere. Any car can spin the tires and slide around a corner. And if a cop sees you they give ya the thumbs up. Woo hoo ya made it!! I've tried doing that in the seer by the way and no thumbs up.but the turn on their pretty lights and chase you down. But there comes a time when it needs to.go away. Hahaha any way ill let ya go. Good luck.
     
  3. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Man, that is why I pay you the big bucks! :) I had planned initially on just plugging the line, but with the overflow I can test both systems at once. And the only way I have of testing the pump other than teeing into a pressure gauge is by running the motor with an alternate fuel source. Sounds reasonable. Gonna pick up 10 extra feet of fuel line to make sure it clears anything that could cause a spark. I am sure someone somewhere is reading this and thinking that this is a bomb waiting to happen. But I guarantee that every precaution will be made to be sure the gas stays where it belongs. I am not sure what the result would be in having a plugged spillback line, and I am pretty sure that I have replaced all lines both coming and going. But this would answer lots of questions. I thought the spillback line was for vapors, but guess it could be for excess fuel huh?
     
  4. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Hahaha no problem. Actually im fairly positive the full pump runs all the time when the engine is running. That's why there is a return line. I guess that way they don't have to use a pesky pressure switch or fancy fuel rail with a mechanical bypass. All i did was slide a 1 gallon gas jug under the truck with the poor spout on it. Then i stuffed the return line in the spout a ways and had my son watch it so it didn't over flow. I think there is a pressure switch on the carb that shuts off the pump if it gets too much pressure. So.......in theory if the return line was plugged it would shut down the pump.
     
  5. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Well in my case I have an engine driven fuel pump, so the pressure switch wouldn;t come into play. But good to know if I ever replace it with an electric. Anyway, I am still alive and my truck is still dying. Did the test yesterday when I got home. The fuel pump pumped faster than the truck sucked it in. Of course it should, but Know how I know??? I discharged the pump into the same can that I was pulling from, and of course it was heading for an overflow. So much for taking every precaution. Saw it happening and shut the truck off and it quit of course. Wasn;t bad but could have been. Word of caution if anyone ever tries that. So after it died I removed the hose going to the carb inlet and drained all the gas out of it. Refilled it with Seafoam and pumped it into the carb, (I used a common boat motor hand pump) hopefully to disolve any gunk that might be plugging the seat. Not sure if it will start again like that, but the worst that can happen I guess is that I will spill it when I pull the carb. Planningon that tomorrow.
     
  6. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Hahaha i sort of thought that might happen. I didn't know you had a mechanical pump. Sorry maybe i just forgot. The reason i put my jug back by the tank and didn't run the return into the same tank i was running from was for that very reason. We have had that happen on boats when people switch tanks and don't turn the right valves on or off. Hahaha the seafoam is a good idea. When you start the engine it will smoke something awful. Will probably foul your plugs so put some old ones in before you fire it up.
     
  7. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Yep, that was my plan. Good idea. I've had the seafoam experience on my boat as well. That was the first time I had heard about sea foam. Shoulda bought stock in the stuff. :) I do have an almost new set of plugs just standing by with nothing else to do. The ones that are in there came with the kit I bought so I threw them in there for grins. Before I do anything I wanted to pull them and see if they can tell me anything about what is going on upstream. And I sincerely hope I see lots and lots of black smoke. Black smoke in air = clean cylinder walls. We'll call it giving something back to the earth. Ha! Anyway, getting ready to head home for the weekend. I'll let you know on Monday how it went! With a little luck I will get my doors re-hung as well. They drooped pretty bad so my son who is in Machinist school took them in and made new pins for them. Hope it works. Have a good weekend.
     
  8. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Nice!! Hope everything works out. Nice cheat by the way with the door pins Hahaha. If they work i ve an idea to throw at ya about something else entirely that would make a few bucks as well as make me happy just to have one Haha. We are supposed to be having a really killer northern lights show in the sky this weekend so i think im goin to sideline a few things and stay up all night to watch em and take pictures Hahaha. Ill let ya know how that goes.......
     
