One of our Suzuki Carrys is having an electrical glitch that's affecting the fuel pump. No pump, no go. It's a 1990 model 600cc. Ground lead tests good continuity to ground. Can't get power on the positive lead. Does anybody know if the power lead to the fuel pump come directly off the ignition switch ignition circuit or is there a relay in between? How about a fuse? Is there such a thing as electrical schematic diagrams or the like for these? It's driving us crazy. Got the whole dashboard out and gutted trying to chase wires and it's a major pain for one little item. Believe it or not, of all our Suzuki's this 1990 is the oldest and tightest of the bunch. It seems to drive and ride the best with plenty of pickup and go. We just can't let it go it's so much fun. Once again we have proved to ourselves many of the oldies are the goodies.
There is a relay located under the dash. They sometimes go bad & need replaced. There also is a fuse. There is not a manual or diagram in English but we are working on getting them translated. Nice truck in great shape. mike
I had two of them shipped to me pump did not work. One of them I had to redo the two ground wires under the from bumper. The other one the relay under the dash had water in it from pressure washing. Took it out blew it out with compressed air and all was good. Todd
fuel pump relay i just bought a 1990 suzuki caRRY and it ran fine for 2 days then the fuel pump stopped working sometimes. At first i just restarted the truck and that seemed to reset things for a while but then it would shut down again. I could hear the pump ticking when it was working ,but no sound when it wasnt working and the truck would die. I noticed a clicking sound under the dash that would click when the ignition was activated, run the pump for 2 seconds and then turn it ff if you didnt start the car. This is a safety relay that is supposed to turn on the pump(and off) I took the relay out and open the plastic case. It looked fine so i banged it on the desk lightly and blew some air into it and re-installed it. Car now works fine goin on 2 weeks. ________ SUZUKI KATANA HISTORY
Need help with Fuel Pump I am having fuel pump problems on my 1992 Suzuki. I have unplugged the pump and jumpered 12V from the battery and the pump will not run (just a big spark! ). Also, when I check the wires going to the pump (at the plug that I disconnected) there is no voltage, with the key switch on. Has anyone replaced their pump with a generic 12V electric fuel pump? Can someone give me details about the electrical supply to the fuel pump. Is there a fuse and/or relay? Where are they located? Any troubleshooting tips? I have an English manual ordered, waiting for it to arrive. Thanks!
JR, sounds like your fuel pump has died and has become a direct short, probably blowing a fuse or cooked a relay and that is why you do not have 12V to the pump with the key on.Take the pump off the truck, then attach 12V to it from your battery.Take a 12V testlight and put the clamp on the negative terminal of the battery,then touch the housing of the pump with the probe end,I am betting you will see the testlight light up.You can also use an Ohmmeter, but more people probably have a 12V testlight than a multimeter.
DRW, Thanks for the reply. I have put 12V to the pump from the battery, with it still on the truck. Did not run, just a big spark. I will remove the pump and check it with a multimeter. (I don't have a testlight...) Do you know where the fuse or relay may be located. There is not a blown fuse in my fuse block. And I have not been successful in tracing the wiring....yet. Any and all suggestions are helpful!
JR, the fuse box is on the left side of the steering column under the dash, pretty easy to see, I do not know where the fuel pump relay is or if one is actually used.The amp demand may not be enough to require one.
Anyone else have any info on the fuse and/or relay on a Suzuki fuel pump? Why do you think these fuel pumps seem to fail? Could our gas be different (I know the gas that was in the trucks after shipping smelled VERY different from US gasoline!), not as much lubricity? Just wondering.
JR, I did not have much time last night, but I did notice that I can turn the ignition to run and you can hear the fuel pump working and when it stops there is a click coming from behind the instrument cluster area like a relay de-energizing.I did this several times and got the same results.Not much help I know.
Can anyone give me the exact location of the fuel pump relay on a 1992 Carry? I have a wiring diagram that shows a relay, but have not had any luck locating it!
Has anyone found the fuel pump relay? I have located the fuel cutoff relay looking through the brake reservoir opening in dash but not the fuel pump relay itself??? I have all the manuals but nowhere does it tell the location of relay. AWESOME BOOKS FOR SURE THOUGH http://www.lulu.com/content/2343144 but I still need help. Yeah I know I'm not the brightess bulb. Darin
Its black, has one screw attachment. Has a coupler with four wires. Do not know the year of your vehicle but 90% is take out the speedo head and look left. About 6 inches to left of the removed speedo head. There were a few models that had it under the left set next to the coil. Br, Don
Thank you for the reply Don. This model is a 1992 and actually did find a relay under the left seat but actually had the wrong wire colors to be the fuel pump relay I think. ??? I hear the vacuum switch being activated next to the carb but now need to see if the relays are working. There was NO continuity between any of the leads on the relay ( 4 terminals ) in the left seat compartment but don't really know how to check to see if a relay is bad. Question: Can I just hook up power full time to the fuel pump and not damage anything? Darin
on most relays there will be a very simple scematic on the box, not all but most. here is a good diagram of the most commonly used bosch relay and one of my personal favorites. i have used these for everything from anti-theft kill switches to revlimiters to off-road lights and so on. Internal Workings of Bosch relay: The following diagram shows what those external terminals are connected to on the inside of the relay. When there is no difference of potential (voltage) across terminals 85 and 86 (the coil), the relay's movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87a (the normally closed contact). In other words, when no voltage is applied the the relay coil, terminal 87a is connected to terminal 30. When 12 volts is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86), the movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is pulled down/in by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically contacts the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87. Again, in other words, if battery voltage is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86) terminal 30 will be connected to terminal 87. The red dashed line shows the path in which electrical current flows from/through terminal 30 to the contact of terminal 87a when the relay coil is NOT energized. .
