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Suzuki Fuel Pump Wiring

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by jliltd, Jul 19, 2007.

  1. Mighty Milt

    Mighty Milt Moderator

    when i was a kid i had a VW bug. i wired a tach into it and strung a wire through the cab and back to the engine. as you know the pick-up wire runs to the negative side of the coil.

    one day driving along, when i would stab the throttle and the car would start to buck. when i eased into it the car revved smoothly. it took me about a week to find the problem. the pick-up wire had gotten squished between the seat and seat track.

    it was then that i came across my favorite anti-theft device. an alarm and installation was much more expensive than a toggle switch and a roll of primary wire. so in all my cars i used to interupt the tach pick-up wire to a small toggle under the seat or under the dash and over to a good ground. switch off; engine runs and tach works. switch on; the negative side of the coil is grounded and the engine will never spark with no ill effects to anything.

    anyone can pop a hood and hot wire a motor from the battery to the coil and push start it and drive off. i had heard of people that would steal VW's by pulling off a tail light lens and running a wire from the tail light bulb to the coil so the could turn the car off by turning off the lights. when they wanted to start it they would turn on the lights and push start the car.

    but, with the coil grounded they would never suspect a thing, and could try all the hot wiring shenanigans (i would have said tom-foolery but that started a riot last time) they want and never get away with my car.
     
  2. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    Just a sidenote here, as I don't believe most vehicles with carbs are wired in this fashion..

    The fuel pump will prime for a few seconds on most EFI vehicles, but require a rotational signal from the distributor to continue to pump. It's just a built-in safety mechanism to prevent the pump from pumping when it is not needed. It's easy to test (if functioning correctly).. just turn the key to the on position, and after the pump primes, remove the distributor adjusting bolt(s), and turn it from side to side. You will hear the pump kick on and off as you do. Be careful though, it is possible to kick the engine over this way.

    Not saying this is the problem, but it is a possibility. One vehicle I had which had a carb and electrical fuel pump was wired this way. An electronic pickup in the distributor is a good indication it may be wired as such.
     
  3. DarinRay

    DarinRay Member

    WOW that little relay is in a terrible position. Took dash apart and that little bugger is still in the back and you can't even get a dang screwdriver on it. :( Well back to work getting this relay out. HOPE ITS BAD NOW. :)

    Darin
     
  4. DarinRay

    DarinRay Member

    The fuel pump relay checked out when testing on the bench.. 2 powers, 1 ground, and 1 power suppy to pump. dang thing clicked then 2 secs clicked during which it sent 12V to the terminal supplying power to pump. ???? What the? So I thought I will plug the relay back in and PRESTO it worked... pump click click then off just like it was suppose to. So now I figure maybe opening relay up cleaning contacts did the trick so i put the screw holding the relay back in and though I better just check the pump again. Turned key on and nothing. :( Took relay back off and checked power going TO the relay and saw 2 terminals supplying 12V again. ???? Plugged relay back in and it worked again. Longer story shortened a bit I left the relay hanging under the dash where I can reach it from the pedal area instead of taking the darn dash apart again and so far it still works. :)

    Whats interesting too is that really the only time you need the relay to kick the pump off is if you leave the key in the one position because when it's running the pump is always clicking. I think i would of been fine just directly running power to the pump. Especially like LawnGasCaulk said. Oh well you live and TRY to learn. :)

    Darin
     
  5. Mighty Milt

    Mighty Milt Moderator


    you can always add to my rep power if you like my ideas :D... lol just glad i could help

    cheers
    milt
     
  6. DarinRay

    DarinRay Member

    Heck yeah I like your ideas for sure. I actually was looking to see how that rep power thing worked but can't figure that out either. :(
     
  7. ohms

    ohms New Member

    Fuel Fump Electrical problem of susuki carry

    The main problem of the fuel pump was the electronic circuit inside the pump especially when u buy a generic one. The circuit cannot hold the hi temp of the pump and it will burn-out. that was we will be aware of. the over heating of he pump will soon iginite the gasoline tank of the car. we must replace an original part to be safe.I nearly got an accident on this. ohmslawpc@yahoo.com.
     
    Salt likes this.
  8. What? That is the silliest thing I’ve ever heard in 40 years of being a mechanic. “The circuit can not hold the hi temp of the pump and will ignite the gasoline tank”? Come on, bad advice is dangerous advice. Fusible links would melt long before a pump could even get close to getting hot enough to do damage. The circuit on these trucks (ok, relay’s in a bad spot) is so simple any pro can trace it in a few minutes. For safety sake take it to a reputable garage and run the circuit.
     
  9. Scrumoftheearth

    Scrumoftheearth New Member

    Wiring Diag.

    I can send you a picture of the diagrams for the truck or van send me an email at newsavedone@hotmail.com
    Use windows fax and picture viewer to enlarge so you can see them.
    Where do you upload pictures on this forum?
     