  9. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Hey Bud, I'll have to let you know how the door pins work. He had to bring them back to school to recut part of it. Anyway, I tore the carb off yesterday. As you said it really wasn;t that bad. Found a couple of problems. Have you seen any of this? First, the solenoid that most describe as the overspeed solenoid (On the bottom of the carb, single wire) looks like something else on mine. I am not the brightest bulb in the box but I see no way this thing can cut off fuel flow. What it seems to do is, on command it vents the carb bowl to what appears to be an overflow tube. There is also a vacuum line on it. either way, it is broke. I was able to bypass it but I should probably replace it. There is also a vacuum switch on the cab side of the carb that doesn;t move when I pull a vacuum on it. Kind of thinking that is my main problem. I removed it also and put it all back together. Good news is it runs, and so far runs without dying. (So far) But it runs rough and does all sorts of weird rpm things. Also have a miss that bothers the crap out of me but I will address that later. Been in contact with JWicker who is replacing his carb. If it is the same as mine I may throw the dice and buy his old one since the parts I need on this one might cost what the truck cost me originally. :) Another thing, I didn;t see that plate you spoke about with the 4 screws. Pretty much pulled everything off while I had it down and cleaned it as best as I could. Interesting little beast to say the least. And last I took Fupabox recommendation and verified the hot water passages were all clear which they seem to have been. Progress isn;t always a straight line I guess. This PC is messed up but I will try to post pics.
     
  10. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    DSCF4125.jpg DSCF4120.JPG
    The first pictureis the mystery solenoid. The second one is a good shot of the vacuum switch, but if you look close at the top you can also see the solenoid, still mounted in this case.
     
  11. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    If that's like my S80 there's supposed to be a tiny O ring on the end of that solenoid shaft and if it's missing it runs terrible.I can't see if it's there in the pic.
     
  12. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    DSCF4131.JPG DSCF4124.JPG Hello Jim, That is exactly what i was expecting. But the attached picture is what I actually have. (This pic is of course after I removed it. Should have taken one before I disassembled it). It is a disc about the size of a dime. when de-energized it covers up a hole in the side of the bowl. That hole is higher than the fuel level would get ordinarily so it shouldn't overflow. But I just don't see the point of it. Or am I completely wrong and it really is a different variation of the overspeed shutoff? Comes from the same electrical plug that would be used for the shutoff. Rght now I have it reassembled without the spring and disc and it is running. Albeit a little rough. Now I will add this. Assembled correctly and with no power going to it, that hole is closed because of the spring. The second picture is the best one I have of the whole arrangement. To the left of the assembly is the 3 hole mounting surface that the solenoid mounts to. What you can;t see is inside that cavity is the hole that is covered by the disc in the first picture. Hope I didnt over explain what I have. But this solenoid doesn;t seem to have an o-ring that belongs on the end.
     
  13. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    That carb is way different than mine. Sorry bud. Im not sure why they would want to turn off the overflow. Seems odd to me. Unless it ia supposed to do it at wide open throttle. The vacuum actuater you have that doesn't move might be able to be freed up though. Maybe spray some starting fluid or carb cleaner in from the shaft side...or non vacuum line side and let it soak. Glad ya got it to run. I wonder if its just pumping too much fuel or if the choke isn't open all the way. What do your plugs look like now after running.
     
  14. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Maybe I'm not seeing this right but I think that triangular cover with the solenoid in it is part of the top of the float bowl and the solenoid is in the fuel stream.Isn't the tube on that piece the fuel inlet? If I'm seeing this right I think that is the low or slow speed solenoid that shuts fuel off when the key is turned off to prevent dieseling.Just a long distance guess.If it is I'm sure that the little groove near the end of that plunger needs an O ring in it.If it's like mine it's a thin ring.I found one that worked in a Harbor Freight O ring kit.
     
  15. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Actually the tube seen in that picture goes to a canister attached to the frame rail on the right side of the truck. Unfortunately I forgot by camera disc card at home today so I'm using some of my saved ones. And you are right in that there is power here as long as the key is on. But it is not at all like the Fuel cutoff solenoid mounted on top of the carb. I wish it were tho, make my life a little easier I think. Moose, good advice on spraying the switch. So I tried it and so far it is the same. I don;t understand it. I will say that it is pretty hard to push the shaft in. And I don;t think the diaphragm is torn. Seems that vacuum is tied directly to it, so I would expect it to move as soon as the engine is running. View attachment Overflow1.pdf View attachment Overflow.pdf (Hope these got attached)
     
