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The final governer thread...

Discussion in 'References' started by USNavy, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. USNavy

    USNavy New Member

    Well after much :frustration: I have found my saving grace via a DRMO "white truck" that was going to scrap if it wasnt for me.
    I now have 5 "white trucks" only I have recieved the greatest thing ever. One of these trucks iddnt have a speed limiter. After trying to figure out what was different via chasing every wire and doing all kinds of research I have come to find that the ECU is the only difference. There was 3 different ECUs from what I have read for the white trucks. If you can get your hands on a P/N 844514 it is the Rev "C". If you look at your ECU it will probly be P/N 75918G01 Rev "A". My Cushy (thats what we call them) tops out at 80 km/h or 49.71 MPH. Just a thought for you guys instead of doing the coil swap its like 4 or 5 plugs and your done.
     
  2. 1NiceCush

    1NiceCush New Member

    I seem to be a little confused here. Which part number provides the higher MPH results? Jacobsons offers part# 841824 as a replacement.... Is this the one I need to break the 24MPH zone?
     
  3. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    I think the easiest way to disable the governor is to unplug the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) off the tranny... but then you won't have a speedometer.
     
  4. 1NiceCush

    1NiceCush New Member

    Cushman Governor

    Mine is a 98 cushman White Truck 898611 with a 4G82 engine. I've been into the trans and liberated the 4th and 5th gears but the governor issue is enormous. It seems to be hooked to everything. If I can just change the governor to a different part# and get the speed it would be very helpful.
     
  5. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    Like I said the Governor can't see how fast you're going if you don't have the vss connected.
     
  6. Dan

    Dan Member

    mitsubishi is behind the governor and it is tied to everything. There is a way to bypass it but i haven't seen it done yet. I spoke with a jacobsen tech, years ago and he was sworn to secrecy and wouldn't divulge the process. I had one and installed a speedo reduction gear-box. it got us double the speed and showed half of the true speed on the dash. the truck will die after a few seconds of motion when you just un hook the speedo cable. it depends on the pulses from the reed switch in the cluster. another remedy would be a stand alone ignitor or the alternate version of the one from jacobsen/cushman.. theres a picture in my gallery of the speedo box i had built. I'm thinking it has to be as simple as clipping a ground or something but, i don't have schematics to confirm...
     
  7. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    Huh. Engine swap time I guess? :p
     
  8. nated447

    nated447 New Member

    Please tell me about what you had to do to unlock 4th and 5th. I have almost the same truck.
     
  9. RJK

    RJK New Member

    still trying to resolve the governor thing

    Recently got hold of a 2000 Cushman white truck. I've been all over the internet trying to figure out how to by-pass the governors on it. Reading your thread you mentioned th 844514 rev c ecu. mine came with one but the truck still limits the speed and RPMs. Any ideas? Thanks Ray
     
  10. NBC455

    NBC455 New Member

    Hey 1NiceCush, just checking if that was a long process to remove the lock off the 4th and 5th gears? I too have that Govenor issue like everyone else. Any ideas on that yet?

    Norm
     
  11. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    mine was easy

    just replace the coil and the igniter with parts for a 1984 Toyota truck SR5. It makes for a nice stand-alone ign system. It's controled be the keyed power and the hall effect switch, in the dist.
    The old module is in the bottom of the dumpster.:D It said Cushman 75918G01, MTI M1208, REV "A", date 0339 on it. I tried for years to get a different module but they said "none were imported". They being Cushman. I found nothing else that controls the engine speed. I unhooked the speedo but the gov/rev limiter still worked.
     
  12. NBC455

    NBC455 New Member

    jethro99,

    When you replaced the ignition system from the Toyota SR5, did that eliminate the cutting out at 25mph issue?
     
  13. NBC455

    NBC455 New Member

    Can anyone find that Jacobsen tech who supposedly knew the quick fix for disabling the govenor issue? Really, someone must know of a way to disable the govenor issue.. All help greatly appreciated!
     
    Marc Shepard likes this.
  14. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    it really works

    The van runs up to 40-45mph now with the Toyota parts in it. You have to rev the heck out of it but it runs soooo much better. IT DOESN"T CUT OUT AT ALL!!!!! The light on the dash doesn't come on, the engine just revs as high as you dare take it. I could see blowing an engine up if you didn't watch ourself. So if you get it to work, I'd unlock 4-5th gear.
    Rockauto.com has the igniter for less, part #7067, then Car Quest # ECC55-1806. Get the coil & the igniter listed for the Toy and your set. Red wire keyed (+), yellow wire leave alone, white wire on igniter to the green wire on the dist/hall switch, black wire on the igniter to the red wire on the dist/switch and your done.
     
  15. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    Jethro, you say the old module is in the dumpster. Does it have to come out in order for the toy parts to work? Where is this mod located?
     
  16. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    I used the power from the module(purple wire) to power the coil. so I just tossed the module out, unhooked it all. The module sits right under your butt on the inside body rail. between the washer tank and the inside body rail.
     
  17. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    Tried with no success

    Here is what I have and did. 1997 cushman white truck 2wd LHD.

