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Timing Marks on transmission housing

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by TooManyProjects, Oct 15, 2020.

  1. The timing marks are under the little "door" on the transmission bell housing. Well, under the little door, is a tab with 3 points on it. Is one of those "0" (in the middle) and the ones on either side 5 degrees from zero? Or what am I looking at in relation to timing marks?
    Thanks much!
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Well, on mine, under that little black rubber door, that lifts straight up and out, is a little tab like you said, except, on mine from left to right it reads, "0", and four hash marks, then a "10" ! So to me, each hash mark represents, 2 digits! (0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10)!
     
  3. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I'm wondering if, both sides of yours are missing, or cut off, which, i can't understand why that would be. I'm taking a wild guess, and I'm probably wrong! Just leaving three of the four hashes in the middle of the tab. Doesn't really make sense to me, you just having three hash marks! o_O
    Limestone
     
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I guess based on this, I would start from the left side and assume zero, and see how that works, assuming each hash means 2!:rolleyes:
    Limestone
     
  5.  

    Attached Files:

  6. This is whats under the trap door.
     
  7. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    mine!
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Not sure if that helps or not! Sure seems like two diff. marking systems to me!
     
  9. Well. I dont have the cool stuff like yours hahaha!!! I guess I'll keep fooling with it until it acts like its supposed to haha!!! Thanks much!
     
  10. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Be nice if someone with a unit like yours, I think, 91 Mitsubishi, can weigh in, and let you know what they set theirs at, with possibly, identical marks!
    Limestone
     
  11. I'm sure someone will see it and mention something. I got the thing running pretty decent. But now I'm beginning to think that the thermostat I replaced the original with, is not letting it warm up enough. The original thermostat had a "bubbler" in it, like the old school thermostats. The new one didn't. So I driled a 1/16 hole in the flange. And it has yet, in 5 years, to get above the first little hash mark at the beginning of normal running temp on the gage. I'm going to get a new one and replace it, only NOT drill the hole in it. And see what happens. I think it might not be letting the choke open up fully. Thus making it difficult to get the idle and timing to match, if only by ear. Thanks for your help. Ill check in from time to time and see if anyone else has a new idea or direction to go regarding the timing marks. Thanks much!!
    Joe
     
    Limestone likes this.
  12. Ok. Im back. After asking some mechanics who are smarter than me, even when they are playing dumb, they have come to the conclusion that I do not have a fuel delivery problem. But rather a electrical problem. They said start with the ignition module. As they tend to get hot inside the distributor. Replaced it. (AMAZON 15 BUCKS!! Not $144 as some would have you believe) Not it. Now, I have no spark at all. So on to the coil. Is there a replacement coil or a OEM that doesn't cost $200? All I can find is used junk. And I have plenty of that. Hahaha!!!!
    Thanks, Joe
     
  13. I THINK I FIXED IT!!! Replaced the ignition module. Not it. Replaced the coil. Not it. Replaced the ignition trigger. EUREKA!!! It seems to run pretty well even after it get up to running temp. Which, just as you might be thinking, created yet ANOTHER problem. HAHAHA!!! Very strange one at that. Its right hand drive. So, if I stand on the drivers side with the door open, and shake the truck, I noticed it begins to spit and sputter. Then, upon further messing around, I pushed up on the right side of the cab, as if I was trying to turn the thing upside down. And guess what? If I hold it there, it begins to spit and sputter. As soon as I let it down, it begins to run fine. So, I went to the passenger side (left side) and did the same thing. And it seemed to run BETTER. What in the actual he11 is going on there?
    The sump in the gas tank is on the passenger side. So this week, out comes the tank for a cleaning and thorough inspection.
    Ignition module... Napa or Amazon (J153) $15.00
    Coil.... Napa 12 volt coil (using the original bracket) $20.00
    Ignition pickup coil...Amazon $23.00.
    I have found, if you look long and hard enough and exhaust all the part numbers one might need, eventually, many of them are rather easily obtained for far less than buy parts from a dealer for 10x or more the price.
     
  14. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    How much fuel was in the tank when you did this?
    Limestone
     
    TooManyProjects likes this.
  15. Limestone
    The tank is always at least half full. I try to keep it that way, out of fear of watered down gas causing rust in the tank. I removed the fuel tank this evening. Cleaned it out as best I could. Found a few treasures in there. 2 screws and some assorted pebbles. HAHA!! But pretty clean all and all. Tomorrow night I plan to go through the rest of the fuel system to check for bad lines and such. A mechanic friend of mine mentioned, as someone else did too, it could be a float problem. Which I will be getting back in the carb as soon as I check the fuel delivery system.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  16. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Yeah, that's why I was asking! That was my next suggestion, or thought, providing your fuel level wasn't low!
    Limestone
     

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