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Suzuki Fuel Pump Wiring

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by jliltd, Jul 19, 2007.

  1. Ron C

    Ron C New Member

    Hey guys i am new to the forum. i have the same problem as everyone else with the fuel pump relay. ( i think) i found what i believe is the relay but it is a sealed unit and the prongs are not like the one in might milts diagram. could i have the wrong relay? i have a carry 600-1990 dump truck. Thanks , Ron C
  2. Tinytoy

    Tinytoy Member

    Go back to Piterix post with the pics in it. That is the relay and this is how I checked it.
  3. Ron C

    Ron C New Member

    thanks tinytoy for your help.
  4. batmbljesse

    batmbljesse New Member

    my pump failed off road so in a hurry put a 30$ universal pump 7-15psi in worked great 2 mo and failed again replaced it and it did the same 3mo later my solution i fabed a fuel pump bracket that lowered pump 3-4 in w/inlet towards ground, this asures when fuel pump turns on its sitting in fuel w/no air bubles it has worked perfect 3yrs now and i have pushed my lil ripper so every extrem possible i cross 3-4 ft rivers rock crawl plow snow and use it for my construction biz
  5. batmbljesse

    batmbljesse New Member

    i had multiple fuel relay issues got sick of tryin to figure it out so i used starter relay activated by ignition with dash switch( to shut it off with truck on) when engine running i leave the pump on always exes fuel returns to tank, and circulates fuel better. works great since then 2yrs ago
  6. kelly

    kelly New Member

    Does the relay have anything to do with the mini trucks loosing it's power. It seems like after I shift from 3rd to 4th it looses its power. really notice it when going up hills. Thanks. PS have changed the fuel filters, checked the air filter and changed the plugs.
  7. Tinytoy

    Tinytoy Member

    The relay will allow the pump to work, or not work. That is all. 4th gear is tall. You are dealing with 38ish HP. Have you done plugs,wires and dist cap? You can have a plug wire that is grounding every once in a while or a bad cap.
  8. kelly

    kelly New Member

    This is a 1991 suzuki carry 4 speed. thanks I will try your suggestions.
  9. kelly

    kelly New Member


    Thanks for the advice changes plugs, dist cap, plug wires and rotor. runs like a new one.
  10. sugarul

    sugarul New Member

    Thank you so much..Ive been working on my little carry for 2 days now..thanks I Found this..and it works! thank you! thank you! thank you!
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  11. Tinytoy

    Tinytoy Member

    You don't have to replace the relay if you cant find one. My second relay bit the big one so now I have a 12v toggle switch that operates the pump... so far so good running with no relay.
  12. Wyothing

    Wyothing New Member

    Another issue

    I have a 2000 Carry that every couple months won't idle well. It will idle rough then quit. After a couple tries it will fire and run. But in a day or two it does it again. It is my daily driver so I park it and after a week or two, it seems to run fine again. Then a couple months later, here we are again.
    I finally figured out that if I cycle the ignition, the pump runs for a few seconds. But the problem continues. If I cycle it several times and listen for a slight change in the tone ( like it is priming), when I hear that, it will fire and run fine for a while.

    I assume this is strictly a pump problem but at $200, I don't want to miss something else and end up with an extra pump.
    Any help would be appreciated as driving the Chevy to work is just not the same.


    Attached Files:

    • 646.jpg
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  13. rwsem

    rwsem Member

    Army business got in the way of running the mini for the past 6 months. I went to crank it up and there is no audible click, click, click. I searched the threads and figure it may be a relay problem. Tore the dash apart looking for the relay w/ nothing that resembles the pictures of post #50. A few of the posts mentioned on some models, it may be under the left seat, so I looked and next to the coil, found a relay. Is this it?
    If so, which connections do I jump in order to test the fuel pump?

