Trannny Sensors for DD51t, with local parts...

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Got a simple one for you guys today.
I could not wait for the vendors to get their sh!t together on this one; nor eat the price.
Carquest or Maslak, could both get me the sensor for $34 bucks, taxes and all...
"Standard-Motor-Company-LS247"


A little background?
The front sensor, is ON, when pushed UP; OFF when extended.
The rear sensor, is ON, when extended, and OFF when pushed UP.
Thread; 14x1.5 metric.


Guys are paying way too much for these parts, and it's stating to tick me off...
The OEMs were of aluminum housing and polycarbonate pusher pin. (the pins on mine broke)
The replacements are steel housings and steel pusher pins. (also, "made-in-Japan" on the box)


The LS247 is a direct replacement for the front sensor. As it is closed while UP, and open, while down.
Threads and protrusion are of exact tolerance of the original though; for both front and rear sensors.
Just hand screw it in, then one-half turn to seat the seal...(which is included with the LS247).:sly:
We just need to incorporate a Bosh 5-terminal relay, in the rear, to change the UP-ON, to an EXTENDED-ON...$5-bucks...
AND, replace and retain the original connectors, of course...






Don't make me mad...:sly:


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Ha your on a roll with the vendors, nice find

 

They won't even answer emails from me now...
Mistake...I'll dedicate every minute of my time to finding LOCAL-CHEAPER, substitutes.

Answer the phone; don't make me mad...

I'll fricken build an engine block out of UHMWPE...

 

Don't forget guys, the 4WD indicator light and system actuation can-not be tested, without the engine running.
Vacuum is the motive; electrical is the indicator.

The engine MUST be running to perform a complete testing of the system.

How it all should work;
The "4WD" indicator should be ON. when ever any subsystem, of the 4wd system is ON.
Handel down? Axle lock ON?
"4WD" indicator, should still be ON.
Handlel down, Axle-lock OFF?
"4WD" indicator should be OFF.

It's not just a switch, but runs to the controller.

Pay attention; Handel down? Axle lock OFF?
Then no ""4WD" annunciator...

The pulling of the handle is a one stop actuation.
Axle lock light ON.
4WD light ON.
Tranny locked.

To get to 2WD;
Handle down,
4WD light should still be ON,
Axle lock switch OFF.
4WD light should go out.

If this is not what happens, then you have a sensor problem...:sly:

See the above....

 

There is one other thing that causes this on the DD51 series of trucks, there is a 4wd control module mounted under the dash on the drivers side of the truck. We had a couple trucks come in that were having issues shifting into/engaging the 4WD. It was strange because some times it would work perfect and other times if you left it sit the 4WD would eventually activate. I checked EVERYTHING in the 4WD system and finally pulled the 4WD control module out of a truck that was working fine and swapped it with one of the trucks that wasn't acting right, and sure enough that did it. Apparently over time these 4WD ECMs can begin to have connection problems and need to be replaced, it's a very common part and can be picked up used in JP for about 30.00.

 

$30 bucks, I wish...

Just looking up a few parts right now;
One vendor wants $300 for a rear drum...for one.
Another vendor is offering OEM replacement environmental control knobs, the little piece of plastic on the end of each of the control levers...$15 bucks...for one!!!

This is why I get ticked off. Guys are paying these prices, so the vendors keep those prices, and the ones that have reasonable prices end up jacking their prices to match the market.

For me it just means that I can't get any parts. Cu'z there ain't no way in hell that I'm going to pay those kind of rates.

I'm happy to deal with someone who will sell rear used drums for $50 bucks ish...but $150 for a used rear drum?

If I find that a swift will work, I will MAKE SURE that everyone knows it. Then you CAN'T sell your drums. (overpriced vendor guy)

My dad just bought a rotor for his dodge van, caravan I think, 2009 ish...$18 bucks...

 

I just did both calipers,one rotor and the best pads from NAPA for my '99 Dodge 2500 for les than $150.Yes we are getting bent over but in some cases that's the price of our addiction.

 

True, but I think that with a little leg work, and a little modification, we could put a dent in the retarded factor.

A lot of the parts on these trucks are supplied to the factory, from the same suppliers that make the parts for North American trucks and cars. It's just a matter of finding the connection.

This particular OEM part, I crossed from an 87 Samurai. Then the aftermarket part, "Standard Motor Company" LS247.
They have a great web site, great for crossing stuff, once you get onto the trail.