Bravo and thank you for the information. Great details and pics. So really then on this relay with no schematic it should have continuity yes? At least across the coil which ever terminals that is. ?? I wonder if I can put a similar relay (4 prong) where this one is? Or just run power full time to pump. HMMMMM what do you think. darin
if you want to run full power to the pump, just add a simple inline fuse to it from a keyed hot wire... as an additional anti-theft feature you could always put a small switch in the cab from the battery. if someone had the inclination to steal your truck they could crank on it all day but without flipping that switch they would never have fuel. sure, you would be pissed when you came out in the morning to a truck with a dead battery, but you would still have a truck
Dang I think you may have just made everyone's brains go... Wow that is a GREAT idea for fixing problems and also a bonus of added security. Thanks again. Darin
when i was a kid i had a VW bug. i wired a tach into it and strung a wire through the cab and back to the engine. as you know the pick-up wire runs to the negative side of the coil. one day driving along, when i would stab the throttle and the car would start to buck. when i eased into it the car revved smoothly. it took me about a week to find the problem. the pick-up wire had gotten squished between the seat and seat track. it was then that i came across my favorite anti-theft device. an alarm and installation was much more expensive than a toggle switch and a roll of primary wire. so in all my cars i used to interupt the tach pick-up wire to a small toggle under the seat or under the dash and over to a good ground. switch off; engine runs and tach works. switch on; the negative side of the coil is grounded and the engine will never spark with no ill effects to anything. anyone can pop a hood and hot wire a motor from the battery to the coil and push start it and drive off. i had heard of people that would steal VW's by pulling off a tail light lens and running a wire from the tail light bulb to the coil so the could turn the car off by turning off the lights. when they wanted to start it they would turn on the lights and push start the car. but, with the coil grounded they would never suspect a thing, and could try all the hot wiring shenanigans (i would have said tom-foolery but that started a riot last time) they want and never get away with my car.
Just a sidenote here, as I don't believe most vehicles with carbs are wired in this fashion.. The fuel pump will prime for a few seconds on most EFI vehicles, but require a rotational signal from the distributor to continue to pump. It's just a built-in safety mechanism to prevent the pump from pumping when it is not needed. It's easy to test (if functioning correctly).. just turn the key to the on position, and after the pump primes, remove the distributor adjusting bolt(s), and turn it from side to side. You will hear the pump kick on and off as you do. Be careful though, it is possible to kick the engine over this way. Not saying this is the problem, but it is a possibility. One vehicle I had which had a carb and electrical fuel pump was wired this way. An electronic pickup in the distributor is a good indication it may be wired as such.
WOW that little relay is in a terrible position. Took dash apart and that little bugger is still in the back and you can't even get a dang screwdriver on it. Well back to work getting this relay out. HOPE ITS BAD NOW. Darin
The fuel pump relay checked out when testing on the bench.. 2 powers, 1 ground, and 1 power suppy to pump. dang thing clicked then 2 secs clicked during which it sent 12V to the terminal supplying power to pump. ???? What the? So I thought I will plug the relay back in and PRESTO it worked... pump click click then off just like it was suppose to. So now I figure maybe opening relay up cleaning contacts did the trick so i put the screw holding the relay back in and though I better just check the pump again. Turned key on and nothing. Took relay back off and checked power going TO the relay and saw 2 terminals supplying 12V again. ???? Plugged relay back in and it worked again. Longer story shortened a bit I left the relay hanging under the dash where I can reach it from the pedal area instead of taking the darn dash apart again and so far it still works. Whats interesting too is that really the only time you need the relay to kick the pump off is if you leave the key in the one position because when it's running the pump is always clicking. I think i would of been fine just directly running power to the pump. Especially like LawnGasCaulk said. Oh well you live and TRY to learn. Darin
Heck yeah I like your ideas for sure. I actually was looking to see how that rep power thing worked but can't figure that out either.
Fuel Fump Electrical problem of susuki carry The main problem of the fuel pump was the electronic circuit inside the pump especially when u buy a generic one. The circuit cannot hold the hi temp of the pump and it will burn-out. that was we will be aware of. the over heating of he pump will soon iginite the gasoline tank of the car. we must replace an original part to be safe.I nearly got an accident on this. ohmslawpc@yahoo.com.
What? That is the silliest thing I’ve ever heard in 40 years of being a mechanic. “The circuit can not hold the hi temp of the pump and will ignite the gasoline tank”? Come on, bad advice is dangerous advice. Fusible links would melt long before a pump could even get close to getting hot enough to do damage. The circuit on these trucks (ok, relay’s in a bad spot) is so simple any pro can trace it in a few minutes. For safety sake take it to a reputable garage and run the circuit.
Wiring Diag. I can send you a picture of the diagrams for the truck or van send me an email at newsavedone@hotmail.com Use windows fax and picture viewer to enlarge so you can see them. Where do you upload pictures on this forum?
Another Fuel pump: Replaced the relay per this thread but still sputtered to a stop after a few seconds. Ripped apart the old pump trying to get it to tick and bought a generic pump at Knecht's Auto Parts. Nothing after hooking it up. I took a full fuel filter(they've tested fine this whole time) from the back and hooked it up straight to the carb and it ran for 15 seconds on that fuel. One line to the pump reads plenty of power. Do I have a clogged fuel line, another fuel filter unchecked, or a new shorted pump? oh uh:91'carry660.