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The easiest way to...

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by 660LVPE, Nov 17, 2014.

  1. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    I have recently changed all the vacuum lines on the carb of my DD51T F6a engine. It did help a lot on idle rpm: it doesnt stutter anymore. Now it seems like the vacuum drum that advance timing on de distributor seams to leak and doesn't hold its vacuum that much. Also, i observed that my distributor timing screw is all the way FULL advance... It can't be the real setup. Now at slow accelerations, it's OK, at WOT OK as well, but when i'm on a hill and the engine is working harder, it stutters a lot= no power at all, seems like it wants to die :frustration:. Spark is good as wires, dist. cap new. I don't know if it is because some dirt blocks the jets inside the carb.

    What do you think I should do now? Can I blow my engine using it this winter?
    Is there a way to remove the carb without removing the engine? If yes, would you please explain to me how to do it?

    Much appreciation for constructive help! Thank you!
     
  2. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Have you checked the timing with a timing light? If so and it is correct, it calls for 7 deg. advanced but 9 or 10 is usually better, then you may be off a tooth on the timing belt.If you think the carb is a little dirty you might try some Sea Foam through it.Usually it's best to leave it alone unless you are sure there is something wrong.You really need to do something about the vacuum advance if it's leaking as any vac. leak is a problem with this engine. You really can't tune it with any leaks and yes you can get the carb. off without pulling the engine just be very careful about marking where everything goes and take lots of pictures.
     
  3. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    Thanks for your help. When I opened the distributor cap, I could see the vacuum advance moving a little when i was creating a vacuum with my mouth. but there is a "vacuum drum" attached to the distributor and that seems to leak a little. Also it doesn't seems to have any vacuum on the line going to that drum... where do I have to check?
     
  4. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    As I remember the vac advance line comes from one of the nipples on the intake manifold right behind the carburetor.There is a thread titled "desperately need tuning help" in the Suzuki section that shows diagrams of vac. lines and is very informative.Anyone trying to tune one of these trucks should read through that thread a couple of times.
     
  5. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    Yeah I'm reading that thread right now actually. So now I checked my spark plugs and they look white (lean)!!!! :O What screw should I adjust to correct that? Where is it placed?
     
  6. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Really really read the carb thread Jim mentioned. I read it about 500 times when I did my carb hahahaha. Also.....check to make sure your timing belt is tight. And finally.......... Check to make absolutely 100 percent positive that all your vacuum lines are going to the correct places!!! Its too easy to place them in the wrong spot, someone may have mixed them up before you bought it. That's the problem I had.............. Somebody mixed them all up.
     
  7. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    The screw in the center of the carb.throat right where it mounts to the manifold is what the manual shows as air/fuel mixture but don't expect much from it,in fact spaner says it isn't real a/f but something else.You're lucky,most of these things run rich.
     
  8. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    OK last update, since it's been 7hours working on this carb... still not perfect. As Spaner mentionned on the thread "Desperately need tuning" #44, it seems like I have 2+3 setup . SO, I went on the .ru site to find this:

    http://suzuki.epcdata.ru/carry/295_dd51t/engine/181/?full&picture=22 PLEASE HAVE A LOOK AS YOU WILL KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT.

    Now I know that the pictures shows a 3+2 setup. SO I was so confused as to how to plug the vacuum lines, that I imitated the way it is shown in the pictures. So to make sure you get what I did: I started counting #1,2,3,4,5 starting from the left of the picture. That means that, #3 was on the right of the screw, but I plugged it as shown on the picture, which is on the left of the screw.

    I started the engine (keep in mind the timing is off too, and I have no timing light at hand, so I went by ear, for now). Starts well. Revs high, doesn't come down fast. Cold Idle was dodgy. The great news is that I have no more hesitation whatsoever YEAH!!!! the down side is my idle is way to high when engine warm:frustration:. worst with lights on. The timing is on full advance, 'cause that's where it didn't stutter. I dont know much about carbs so looking at the vaccuum lines for that long, now I don't know what to rectify anymore.:confused:

    to resume: Timing full advance, no more hesitation, vacuum lines plugged as on the picture, 3k-4k idle when cold, doesn't go down when warm.
    Could you guide me through this maze please?
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  9. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    humm... if I understand correctly looking at post #47 on the "desperately need tuning" thread, I would have put the F/pr line in the Choke porting on the carb. Would that be the reason why my idle is so high? Man do I need help on this part... I am so lost...
     