Can't get a sensor for your 98 Suzuki Sidekick? Just go to the local Chevy dealer and ask for a Back-up light switch for an 04 Chevrolet Tracker?? Same part.

Better yet, walk into Napa and ask for the LS247; cheaper...

Why can't we do this with every part?

I just rebuilt my rear brake cylinders with parts off the shelf and a honing gizmo. Why? New was $150 each, a rebuild DD51t kit was $75 each...not gonn'a happen. What's wrong with a rear one off a tracker?

 

Yup, found them on E-bay for as low as $18 bucks. Still want to pay $150?






Got a request?

DMMM...

 

Rear drum brakes for a 93 carry?

 

I need help with a distributor cap also, I have the mitsubish part number off my cap but I cant find the cap and none of the auto parts stores can cross reference it

 

Solved that with a reline for $50 bucks.
Same price on the fronts.

Where are you at? Like a close large city...

 

Hattiesburg Ms 39401, My front brakes are ok I replaced them a few months ago only payed $60 so not that bad i guess but still crazy compared to my full size truck

 

$60's not bad, if you want to go reline, give these guys a call:
http://www.inlandtruck.com

For the cap, one member got the cheapest cap possible, then made a strap to mount it. Matching rotor.
Not needed though.
If a cap does not have carbon tracks (cracked) it doesn't really need to be replaced, just cleaned.
Dremel tool with wire brush end. WD40 spray and good as new.

 

Yea the cap isnt cracked yet but the points inside are almost gone I gave it a good cleaning last time I had it off

 

Points are easy, and the OEM's are cheap.
Just the mounting is of concern, but you can mod that.

The cap, cu'z it's a 3, not a lot to chose from for North American stock supplies. Swift maybe?

 

OK spaner, why is it in this internet age ,that you understand much better than I ever will, we can't access Mitsubishi parts for tune up stuff or starters or whatever like we can Delco,Autolite or Echlin? If I google Mitsubishi parts all I get is American dealers wanting to rape me.A lot of parts on all these trucks that I have fooled with are Mitsubishi branded but the only place to access them is through the vendors.

 

Yea, you'll have to take it to the store and pull the part to match it but, looks very close, if not the right one...

 

Retail on that is $20...

 

Psh that geo metro cap is only $4 ha i'll try to track one down

 

Dare you go..

That's what I was getting at Jim. The parts are not made by Mitsubishi. They are made FOR Mitsubishi by...WHO?
Just the name stamp on there. So, you order your part from the dealer. The part was made at the factory For Mitsubishi (just the name stamp) then it goes to the dealer, then to you. The same company that makes that part for Mitsubishi probly makes the same part for EVERY manufacturer, or most.
Engines, trannys and bodies/frames are unique to the company. AKA, Ford. Do you really think that a wiper relay module is different on every single make and model?

Tires and windows are accepted as non-dealer items. I'm saying that there is a lot more out there. It's just hidden a little better.

Start looking...

 

Looks like your best source is Chrysler Jim.

Google "who makes Mitsubishi parts?"

That'll get you started.

 

My '95 Scrum, which is actually a DD51 Suzuki, has a Mitsubishi starter with a tag on it that says the part # is 31100-70D2 Mod 2T47081.Any of these Mitsubishi sites say no match.This makes me think that Mitsubishi is a large corporation which makes a lot of things ,including the vehicles they sell on the North American market, but we can't access all their enterprises because we're supposed to fall in line and buy the Lancer or whatever they have decided we want and these other parts lines are none of our business.But we can go to NAPA and buy echlin or Delco but they have no info on these Mits parts that can't be referenced to one of the American models.

 

Well that's interesting, cu'z I'm 100% sure that my DD51t starter reads "Denso".

Maybe we should both take pics and compare?

 

AND, I'm sure that I can get my starter rebuilt locally, when the time comes, for less than 80. I already asked..

Getting back to the crossing parts and the hiding of cross information...

Up until, 15years ago, every North American vehicle used universal standardized headlights. DOT, NAFTA, the big 3. Everyone standardized to the "2A1" "2B1" "1A1" halogen...Remember those days? Blow a head light..Canadian Tire..$12 bucks for a sealed beam.

Now it's a bulb, but the right one, but forget about replacing the marred yellowed plastic housing. Dealer item.
AND you better buy a set with the new car, and put them in the basement, cu'z every make and model are unique.