  16. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    Splauchs sorry,haven't been too active on the forum lately..just so frigging busy..if I remember correctly your truck is a left hand drive truck originally sold in the USA,not a Japanese impoted right hand drive..if so that second solenoid is the speed limiter that cuts fuel flow depending on speed...the Hijets sold in the USA were considered low speed vehicles for off road use only ,and had the carb altered for a speed limiting solenoid..there were some posts on here somewhere on speed limiters..some trucks were locked in low range to limit top speed,and some had the upper gears blocked off with a steel plate

    the vac plunger you listed in blue is the "idle up actuator" for raising idle speed when the engine is under load ...like when you turn on air conditioning while at a stop and the idle dips..the actuator will increase the idle back up higher so the truck won't stall.
     
  17. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Good morning Fupabox, very good to hear from you. Actually mine is a RHD, so I'm assuming from your post that it is actually a Japanese import that should not have had speed limiting. However, it seems I did see a little black box behind the glove box. Never really dug to check it out closer and so it might actually be something else. There definitely is not anything electrical on the transmission end of the Speedometer cable. Not sure if you saw the pics I have on this post from yesterday of that solenoid. One of them shows the disc that is attached to the solenoid shaft. Bout as big around as a fingernail, secured with a spring and a "C" clip. The picture shows it not mounted to the solenoid anymore because I didn;t think of taking one while it was. As for the vac plunger, that should react to vacuum the same as any of the other vac solenoids right? Apply vacuum and it moves the plunger in? It directly affects the Cold Idle adjustment, and in fact that adjustment will not work if the plunger is disconnected. There is nothing that I can think of that would require a boost of power (I do not have A/C). Maybe I can rig it to not have any affect. That way I can have my cold speed idle adjustment back.
     
  18. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Website back to normal it seems.
     
  19. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Wow man. I don't even want to try and guess on that silinoid Haha. That vacuum can though........I've had a few seize up here. Pb blaster in from the shaft side till its full or automatic transmission fluid and let it soak for a day or two. I had the one that control's the choke do the same thing. Froze solid. Filled it with Pb blaster and tranny fluid and let it set for a couple days while i did other things. Works good now. Knock on wood............ya might be able to find one at napa or some other parts store that will work. Maybe. Hopefully. Possibly........
     
  20. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    View attachment Disc.pdf View attachment Overflow4.pdf View attachment Overflow3.pdf View attachment Solenoid.pdf Hi Everybody! Kind of want to resurrect this discussion and draw on all this experience. My '93 S83P Truck has a very noticeable miss. I've put a timing light on it and don't see any obvious hiccups on any cylinder wire. I replaced the Distributor Cap, rotor, all high tension wires, verified valve adjustments and adjusted timing to 7 deg BTDC with both vac lines removed from the Vac advance. I've removed the carb and did a top to bottom cleaning which eliminated the original problem where it would kill after running a few minutes. Side note would be that problem was PROBABLY due to the float being out of adjustment and not allowing the needle valve to come off of the seat. Interesting thing is that the miss wasn't noticeable before I replaced the cap, rotor and wires. Which REALLY makes me suspect that system. May go back to the old electrical parts one at a time to isolate that. I've also replaced the fuel filter, all fuel lines and vacuum lines. Verified the fuel pressure (Mechanical pump) is between 3-5 pounds which seems sufficient to keep gas in the bowl. It's running rich as evidenced by my new tailpile being black and there is some smoking occasionally. The # 1 and # 2 plugs were a little wet, but not terribly. Maybe advice on leaning it out is in order. I've also spoken with Don at Yokahama about a replacement carb which I found to be reasonably priced. Just didn;t want to make that jump until I've exhausted all the talent available here. One other thing of interest. When I took the carb apart, I found that the lower solenoid was bad. (Mentioned that in an earlier post) But, I don't believe this is an American truck equipped with speed limiting. In fact the bad solenoid does not look at all like the upper solenoid used to prevent dieseling. It actually has a dime sized disc on the end of the shaft and not an o'ring. See pics. When energized (which is the norm), that disc covers a hole in the bowl that spills out to an overflow canister on the right frame rail. Also has a vacuum line going to it. Since it didn;t seem like it was a necessary part to run I left the disc off. I could be very mistaken on that since I really don;t know why it is there but it had to have a purpose. Long post I know, but wanted to try to get all the facts as I know them out there. I will try to add more pics of the disc and solenoid.
     