    I pulled the REV A modual out. Spliced the purpe wire off the wire bundle and ran it to the positive on the coil. The purpe wire goes to the fuse box on the dash marked gov. The orig. coil was replaced with a mopar coil. Then I used an igniter from a 1984 toyota pick up efi. The toy igniter has two green connectors. the connector with the red and yellow wire was cut off and the red wire was connected to the positive on the coil. Yellow was left alone. The other green connector on the igniter has a black and white wire. I cut the connecter off and wired the black to the red distributer wire. The white wire from the igniter was connected to the green on the distributor wire. I have nothing attached to the negative on the coil. I turned the key and it would not start. I get 12 volts out of the igniter. Because it did not start I put a ground wire from the negative coil to the frame of the truck. This did not work either.

    I am hoping all is wired correct. Would this mean the ignitor I bought could be bad? Please help if you can cuz this gov. is driving me crazy.

    Thank you, Eric :frustration:
     
  18. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    You need to hook up the black wire from the igniter to the ground side of the coil. It should work.
     
  19. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    Best I can tell you

    The wires need to be hooked uped like this.
    Red wire(in the green connector) to keyed power, the purple wire
    Red wire with the eyelet to the (+) on coil
    black wire with eyelet to (-) on coil
    white wire from igniter to green on dist
    black wire from igniter to red on dist
    make sure you have the igniter body grounded.
    should work, mine does.
     
  20. bigtoejones

    bigtoejones New Member

    yeeeeees

    Jethro. Perfect. placed all the wires in that order and the cush has no more govenor. Thank you thank you thank you. :)
     
  21. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    I'm glad to hear you got it to work. I was startting to think I lead you down the wrong path.
     
  22. 90cushy

    90cushy New Member

    Will igniter from toyota 22r work on my 1990 cushman white truck?

    I've got a 1990 white truck I am trying to wire up. Okay, I'm very confused about this conversion process. I bought an igniter/coil for a toyota truck with a 22r engine. The igniter/coil that I bought has three connectors.

    1)black wire
    2)white(or tan?)/yellow
    3)pink/white

    A) I connected the black to the red on the distributor
    B) I connected the white coil wire (beside the yellow wire) to the green dist wire
    C) connected the pink wire to the power (+)
    D) the yellow wire from coil is not connected to anything
    E) the white wire that is beside pink is not connected to anything.

    Did I even buy the correct coil/igniter?! I hope someone knows what I am doing wrong and will let me know :confused:

    Thanks guys
     
  23. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    igniter should

    have two green connectors on it and two eyelets.
    the body of the igniter has to be grounded.
    one connector should have a red and a yellow wire. red wire to keyed power, yellow wire is not used.
    black eyelet to (-) stud on coil, red eyelet to (+) stud on coil.
    the other connector has a black and a white wire in it.
    black wire is hooked to the red wire on the dist.
    white wire is hooked to the green wire on the dist.
    bigtoejones sent me a pic but I cant find it now.
    The igniter has to be for the 1984 Toyota truck, SR5. if you need a pic its part # 7067 on Rockauto.com.
    best I can do from here.
     
  24. 90cushy

    90cushy New Member

    Thank you!

    I did have the wrong part. I finally ended up buying the one on rockauto and it worked perfectly within minutes.
     
  25. pete

    pete New Member

    rockauto don`t know about the igniter part #7067 any help on finding it?
     
  26. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    In post #14 I had the Car Quest #ECC55-1806. Thats the one I got. I can't buy from Rock-Auto at work. It was more $ but the same part.
     
  27. jethro99

    jethro99 New Member

    Just looked at Rock-auto. Looks like part #LX851 replaced the old #. Looks like the same part and the same 6 wires. They also don't list the SR5 truck any more, that I can find. Most be an old truck and too few left to fix.
     
  28. Quadsmitty

    Quadsmitty New Member

    I THINK I MAY HAVE BROKE THE CUSHMAN-MISTSUBIHI SPEED CENSOR CODE!
    Hi everyone. I've been trying for a year now to bypass my speed limiter on my cushman with the Mitsubishi 4g82 4cyl. Tonight I was tinkering with the little electric/magnetic thing on the backside of the speedometer. It's inside the instrument cluster inside the dash. Anyway, I disconectect it completely, the truck ran like crap. While it was idling, I accidentally touched the hot wire to the ground where the switch WAS connected. This reset the gov. for about 5seconds. So what I did was run a wire outside of the dash(from the hot and ground) and wired a horn button inline. Now when I'm driving, I need to push the button every time the gov. Kicks in. This is somehow telling the computer I'm not going over 22.5mph. If I continue to keep pushing it every 5seconds or so, I can get my "Cushy" up to 70kmh in third gear! It was redlined to the max, but I had to do it anyway! I haven't messed with unlocking 4,5 gears yet because there was no reason until I beat the speed issue. That's my next project.
    If anyone knows of some kind of relay or something I can put inline, so I don't have to keep pushing a button every 5 seconds or so, I think I've got it figured out!
     
  29. makosti06

    makosti06 New Member

    I could really use some help if anyone can. I ordered part #LX851 and this is what I got: LX660_BACK.JPG
    Is there a way to wire this up? The part is pretty much unreturnable from my failed attempt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  30. jay17

    jay17 New Member

    I picked up a igniter yesterday and from the junk yard they said it came off a 85 it has 3 green connectors and 2 ring connectors do I have the right igniter?
     

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