  10. schlempfunkle

    schlempfunkle New Member

    Another Fuel pump:

    Replaced the relay per this thread but still sputtered to a stop after a few seconds. Ripped apart the old pump trying to get it to tick and bought a generic pump at Knecht's Auto Parts. Nothing after hooking it up. I took a full fuel filter(they've tested fine this whole time) from the back and hooked it up straight to the carb and it ran for 15 seconds on that fuel. One line to the pump reads plenty of power.


    Do I have a clogged fuel line, another fuel filter unchecked, or a new shorted pump?



    oh uh:91'carry660.
     
  11. schlempfunkle

    schlempfunkle New Member

    Another Fuel pump:

    Replaced the relay per this thread but still sputtered to a stop after a few seconds. Ripped apart the old pump trying to get it to tick and bought a generic pump at Knecht's Auto Parts. Nothing after hooking it up. I took a full fuel filter(they've tested fine this whole time) from the back and hooked it up straight to the carb and it ran for 15 seconds on that fuel. One line to the pump reads plenty of power.


    Do I have a clogged fuel line, or a new shorted pump? new pump is silent.
    n


    oh uh:91'carry660.
     
  12. The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Fast Idle Controler. It is inturn controlled by the vacuum switch next to the carb. Check your vacuum lines for holes or cracks. The fuel pump does NOT run constantly, only when the pressure drops below the pressure level. Running the pump constantly will set the system off and will shut down the pump.

    Cheers,
    Don
     
  13. schlempfunkle

    schlempfunkle New Member

    I stole some power from the wipers to get the truck to start and run it into the garage. Now I am thinking that my pump,filters, and relay are all fine. I am not convinced that this car is complicated enough to run off a vac tube, I speculate that it is off a tac sensor. either way the truck wont maintain the fuel pump after its started.
     
  14. gadgetjon

    gadgetjon New Member

    my fuel pump has been getting worse so I finally took it apart and found what looked like worn ignition points or some kind of relay inside. I've replaced it with a larger mitsubishi pump, but it doesn't have the same size hose fittings so I had to rig some adapters. Is there a generic pump that will plug right in to the fuel line? I can rewire it easily if I have to. most of the ones I'm seeing online have hard NPT fittings.
     
  15. Joe Newberry

    Joe Newberry New Member

    Had the same problem with a 91 Suz. Used universal pump from A***zone, the lowest p.s.i. pump, came with small metal filter in inlet side. Used one of the bracket bolts and re-routed the lines a little. Use test light to find (+) other wire is the (-) . Has been a year and still working great. Hope this helps.:)
     
  16. schlempfunkle

    schlempfunkle New Member

    Bypassed fuel pump controller

    Instead of really finding the problem I bypassed the pump controller. After checking the fuel pump, wiring, and replacing the relay it still didn't work. So I bypassed whatever controlled the fuel pump by stealing some power from the wiper's hot line. works for now but is still missing some top end.

    My symptom was the pump would run for 3 seconds after the key was turned to the on position then would go silent.


    Anyone know where and what tells the relay for the fuel pump to turn on is?


    I also replaced my pump with a generic one from a generic auto parts store. knects i think

    http://picasaweb.google.com/grossnickle/Carry?feat=directlink
    http://picasaweb.google.com/grossni...authkey=Gv1sRgCKzx37rynuyI_QE&feat=directlink
    I cant seem to get my pictures to embed. Here is a link to my picasa web album

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    Last edited: Jul 1, 2009
  17. odeb1956

    odeb1956 New Member

    92 Suzuki mini truck 660 wiring diagrams

    Hello
    We were following this forum & are wondering if you could send us a copy of the wiring diagram??
    I am not having any luck finding any...we have a 92 suzuki truck down & we need help with it....
    thanks
    deb
     
  18. I just purchased every mini truck manual from lulu.com and had them sent to lab doing our certification testing. You may want to check it out and just purchase a manual for your truck that way you can always have a reference. They were pretty cheap also, I think I paid 200.00 for all of them.
     
  19. jefro

    jefro New Member

    Lemme chime in with some safety info. Dunno about suzuki but many cars and trucks that have electric fuel pumps also have a roll over or crash sensor. There maybe be some connection to this issue in this thread. Be sure you don't remove or bypass such a sensor.

    I also agree about some engines that need a crank sensor but most of these type of fuel pumps have an internal pressure sensor that allows for a set amout of pressure. I'd be unlikely to think there is a vacuum control that is part of the fuel pump. From what I see, the pump is a generic fuel pump with an internal pressure regulator. The max psi would be a function of the design and more important would be if carb or inject. A carb can only stand low pressure. EFI's usually go higher but are more range specific but also normally have a regulator near the throttle body or intake, along with a return.


    Basically the point is, if you bypass any safety item and do turn over the pump may continue to run.

    I saw a lot of these trucks when I lived in Japan. While I can speak common Japanesse I can not read Kanji or Katakana.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2009
  20. Mr. Sparkle

    Mr. Sparkle Member

    93 Suzuki

    Hi,

    Anyone one know where the relay is on a 93 Carry. I dug around a bit and couldn't find it. I just what to change my fuel filter and I understand that one needs to disconnect the relay or fuse first (I found no fuse labeled as such).

    Thanks for any help.
     

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