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Regards, Ron
  14. rwsem

    rwsem Member

    Army business got in the way of running the mini for the past 6 months. I went to crank it up and there is no audible click, click, click. I searched the threads and figure it may be a relay problem. Tore the dash apart looking for the relay w/ nothing that resembles the pictures of post #50. A few of the posts mentioned on some models, it may be under the left seat, so I looked and next to the coil, found a relay. Is this it?
    View attachment 12372
    If so, which connections do I jump in order to test the fuel pump?
    View attachment 12373

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Regards, Ron
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    I'd crank the engine and pump the gas for 15s intervals.
    Key off, crank and pump again.
    Key off.

    If you're passed that, then go to the pump. Put a volt meter between the two connections, being long enough to see when you turn the key to the on position.
    It may be as simple as a fuse, the pump may be tired, but I wouldn't jump any of the systems mid-run.
    No pwr at the pump? No fuse burn?
    Then put power to the pump, at the pump, with the key off.
    Is the pump good?
    Then note the color code in the harness, and work your way back.

    A relay is possible, but rare. But I wouldn't try to find it in that way.
  16. rwsem

    rwsem Member

    Thanks spaner- here goes, kinda long, sorry. So there I was (all good stories start like that, right?), I came inside prior to my previous post (#74) and started downloading the pictures in that post. I had to edit them to insert the text and then write the post. I posted #74 and decided to surf some more on the site. A buddy called a few minutes later and, as I was talking to him, decided to gaze out the window. As I drew near to the window I heard what sounded like a loud, rapid, tapping noise coming from the truck. I walked outside to be greeted by the aroma of fuel and a puddle of a gallon or more on the driveway, under the truck. That's right! I had left the ignition in the ON position after I took the pictures and came inside to do the above- probably 30 minutes in total. Whatever gremlin was in the fuel pump/ fuel relay circuit/ electrical system et all decided to cut lose. The battery wouldn't crank the engine, so I hooked up a jump and viola! It's running, albeit roughly. Now I can replace the fuel filter, air filter, check points and plugs, change the oil (I'm sure there's fuel in the crankcase) and filter, and make any adjustments needed to the pilot and throttle screws. I hope everything works out.
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2013
  17. hatch

    hatch Member

    One of my first posts and I would like to begin by saying thanks to all who contribute to this forum. I creep in the background reading and boy howdy, there is some good topcs and discussion on the forum. That said, I have read this entire thread from start to finish and back again..

    So here is my question I pose to you all, if anyone on here decides that their pump relay is bad, can we pick up a generic 4 prong relay and use it? It seems the cheapest relay I have found so far is upwards of $50 and I honestly believe I can purchase a bosch relay for a fraction of that but my question is if i figure out the prongs would the amps be compatible? I really do not know much about amps and such.

    Just a question i wanted to ask.

    please advise and thanks again for all the info you guys provide for us newbies.
  18. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Absolutely, yes.

    Of course, this is considered a "mod", you would agree?
    And the time to do a mod is when everything is working well. Easier to trace, easier to figure out what lines are for what.
    I suggest buying 5-prong relays all the time, then you would work with the same design all the time, and have experience, with that part at least.
    Amps are the whole reason to use a relay, and are very easy to understand.
    What is to that you are providing power to?
    A 55 watt bulb?
    55/14Vdc=4Amp use a 10Amp min no max
    2x55/14Vdc=8Amp use a 15Amp min no max

    Pretty much anything for auto application is ok for a standard 30Amp rated bosch 5-prong.
    Something like a small winch, you'd need 60Amp.

    Fuse/breaker consideration would be determined along the same lines, with less "rounding-up". You wouldn't use a 30Amp fuse for everything; because you WANT the fuse to blow. A relay, the less you tax it the better, but a bigger relay does take more power to run it...not very much though.

    I don't mind helping out if I can, and I'd be very upset if someone told me that they payed $50 bucks for a relay.
  19. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    I checked online cu'z I couldn't believe 50 bucks. I don't know where you found that price cu'z the cheapest that I could find was $100 bucks, plus shipping, plus tax, probly some duty.

