I really only needed to trim the tops if I remember right. You can hold it up to the mount or the old shock and see how much. Its just 1/8 or 1/4 in or so on each side I think.
My right rear brake wheel cylinder is leaking fluid now. I'm searching for crossover parts right now and will update my brake thread with the details https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/sourcing-local-parts-for-brakes.22603/
When I added the extra spring on the Nibbi carn I also disconnected and removed my choke cable since it was a cheapie and I didn't think it was retracting the choke all the way. Now that we have a real winter, I miss my choke. So I found a better replacement cable to use. I'll post pics of t he install once I get it on there but this is what I got, its a about 2x the price of the last one but it has a teflon lining, ,fully greased up, the end already has a bent guide on it with needed ferrule already attached to the cable. Its also long enough to reach from the console of the van to the carb on the engine at the back. https://www.amazon.com/CLINK-UTV700-MASSIMO-YARDSPORT-SUPERMACH/dp/B09WXSJB9B
I installed the choke cable. I used a remote choke kit I had purchased earlier on amazon. I had to slightly drill out the ferrule on the remote choke to that the cable end would sit in itbut other than that and make the hole bigger where I mounted the choke it was an easy install. It works really smoothly and has to be held up to start and then you can let go and give it some gas to keep it running until it starts to warm up a bit. This the remote choke thingy that fits the Nibbi PWK carb I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z9S7S This is the choke pull install in my console where I feed it down the same opening used for t he ebrake cable. Just pushed it through until it popped out the bottom. Then applied some vaseline to the cable and pulled the rest down. This is the cable end install into the carb remote choke.
I replaced my door mirrors with golf cart mirrors from amazon for $12.00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1AC46M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 I made small plate from black aluminum flashing I cutout to got under the mirror mount to cover the hole the OEM mirrors have under there for when electric mirrors are installed ( I did not have electric mirrors). I then mounted them up. They don't tilt back as far as I would like but that can be fixed by trimming the back of the mount or modding the mount holes. They seem to be good and tight and for the price I can replace them whenever they break or wear out.
I may have to do this with my mirrors. I have a 3D printer and can model up something to go in between (where you used flashing) because I hate those floppy OEM mirrors. The passenger one always gets in the way while Im walking around in the garage and re-aligning it is a pain in the butt.
Drove it a bit and notice the mirrors do vibrate a bit but not enough to impede a useful view and that was when driving over 50 mph. The driver side doesn't adjust enough tilting back so that I get a good view further down the side of the van. I can see the immediate side view ok but it cuts off at the top where I would be able to see down the lane further. If I lower by head a bit I get the view I want. The passenger side is fine though. I may take the drive side apart and see what I can do to get it to tilt back a bit further. I only need another 5 degrees or so I think.
So, the van needs to get the clutch serviced. I've been noticing slipping if I put into 3rd or 4th gear at a low rpm and the engine revs unevenly until it gets up to speed. Definitely get a pressure plate, clutch disk, throw out bearing and pilot bearing (if it uses one). Also will look into getting the rear wheel hub bearings too. I may reinforce the 3 engine/tranny mounts rubber with some 3M urethane window sealant as well. Obviously I will repack the CV joints and replace rubbers on those. I'm wondering if this RockAuto GEO Metro clutch kit will work. I know t he disk fits but that pressure plate and TO bearing look like they would work too. Its less than $100.00 depending on vendor selected which is 1/3 the cost for the AISIN clutch kit from Japan. Maybe I don't need the pressure plate and could just grab the TO and pilot bearing and disk for cheap to try it out. Stay tuned to see if we can use more cheapo parts to maintain the van.
Good call on that. Looking at Rockauto .... the Exedy 04124 looks identical to the ones I see in the Japan catalogs. If yours is 6-3/4 diameter with 18 splines, the clutch kits from a 993cc Metro might fit. Keep us posted!
I read on a post here earlier that the Metro disc should fit but have not found any write ups on doing a 2WD van clutch. I guess I'll be the pioneer and get the arrows on this one. I assume I will have to pull the axles out due to the CV ends being in the tranny so I can get the tranny off and do the work.
Found this how to on a GEO forum for doing a clutch job. It answers a lot of questions I had. Very useful and many pages. https://geometroforum.com/manual-trans-removal-clutch-guide-t14.html
