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The final governer thread...

Discussion in 'References' started by USNavy, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    I'm glad to hear you got it to work. I was startting to think I lead you down the wrong path.
     
  2. 90cushy

    90cushy New Member

    Will igniter from toyota 22r work on my 1990 cushman white truck?

    I've got a 1990 white truck I am trying to wire up. Okay, I'm very confused about this conversion process. I bought an igniter/coil for a toyota truck with a 22r engine. The igniter/coil that I bought has three connectors.

    1)black wire
    2)white(or tan?)/yellow
    3)pink/white

    A) I connected the black to the red on the distributor
    B) I connected the white coil wire (beside the yellow wire) to the green dist wire
    C) connected the pink wire to the power (+)
    D) the yellow wire from coil is not connected to anything
    E) the white wire that is beside pink is not connected to anything.

    Did I even buy the correct coil/igniter?! I hope someone knows what I am doing wrong and will let me know :confused:

    Thanks guys
     
  3. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    igniter should

    have two green connectors on it and two eyelets.
    the body of the igniter has to be grounded.
    one connector should have a red and a yellow wire. red wire to keyed power, yellow wire is not used.
    black eyelet to (-) stud on coil, red eyelet to (+) stud on coil.
    the other connector has a black and a white wire in it.
    black wire is hooked to the red wire on the dist.
    white wire is hooked to the green wire on the dist.
    bigtoejones sent me a pic but I cant find it now.
    The igniter has to be for the 1984 Toyota truck, SR5. if you need a pic its part # 7067 on Rockauto.com.
    best I can do from here.
     
  4. 90cushy

    90cushy New Member

    Thank you!

    I did have the wrong part. I finally ended up buying the one on rockauto and it worked perfectly within minutes.
     
  5. pete

    pete New Member

    rockauto don`t know about the igniter part #7067 any help on finding it?
     
  6. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    In post #14 I had the Car Quest #ECC55-1806. Thats the one I got. I can't buy from Rock-Auto at work. It was more $ but the same part.
     
  7. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    Just looked at Rock-auto. Looks like part #LX851 replaced the old #. Looks like the same part and the same 6 wires. They also don't list the SR5 truck any more, that I can find. Most be an old truck and too few left to fix.
     
  8. Quadsmitty

    Quadsmitty New Member

    I THINK I MAY HAVE BROKE THE CUSHMAN-MISTSUBIHI SPEED CENSOR CODE!
    Hi everyone. I've been trying for a year now to bypass my speed limiter on my cushman with the Mitsubishi 4g82 4cyl. Tonight I was tinkering with the little electric/magnetic thing on the backside of the speedometer. It's inside the instrument cluster inside the dash. Anyway, I disconectect it completely, the truck ran like crap. While it was idling, I accidentally touched the hot wire to the ground where the switch WAS connected. This reset the gov. for about 5seconds. So what I did was run a wire outside of the dash(from the hot and ground) and wired a horn button inline. Now when I'm driving, I need to push the button every time the gov. Kicks in. This is somehow telling the computer I'm not going over 22.5mph. If I continue to keep pushing it every 5seconds or so, I can get my "Cushy" up to 70kmh in third gear! It was redlined to the max, but I had to do it anyway! I haven't messed with unlocking 4,5 gears yet because there was no reason until I beat the speed issue. That's my next project.
    If anyone knows of some kind of relay or something I can put inline, so I don't have to keep pushing a button every 5 seconds or so, I think I've got it figured out!
     
  9. makosti06

    makosti06 New Member

    I could really use some help if anyone can. I ordered part #LX851 and this is what I got: LX660_BACK.JPG
    Is there a way to wire this up? The part is pretty much unreturnable from my failed attempt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  10. jay17

    jay17 New Member

    I picked up a igniter yesterday and from the junk yard they said it came off a 85 it has 3 green connectors and 2 ring connectors do I have the right igniter?
     
  11. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    In post #23 I have the way to hook up the wires. Heres how mine looked. coil2.jpg
     
  12. jay17

    jay17 New Member

    Thanks for the pic I have the igniter with 3 green connectors and having hard time finding the one you have so I think I found a MSD 6A box for $80 so i might go that route
     
  13. jay17

    jay17 New Member

    this is Jason again I bought a MSD 6A box today and I started with taking the computer box out beside the washer tank then I took coil off truck then mounted a tayota coil on to frame then ran the msd mag picup wires to disributor red wire to green and green to purple then hooked orange+ and black- wire to coil then hooked the big red wire to + to battery and big Black wire to -on battery then I just ran a jumper wire to the small red wire the goes to switch power to battery just to see if every thing worked it started up fine except some times the motor acts like it is a tooth of on the distibutor but I have not took the dis out and other times it starts just fine so that's got me stumped the I took it up the road and it would get up to speed the act like it ran out of gas or something but it will start right back up and every time you get up to speed it would cut out I have not messed with any fuel pump wiring or nothing just the disributor wiring Another thing I noticed is with the jumper wire hook up to the wire that goes to switch power to battery I can still cut the truck off with the key or I can cut it off by unhooking the jumper wire from the battery any Idea about why it will cut off with the key too? Anybody have any ideas?
     