  21. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Ummmm i think that overflow can your talking about ia the evap canister amd that disk actually is important. If im correct.....big if. That evap canister is for fumes from your tank to get burned off when you start the truck. Without that disk wouldny it allow fuel to be pushed into the charcoal canister and cause weird bad things to.happen?
     
  22. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Kind of what I thought. But if the float is set properly seems like the fuel level shouldn't even reach that hole it would overflow through. Seems like at least. If I could find one for a reasonable price I might try it. Now that you mention it though, maybe I am taking it too lightly. After all it is gasoline and that in itself is a concern. Not like if it were a coolant.New carb sounding better and better all the time. :)
     
  23. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Hahaha hey now!!! I never advocate throwing hundred dollar bills at something in the hopes of fixing it!!!! Hahaha but if you habe em and want to start throwing them around.........start tossin em this way bud!!! Hahaha. Youll get it man. I have faith in you. If i can figure.mine out i know you will
     
  24. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I'll try to attach a pic of the 2 solenoids from my S80.The one on the left, with the single lead, is the low speed and in this pic the o ring is missing from near the end of the plunger.The other,with 2 leads, is the fuel shut off or speed limiter which is controlled by a little adapter box at the trans that the speedo cable attaches to and will cut the fuel off at 25 mph if left attached. DSCN2837.JPG
     
  25. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Hello Jim, Thanks for the input. Your low speed looks similar to mine except mine has two leads. It's the one mounted at the top of the carb and sort of angled in my case. I had them both pulled out to check them and that one worked, but got very hot when put on 12 volts for more than a minute or so. The other solenoid, and the only other electrical thing on my carb, is flanged as you can see. (And doesn't work) There is an open ended 4 conductor white connector near the end of the speedo cable, but nothing is there to connect it to. To add to the confusion, it is a RHD which if I understand correctly was not American so shouldn't have speed limiting. But, and I need to look again, it looks like there is the little speed control black box nestled up against the glove box. Incidentally, the green connector at the carb that connects to the two solenoid has 12 volts on it as long as the key is on like you would expect with the speed control and low speed shutoff systems. All very confusing to someone like me who is trying to uderstand the concept. A lot going on in this puppy
     
  26. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    Spoke with Don at Yokohama and he is checking to see if they have a replacement stateside that he can ship to me. He termed the solenoid an "Upper Bowl Vent". Anyway, I've thrown in the towel. I still have a miss which I can't yet explain. But I am pretty sure that one of my big problems in the carb is actually the little shaft that goes through the throat from the choke plate out to the actuator. The hole is wallowed out (Louisiana for hole too big for shaft going through it). That is open to jokes I am sure, but as pertains to my carb, I believe it is allowing the throttle plate to stick to the throat. Erratic, so there is no telling when it will do it. Between the bad vacuum motor, the bad upper bowl vent, and this, I believe I finally have enough excuses to buy a new one. Life is great. :)
     
  27. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    You must be one of those "sheepskin cajuns"where I grew up that would be wallered out.These things can be frustrating for sure but it sounds like you are on the right trail.I think Don is a good guy and will do what he can to help you.
     
  28. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    For grins might call Magic Valley Mini Trucks and pick their head. Lavern likes those older S80's left hand drives. She is supplying the USA parts for the older left hand drive Daihatsu's these days. 208-410-0280
     
  29. splauchs

    splauchs Member

    I will keep that number at Magic Valley TRAX, thanks for the scoop! The new Carb is all but ordered as I am waiting on Don to e-mail me the payment instructions. I know it doesn't matter for the most part but it is a RHD. I have a list of less important parts I will need to get once the carb/ignition issue is resolved and will put Lavern on my Outlook contact list so that I can call them. How I long for those days. :) Jim, not sure what a sheepskin cajun is, I'm kind of dumb like that, but I confess that I am a cajun. Not nearly as rich as the Duck Dynasty gang though. :) And yes, Don has answered questions that I never even thought of asking. Man I love this forum.
     
  30. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    i guess I'm showing my antiquity again.College diplomas used to be on sheepskin back in ancient times when they were rare and the term sheepskin was used identify an educated person.
     

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