 

Yea my starter is a denso I had it off a couple days ago

 

I have 3- F6A engines with starters right now and 2 are Denso but my Scrum is Mitsubishi which leads me to believe that Denso is oem and the Mits. is after market replacement.I agree about rebuilding locally,there is a rebuilding shop near me that will rebuild anything for a fraction of new from vendors.

 

I had a call today that leads me to believe that a new parts player is in the making. The potential parts player just recently bought a engine from a well known mini truck part supplier and when it arrived the freeze plugs were rotten and rusted falling apart. Needless to say they were pretty pissed. They have also been buying parts in the USA for four yrs. from all of the USA part suppliers and have been paying the price and tired of it. My information is that they have already contacted a parts supplier in Japan that is hungry and wants to grow his company. Hopefully this will materialize and we will have some better pricing. As information comes I'll pass it on.
Until then I will try and be better about posting things that we run across that match up.
The best thing anybody can do is make friends with your local parts store and gain their trust. Like Spanner said more parts cross over than you would think. I have two part stores in town that will let me go behind the counter and look at what they have instead of taking up their time they could be helping other customers. It never hurts to ask and all they can say is no.

 

Thanks Terry, for posting up.
Guys don't always take the time to say THANKS, and your opinion is valued here. Even if a few members don't agree with it, from time to time; me sometimes too...
Remember those "red-box" boots? (They were garbage!!) The latest that I bought (as per my thread), I deem to be "indestructible", and worth what ever the cost, to be had. I ride to destroy, and they look NOW, like they did out of the box, LAST season...

I read a lot into that post, and I hope that it sees the light of day. I just can't stop ragging on the vendors of late. The recent vendor "morph" has left a bad taste in my mouth.
I'll pay, not a problem, a reasonable price, and time for delivery though. (Visa, and I "decide-to-pull-the-trigger", Via UPS ground) Not a problem for the vendor; MONEY IN THE BANK.

Local parts? A lot can be had from the local North American supply chain. Part of the problem here (on this forum), is the reference section...just not the ideal for the application. Too many "newbies" messing it up, and too many members with incorrect title, to-reference-the-fix.

The fix?
If I could do it?
A sketch of the truck, with "sections", just like the vendors site's.
Sketch of the truck; "Rear-half" selection; "drive train"; rear-diff; diff-lock-system; VSV-Valve; THREAD-local part and replacement instructions for rear diff-lock control...cu'z, I just did that.
Cheap replacement "dorman" #. Had via "Summit", "Digikey", or even "Jegs".
That info is here, on this site; but fricken hard to find, even though I posted it.
BUT, the motivation...20% of the cost of the "Japanese-Minitruck-Vendor".
Same valve, in 4-spots. Total savings...$320.00...:sly:


ALSO, fremontminitrucks...
Appreciated, not a problem in this case, but a DOCUMENTED problem in MANY cases here, on this site; and, I just could not get a word in edge wise, to say THANKS...
Don't ever be afraid to post-up such good information...
Knowledge here, is the best of posts, system-wide, for the 4WD system. This is the "4WD-Controller-Location"...THANKS...
THE POU, advocates a "pull-and-repair" of this module via solder contact repair of Inertial-Cracks in the board system connections. I just happen to agree with this concept; when it becomes, of an obvious problem, and fix. (VIA trouble-shooting-techniques, that he has mentioned elsewhere, here-on this site)

For me, the Selector-Lever was getting hard to pull UP; and the "4WD"-Indicator was getting fussy. Turns out, cu'z the sensor-pin was broken...

Sensors replaced; shifting of the selector, is now "smooth-as-butter", and the indicator light is "immediate".

System section repair; complete...op:

 

I remember reading ,in some post a while back, one of the members from the Phillipines said he could walk into several part stores in his city and buy any part he needed,cheap.We need to romance someone like that to supply our needs.I just ordered $365 worth of parts from a vendor and know damn well it should have been $150 or less.
If you need bearings or seals contact Charley at CBR bearings &seals in Fallbrook,Ca.760 731 7207,real good guy and knows his stuff.After wasting 10 days and $45 trying to get a rear tranny seal for my Hijet,I learned about him and in 5 min.walked out of his place with the exact seal for $4.Just know what you need and have accurate measurements to give him.