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Timing Belt Change How To

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by Timetripper, Oct 24, 2008.

  1. Timetripper

    Timetripper Moderator

  2. dmerc

    dmerc Member

    the translation is an absolute riot!!!:D
     
  3. Timetripper

    Timetripper Moderator

    Yah, not quite Webster's Dictionairy but the pictures make up for it. :)
     
  4. Timetripper

    Timetripper Moderator

    Attached Files:

  5. Subaru

    Subaru Member

    A++++++++++:)
     
  6. Jmfeed

    Jmfeed Member

    Just replaced timing belt, seals, waterpump

    I printed out the how to gave it to my mech..He used it. No problem once you can get to it. came out good runs smooth I'm ready to put some miles on it now.
     
    NefariousYellow likes this.
  7. andy_symo

    andy_symo Member

    Just to say I have created a Google translation link to this below too as the original link doesn't seem to work properly now :)

    Subaru Sambar Timing Belt
     
  8. saxman2u

    saxman2u New Member

    How long does this take? anyone?
     
  9. RicePaddy

    RicePaddy New Member

    I recommend replacing the crank and cam seal while you are in there. K vehicles are notorious for oil leaks from these seals. Both my Susuki Wagon R and my Subaru Sanbar have had oil leaks there. I have noted the same problems on other model nearing timing belt replacement.
     
  10. Wribrinurname

    Wribrinurname New Member

    Why replace the water pump?

    Ours is at the shop now.
    Had an exhaust/emissions issue fixed and the timing belt is being done tommorrow.
    Car has 125,000 on it and the belt has never been changed.

    Im wondering how much there is to the belts letting go at 75,000 miles...............
     
  11. RicePaddy

    RicePaddy New Member

    I took me a little over three hours. That’s without replacing the water pump. I replaced the oil seals and belt and cleaned up a lot of oil mess. I would add at least one hour for the pump. I didn’t find this site until after I had replaced the parts, so it was being done without the EN07 instructions (I have had experience changing timing belts and oil seals in other Japanese cars. They are all pretty much the same).

    Removing the alternator and bracket is necessary only if you replace the water pump; if you are not replacing the water pump don’t take the bracket off.

    For Wribrinuname
    Water pump replacement is a choice. It is recommended to replace the pump while you are in there. Particularly you are paying someone to do the belt and seals. In the long run its cheaper to have the water pump done at the same time; rather than pay for someone going in there the second time when the pump fails.

    Timing belts do fail. At 125,000 yours is probably running on borrowed time, though the manufactures do add a large fudge factor on its life-expectancy just to be safe. My State-side Tercel timing belt went at 75,000. It hic-upped on day and it stopped running right, no pickup when I pressed on the gas pedal. Two days later, it hic-upped again, this time it died and wouldn’t start. It had jumped like 8 teeth with several teeth missing on the belt. That was my first experience with a timing belt. If I remember right, they were recommending replacement at 65,000 or 70,000. That was 20 years ago and belt technology has improved a lot since then.

    Luckily, the Tercel is a non-interference engine, meaning the valves don’t crash into pistons when the crank turns and the cam doesn’t. Not all engines are non-interference, meaning if the belt fails so will a lot of other parts.
     
  12. tcubed

    tcubed New Member

    I replaced the timing belt but have a question on the belt tensioner. It appears that it is designed to provide a floating spring tension on the belt, but when I tighten the tensioner bolt, it locks the tensioner in place (no longer floats). Is this normal, or could I be missing a spacer or special tensioner bolt that allows the tensioner to be tightened but still float under the influence of the spring?

    It appears that someone had replaced the belt before me. I was in there as a result of a valve job. Fair warning to those wanting to baby their Sambar with Synthetic oil. It trashed my valve seals and I had to replace them to stop the smoking after an oil change.
     
  13. RicePaddy

    RicePaddy New Member

    According to the manual you leave the tensioner bolt just lose enough so it floats then rotate the crank 4 full turns (that’s 2 revolutions of the cam) then tighten the bolt down. At that point as you stated it no longer floats. Thats the way they designed it. Several other k car/truck makers use a similar system.
     
  14. mael

    mael Member

    I did my wife's timing belt just now.

    This thread was extremely useful. Thanks.

    The job took about two hours but I could have done it in one.

    The only problem I had was that one of the 10 mm bolts on the plastic belt cover had become too rounded for any of my spanners to get purchase on and of course it was the bolt on the bottom in the middle which is the hardest to get at.

    I tried using a chisel and a hammer to see if I could knock it loose a fraction then I was going to try my tightest 10 mm sapanner on it. But the bolt came away with a little bit of the engine casing instead. Anyway when it came to putting the cover back I just slapped some glue on it so it will seal the edges and stop the dust getting in.

    I gave it a test drive and it seems OK.

    I wanted my neighbour to watch what I was doing because though I've done timing belts before, I was under supervision. This is my first time alone. However I expect he was still sleeping it off as usual and I was on my own.

    It took several throws of the ign switch to swing the spanner hard enough to loosen the pulley nut. It came loose after the fifth attempt and the last time I'd sprayed a generic WD-40 on it - which probably did the trick more than anything.

    Unfortunately I observed an oil leak on the other side of the engine - on the clutch side. I reckon I'm up for a new oil seal on the crank at that end. :( ... But I'll get an expert opinion on that, and work on that problem if needs be.

    My wife's Subaru 'transporter' (which is the Sambar basically) is soon due for a road test, so I'm getting all the jobs done so I won't have to try the test twice.

    Is there a thread on changing that oil seal on the clutch side? (He asked optimistically).:)
     
  15. captain_dc

    captain_dc New Member

    Is the timing belt on the carberated engine just a standard belt I can pick up at my local parts store?

    DC
     
  16. mael

    mael Member

    Here we just take the car registration to the parts place and they know from that.

    Maybe the Subaru isn't common where you are, so the belt might need to be ordered.

    I showed my old belt to a knowledgeable neighbour and he demonstrated how the belt probably wouldn't have lasted much more than another 10,000 kilometres. - New kei-trucks are switching back to timing chains. It seems they are less nerve-wracking.
     
  17. mikeh1975

    mikeh1975 Member

    does anyone know the subaru part codes for the oil seals?
    mine has done 81k ive got a belt and tensioner comming, but will now order me a water pump, and do the seals while its there

    mike
     
  18. fupabox

    fupabox Active Member

  19. SpikeFiend

    SpikeFiend Member

    If I change the water pump at the same time as the timing belt, do I need to drain the coolant first? Or will that just sort itself out when I take out the pump off?;)
     
  20. cbarlow

    cbarlow Member

    I'd drain it first so it doesn't make a mess when you pull off the pump
     

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