  14. jwesley74

    jwesley74 New Member

    Thank you to everyone on this forum. I was able to use your suggestions and simplified the process. No need for an expensive Toyota Igniter or even change the coil. I attached pictures of what I did. I bought an ignition module for a 1978 Ford Pinto from Autozone for $28. It's simply a duraspark ignitor. I pulled the cushman module out and unplugged the factory harness (3 plugs) and cut the harness of at the cushman module. I then used 5 butt connectors and wired up in the following sequence:

    Ignition Module Purple to Harness Red
    Ignition Module Orange to Harness Green
    Ignition Module Black to harness black
    Ignition Module Red to harness purple
    Ignition Module Green to harness white

    I plugged the harness back in and governor eliminated. Runs wide open, no gov light comes on. I can run up to 40 MPH in 3rd. I still need to liberate 4th & 5th gear.

    I left the factory (cushman) coil and literally just changed the module only. Even better it took all of 20 minutes to do this for $28 and it even goes back into the same spot the cushman module was located and I used 1 screw to screw it to the same location.

    Enjoy the pics! Easier & cheaper fix than I thought.

    View attachment 13187 View attachment 13188 View attachment 13189 View attachment 13190 View attachment 13191 View attachment 13192 View attachment 13193 View attachment 13194
     
  15. jwesley74

    jwesley74 New Member

    Thank you to everyone on this forum. I was able to use your suggestions and simplified the process. No need for an expensive Toyota Igniter or even change the coil. I attached pictures of what I did. I bought an ignition module for a 1978 Ford Pinto from Autozone for $28. It's simply a duraspark ignitor. I pulled the cushman module out and unplugged the factory harness (3 plugs) and cut the harness of at the cushman module. I then used 5 butt connectors and wired up in the following sequence:

    Ignition Module Purple to Harness Red
    Ignition Module Orange to Harness Green
    Ignition Module Black to harness black
    Ignition Module Red to harness purple
    Ignition Module Green to harness white

    I plugged the harness back in and governor eliminated. Runs wide open, no gov light comes on. I can run up to 40 MPH in 3rd. I still need to liberate 4th & 5th gear.

    I left the factory (cushman) coil and literally just changed the module only. Even better it took all of 20 minutes to do this for $28 and it even goes back into the same spot the cushman module was located and I used 1 screw to screw it to the same location.

    Enjoy the pics! Easier & cheaper fix than I thought. View attachment 13195 View attachment 13196 View attachment 13197 View attachment 13198 View attachment 13199 View attachment 13200 View attachment 13201 View attachment 13202
     
  16. a_cmc_2b

    a_cmc_2b New Member

    I know this may not be the right thread, but since y'all are working on the ignition I need a Part Number for the Distributor Cap that is on a 4 Cylinder Engine in a Cushman "The White Truck". I'm not sure of the year as I don not know where or how to find that info. It does have a Distributor with the following Numbers - A4T4C71174 and I think this is the number above that one CW721840. Also any ideas on what the engine is in my Cushman? Thanks Fellows... If this information is already posted here in another thread just let me know where... Thanks Y'all!!!! View attachment 13230
     
  17. Pepegrande008

    Pepegrande008 New Member

    So i would like to revive this thread. Jwesley, do you still have pics? The old ones don't work anymore
     
  18. Pepegrande008

    Pepegrande008 New Member

    Can anyone confirm that this works? My ICM is bad and I don't want/cant find a replacement. My ICM has 10 wires coming out of it (2 for gov). I would really like to figure this out because running for 15 min then having to wait 15 min, is really annoying.
     
  19. tfent

    tfent New Member

    gov fix

    Followed the recent post by jwesley74 and plan to do the same. Couldn't get the pics to view. Any help here? Thanks. Also plan to un-block 4th &5th gears. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
     
  20. techjap

    techjap New Member

    Thank you jwesley74!! It works great!!!

    I couldn't get his pics to load either but I just followed his instructions. I went to AutoZone and asked for a Duraspark brand Igntion Control Module for a 1978 Ford Pinto and they kinda laughed at the request. Who still has a Ford Pinto?! They didn't have a Duraspark one but they did have 2 different ones -- one was about $34 (1 year warranty) and the other was about $38+tax (lifetime warranty), both in-stock suprisingly! The 2 looked very similar but more importantly they were identical as far as wiring harness colors. I bought the lifetime warranty one but either should work fine. My Cushman ICM didn't have a wiring harness that could be unplugged as it was hard wired into it so I just cut all the wires off and crimped on some insulated female terminal connectors (14/16 gauge wire) so that I could just plug into the new ICM and as a bonus since I didn't cut the new ICM wires if the ICM ever craps out I can take it back to AutoZone and use my lifetime warranty to get another one for free! I plugged my freshly crimped connectors into the new ICM following jwesley74's wiring colors, took a deep breath and fired it up -- NO MORE GOVERNOR! I think I had like 3 extra wires left over that went to the old ICM, so I just put some electrical tape on them for now. I wonder what they go to?? The new ICM was quite a bit larger but it still fit in the space used for the original. I couldn't get the screw holes to line up so I kinda wedged it in place for now. Will drill a couple new holes later.

    Thanks again jwesley74!!! You are the man! My Cushman runs so much better now! Now if I could just get 4th and 5th gears unblocked!
     

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