  10. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Idle should be higher with lights on.Have you made sure that you have coolant flow through the carb? That's what causes the choke to open and everything to fall in to place as the engine warms up. It sure sounds like your timing belt is off a tooth or you're way too advanced and have another issue causing it to run poorly at lower rpm.It's pretty tough to figure it out long distance,all we can do is throw ideas at you but it sounds like you're getting closer.
     
  11. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Firing order.......on the distributor cap........ I wonder if the number on is in the wrong spot....... I have 3 dist caps that all have different places the plug wires plug into the cap. So.......depending on the cap I use............ I have to move my wires and retime the truck.
    Another thing........ I believe the 3/2 vacuum is mirror image of the 2/3.......... Might just have to try that. Then one more thing.......... The timed vacuum port........ It opens and or closes vacuum lines depending on if they are to work while warm or cold........ If the lines on that are mixed up it will cause the same problem you have. Mine was broke...........so I had to figure out how to make my engine run without it!!! Trust me............its a pain.............but now I swap vacuum lines when I'm winching and have constant high idle as long as I need it hahaha
     
  12. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Dang fat thumbs.......
    Number ONE on dizzy
     
  13. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    How do I know where to put #1 cylinder on distributor cap then?

    That's what I plan to try today... Also, what does F/pr stands for: Fuel pressure?

    Where is that TIMED vacuum port?
     
  14. 660LVPE

    660LVPE New Member

    ok... MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT now.. I rewired the vacuum lines properly according to spaner schematic. Starts fine, did play with idle screw a little and throttle screw as well. I took the time to readjust timing on cap distributor, so now it is less drastic as a setup. I checked the tension on the timing belt, seems ok. everything seems aligned as well. Today it is -15C outside. Cold Start it stutters a little bit but not to much... Once warm, idle is OK with a tiny hesitation during average acceleration, but less than before.:D is there an advice that you could give me so it runs a little better than it is now.. something I may have forgotten?
     
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    I really Don't have the time for this, but it may help others, SO, as you've seen; the carb vac line plumbing....
    There are two types to be considered on the DD51T, a 3+2 and a 2+3; considered from the sides of the E-test adjustment screw, from the front, bumber...to the back...transmission. I will try to make this as simple to understand as I can,

    If you have a 3+2, then the 3, the MOST FORWARD of the vac ports, is the "F" port,
    If you have a 2+3, then the 3, the MOST AFT of the vac ports, is the "F" port,

    The "F" port, runs to the "idle-up" controller at the back of the carb, and "pushes" the gizmos when vacuum is low (or about to stall/OR-NOT RUNNING-ENGINE-IS-OFF) so that the engine does not stall. When vacuum is high, and everything is running OK, the linkage is RETRACTED...SO, most of the time, the "F" port/and linkage is retracted, and out of the way. That is what you will see most of the time, and is a system that moves out of the way; this is what the "F" port is for. To get out of the way, unless, she is about to stall, and to eliminate throttle off closure after a throttle boost to eliminate back-fire, and a bunch of other system operational stuff (mechanical-adjustment-consideration---AKA-no computer).

    Just be aware, that this is the "F" port system; on a 3+2, and a 2+3....
    ALL other plumbing is the same, ALL-IS-THE-SAME,
    Like 1 forward of the CO2 screw goes to the choke (ALWAYS), and 2 forward of the CO2 screw goes to the can (ALWAYS)...etc.

    This is always the same, and there is no difference in the vac line plumbing at all, there is no difference, they are all the same, and all the lines go to the same places on all the trucks.

    Just not the "F" port...

    Understand now?...:sly:
     
    milmor88 likes this.
  16. RuggedCraig

    RuggedCraig New Member

    i have a 1995 f6a carry truck i need vacuum diagram. so i can run all the lines thanks. somehow i have fuel in vacuum system .
     

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