    I thought maybe there is something to it, so I checked this system on mine today.
    My relay is under the left seat, taped to the main harness, right behind the windshield washer jug.
    I pulled the relay, and jumped brown with white stripe to brown. System works exactly the same.
    Ran it for 5 minutes, felt pump chug'in.
    Shut key off, no chugs.
    Key to on position, three chugs, then stop.
    Start engine, pull jumper, chugs stop, engine runs for another 30 seconds, then stalls out.
    Jumper back in, 5 chugs, crank engine, engine fires right up.

    The only difference I can see is the funny snout-type connector that is integral to the OEM relay. There is probly no other relay-integral-connector on the market like it. Suzuki only, probly.

    Just chop the connector off the harness, Bosch $5 bucks.

    Now I HAVE seen it all...
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2013
  20. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    View attachment 12372
    If so, which connections do I jump in order to test the fuel pump?
    View attachment 12373

    Any help is greatly appreciated. Regards, Ron

    The same on mine, yes. Very easy to find when it's working properly, click, click..;)
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2013
  21. hatch

    hatch Member

    Yeah most were $100 but I found a place in Oklahoma that had it for like 48 i think. I know this may be a little extra work but I picked up a $5 four prong relay and plan to make me up four 1-1.5 inch wires that i can use in order to not cut the original plug. I will put male connections on one end and female on the other and just use it that way. That way plug stays original. May be more work than its worth.
  22. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Could be,

    I'd suggest that you just pick-up a bosch connector, $2 bucks, that already has the wires with/in it; like 6" long.
    You could solder it in parallel, and run one, or the other, or both.
    Or, if you wanted, you could make up a pig tail/converter. You already have the other connector.
    Anyway you do it, its still going to be a few hours of work.
  23. hatch

    hatch Member

    You know I called my self looking for a bosch connector but couldn't find one. That is a really good Idea and i will do that
  24. rwsem

    rwsem Member

    spaner, is this the relay you used to replace the OEM? And if so, I'm guessing the center (87a) isn't wired?
    Bosch fuel pump relay.jpg
    boschrelay wiring.jpg
  25. hatch

    hatch Member

    Guys would a 40 amp relay be overkill for the fuel pump? Reason I ask is because Amazon has several relays that looks to use same exact plug as a suzuki for 5 bucks.
  26. F6A

    F6A New Member

    there is no problem using 40amp relay as long it fits on your socket
  27. rugerman

    rugerman Member

    I am having a problem with my fuel pump not firing and used this post to check what I felt was the fuel pump relay. After further inspection on my 92 carry I found what was mentioned as the fuel pump relay wired directly to the ignition coil and the distributor cap. Now I am no expert and not a know it all by any means but would someone be able to challenge me on this? The brown/black wire runs from the ignition down the harness and directly to the fuel pump, it does not stop at what was mentioned to be the fuel relay. The brown white and brown come from the ignition and run directly to this and then on to the coil. Anyone else see this like I am? From what I am seeing this has nothing to do with the fuel pump but is a coil relay. I confirmed this by shorting the relay and promptly blew the coil fuse in the box(what should happen when running this test).

    Now my problem of not having power to my pump is deeper than what I thought this thread would help me with. I have power from the ignition and past the plug-together, but not where the loom ends near the coil. Soooooo I either need to tear apart the dash or run a new wire to the pump. SO if I am correct on this the question would be is there a fuel pump relay on this truck and is it behind the dash. Time will tell.
  28. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Been down this road before. You can spend countless hrs. tracing wires and checking relays. The simple fix is to run direct off battery with inline 20amp fuse and toggle switch between seat or wire into running lights with inline 20amp fuse and be done.
    Ive pulled the dash twice on two different Suz. and wont do it again unless I get paid for it.
    Either way just look at it as a theft deterrent.
  29. Good shout lol gotta stop pressure washing the cab out I guess
  30. I'm having the same problem pump turns on for 2 seconds and shuts off... Relay?

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