The Highway safety standards don’t drop of until 25-years from date of manufacture. So, if it was a 97 it would not have been safety exempted until 2022.
Well the paper work says 95, so I guess thats the determining factor. Not sure how accurate the serial number reference really is anyway.
Someone asked about mileage with the Nibbi carb on there. At first it was getting about 15-17 mpg and running pretty rich across the rpm range. I did some tuning in the early fall and its running leaner now and getting about 20-24 mpg in the city. Haven't been on any really long drives yet (enough to empty a tank doing ~50+ mph over a long stretch) but I expect it will be a little higher then. I also noticed now that it's cold weather that starting when its below 40F takes a lot of cranking without the choke on and pulling the choke it will start up ok. Heres what I noticed though, if it's that cold and I had recently (within the last 2 days or so ran it) then it will crank right up with no choke. If I let it set too long, then it will be a crank fest or using the choke to get it going. My guess is that the compression is good for a few days after running due to oil/fuel trapped in the rings but once it sits for awhile, that drains down and the compression is less. So cranking it for awhile will eventually rewet the cylinders and it will fire up again. Sure the engine is a bit tired but man these little engines are tuff.
That was with the lowering springs that came on it from Japan. They were very harsh and have since then changed them to something closer to stock. Much better ride. Also did the shocks all around as well. Welcome to the forums!
Yeah, I’m looking at getting coil overs and shocks. if you have any insight and resources that be great. I’m definitely new to all this Japanese parts and resourcing So any help I can get would be greatly appreciated
Some threads I have started: https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/a-way-to-decode-the-suzuki-vin-frame-number.21436/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/geo-metro-parts-crossover.21499/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/suzuki-every-van-progress.21475/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/replacing-oem-suzuki-radio.21762/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/change-your-transmission-oil.22342/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/sourcing-local-parts-for-front-brakes.22603/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/sourcing-local-parts-for-tierod-ends.22632/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/adding-a-hitch-to-suzuki-every.24420/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/suzuki-every-carb-swap.24819/
Hi all, 1996 Every owner here. AC, 5 speed, 4WD. Fun little van for sure! I recently blew an alternator belt while driving and made it home quick…without the belt… I’ve been searching and reading the forums but have not had any success finding a part number for a local parts store belt. I know it’s a four rib belt but that is all I’ve found on here so far. Anybody happen to know a part number and/or location where one or two can be found? Thanks in advance! Jerry in Arkansas
@SandnSun I got mine at the local Oriellys but didn't document the part number here in the thread. I'll look it up and see what I got since I saved the old belt in the new ones box. I'll post up later today with the size I got.
@SandnSun The belt I got was a 4K325 4 rib serpentine belt, that number is the standard part number for the belt. At O'Riellys it was part number K040325 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rib-33-3-16-inch/mbh0/k040325?q=K040325&pos=0
I too have been having starting problems recently. I'd like to check the starter solenoid first. However, I am having trouble locating it? Could you help me identify it in my 1991 Suzuki Every 660? Thanks a million.
So the 91 is different from the 96 from what I have learned recently. The early 90s Everys have the engine under the front seats (not sure if this is always the case or only for 4wd vans). The starter will be on the transmission bell housing and the solenoid should be mounted on it
So my passenger side mirror was really floppy. So I took it apart and discovered the plastic clamp in the inside had split. So I took JBWeld to it, put it all beck together and its better but I can't tighten enough to keep is from floppy at 100kph or higher. Annoying and that mirror I use the most too. Today after reading some other struggles folks have had and how they dealt with it, I decided to drill a small hole at the area where the ball is located. Then I adjusted the mirrors where I wanted them and tightened the screw down. Seems to have fixed the issue, it doesn't move at all easily. Yes it makes it less adjustable but fixes the droopy issue. Eventually I'd like to get some large california style mirrors in chrome but those rarely come up for sale in Japan.
Ill have to do something similar to mine. I also have the dreaded cracked ball where no amount of tightening will get it to sit still.
Welcome to the forum. Vans are the best! Add your year/make/model to your signature so we can help you better.
I just flushed and bled the brakes with fresh fluid and adjusted the rear drum brakes because the auto adjusters are not so auto. Made a huge difference in the brake feel. The old brake fluid was brown and nasty looking, fresh is always better.
I have that on my maintenance list. Will likely upgrade hoses with the Esteem ones you found to be compatible, and evaluate if a caliper/rotor upgrade is deemed necessary. This week ill be knocking out the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, AC/Alt belts, and the two seals if those need replacement.
I was able to find new mirrors on 500yenshop.com but they are ~$24.00 each plus getting them shipped over. I need to see if there are some other Japanese only things I need to order before I pull the trigger on the mirrors.
Short update on the van. When I run the van hard on really hot days (>90F) and use the AC it will have a hard time starting after being shutoff. For instance, I go to the store, run in and out in about 20 minutes, crank crank. It will finally sputter to life and after it clears out runs fine again. If I don't use the AC, it doesn't exhibit this behavior. So my theory is the AC components get hot enough and are somewhere close enough to the fuel delivery system that the gas is boiling until fresh gas pushes thru. By then the engine gets flooded and crank crank. So I have some investigating to do there. One thing I may do is reconnect the water lines to the intake manifold. JDM cars always seem to use a water jacket in the intakes to keep the intake charge a fairly constant temp and to help ensure a quick warm up. I suspect one of the AC charge pipes is near a gas line since I swapped in the Nibby carb. Anyway, thats all the excitement with the van lately. Love the AC when its needed.
