The Highway safety standards don’t drop of until 25-years from date of manufacture. So, if it was a 97 it would not have been safety exempted until 2022.
Well the paper work says 95, so I guess thats the determining factor. Not sure how accurate the serial number reference really is anyway.
Someone asked about mileage with the Nibbi carb on there. At first it was getting about 15-17 mpg and running pretty rich across the rpm range. I did some tuning in the early fall and its running leaner now and getting about 20-24 mpg in the city. Haven't been on any really long drives yet (enough to empty a tank doing ~50+ mph over a long stretch) but I expect it will be a little higher then. I also noticed now that it's cold weather that starting when its below 40F takes a lot of cranking without the choke on and pulling the choke it will start up ok. Heres what I noticed though, if it's that cold and I had recently (within the last 2 days or so ran it) then it will crank right up with no choke. If I let it set too long, then it will be a crank fest or using the choke to get it going. My guess is that the compression is good for a few days after running due to oil/fuel trapped in the rings but once it sits for awhile, that drains down and the compression is less. So cranking it for awhile will eventually rewet the cylinders and it will fire up again. Sure the engine is a bit tired but man these little engines are tuff.
That was with the lowering springs that came on it from Japan. They were very harsh and have since then changed them to something closer to stock. Much better ride. Also did the shocks all around as well. Welcome to the forums!
Yeah, I’m looking at getting coil overs and shocks. if you have any insight and resources that be great. I’m definitely new to all this Japanese parts and resourcing So any help I can get would be greatly appreciated
Some threads I have started: https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/a-way-to-decode-the-suzuki-vin-frame-number.21436/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/geo-metro-parts-crossover.21499/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/suzuki-every-van-progress.21475/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/replacing-oem-suzuki-radio.21762/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/change-your-transmission-oil.22342/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/sourcing-local-parts-for-front-brakes.22603/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/sourcing-local-parts-for-tierod-ends.22632/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/adding-a-hitch-to-suzuki-every.24420/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/suzuki-every-carb-swap.24819/
Hi all, 1996 Every owner here. AC, 5 speed, 4WD. Fun little van for sure! I recently blew an alternator belt while driving and made it home quick…without the belt… I’ve been searching and reading the forums but have not had any success finding a part number for a local parts store belt. I know it’s a four rib belt but that is all I’ve found on here so far. Anybody happen to know a part number and/or location where one or two can be found? Thanks in advance! Jerry in Arkansas
@SandnSun I got mine at the local Oriellys but didn't document the part number here in the thread. I'll look it up and see what I got since I saved the old belt in the new ones box. I'll post up later today with the size I got.
@SandnSun The belt I got was a 4K325 4 rib serpentine belt, that number is the standard part number for the belt. At O'Riellys it was part number K040325 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rib-33-3-16-inch/mbh0/k040325?q=K040325&pos=0
I too have been having starting problems recently. I'd like to check the starter solenoid first. However, I am having trouble locating it? Could you help me identify it in my 1991 Suzuki Every 660? Thanks a million.
So the 91 is different from the 96 from what I have learned recently. The early 90s Everys have the engine under the front seats (not sure if this is always the case or only for 4wd vans). The starter will be on the transmission bell housing and the solenoid should be mounted on it
So my passenger side mirror was really floppy. So I took it apart and discovered the plastic clamp in the inside had split. So I took JBWeld to it, put it all beck together and its better but I can't tighten enough to keep is from floppy at 100kph or higher. Annoying and that mirror I use the most too. Today after reading some other struggles folks have had and how they dealt with it, I decided to drill a small hole at the area where the ball is located. Then I adjusted the mirrors where I wanted them and tightened the screw down. Seems to have fixed the issue, it doesn't move at all easily. Yes it makes it less adjustable but fixes the droopy issue. Eventually I'd like to get some large california style mirrors in chrome but those rarely come up for sale in Japan.
Ill have to do something similar to mine. I also have the dreaded cracked ball where no amount of tightening will get it to sit still.
Welcome to the forum. Vans are the best! Add your year/make/model to your signature so we can help you better.
I just flushed and bled the brakes with fresh fluid and adjusted the rear drum brakes because the auto adjusters are not so auto. Made a huge difference in the brake feel. The old brake fluid was brown and nasty looking, fresh is always better.
I have that on my maintenance list. Will likely upgrade hoses with the Esteem ones you found to be compatible, and evaluate if a caliper/rotor upgrade is deemed necessary. This week ill be knocking out the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, AC/Alt belts, and the two seals if those need replacement.
I was able to find new mirrors on 500yenshop.com but they are ~$24.00 each plus getting them shipped over. I need to see if there are some other Japanese only things I need to order before I pull the trigger on the mirrors.
Short update on the van. When I run the van hard on really hot days (>90F) and use the AC it will have a hard time starting after being shutoff. For instance, I go to the store, run in and out in about 20 minutes, crank crank. It will finally sputter to life and after it clears out runs fine again. If I don't use the AC, it doesn't exhibit this behavior. So my theory is the AC components get hot enough and are somewhere close enough to the fuel delivery system that the gas is boiling until fresh gas pushes thru. By then the engine gets flooded and crank crank. So I have some investigating to do there. One thing I may do is reconnect the water lines to the intake manifold. JDM cars always seem to use a water jacket in the intakes to keep the intake charge a fairly constant temp and to help ensure a quick warm up. I suspect one of the AC charge pipes is near a gas line since I swapped in the Nibby carb. Anyway, thats all the excitement with the van lately. Love the AC when its needed.
This is the top of the sliding door mount just below the lock button and you can see the windows behind it. Not much clearance there. This is the mounting of the actuator in the sliding door. It has to be at that angle to clear the window when its completely rolled down. Also had to bend the actuator rod some to get it to mate up with the lock button rod in the previous pic. This is the acuator mounted in one of the front doors. Again clearance with the windo all the way down is critical. I mounted the controller up on top of the air duct work up behind the glove box. The wires are ran to each front door along the same path as the speaker wires. The wires for the rear sliders goes under the sill of each door and then up into the B pillar, entering by the restractor for the seats belts. Anywho, I hope this helps folks understand how to install these things a little better. Someone was asking about the remote lock installation. These are some pics of it for anyone interested.
OK, so here’s the situation with my van. Last week I topped off my coolant and got all the air bubbles out put the old temperature sensor back in and the temperature stayed at a normal level and consistent for the next week and a half fan went on no problem now this morning, the fan has gone on, but after warming up the car in the morning The temperature as soon as I put it into reverse or drive the temperature shot up when I would put it in park, it would go back to normal temperature. I drove it 10 miles with the heat fluctuating between almost middle to high. I parked the car and everything went back to normal level but as soon as I put it in drive and push the gas a little bit it the temp would shoot up What could be the main cause of this. Also keep in mind my power steering which is electric has gotten stiff and then got really loose where it was nice and easy to turn and then at times it would be a little bit difficult to turn, but not where I had no power at all.
So at idle it handles the heat fine but under load it runs a bit hot and fluctuates. On my van it sits steady at 1/2 way on the gauge which is normal for my van. Is the fan turning off? If t he fan runs while the van is moving it will likely impede the cooling. Also jack that front end up about a foot or so and rebleed, you may have bubble still. Another thing thats handy is an infrared thermometer. You can use it to point at stuff and see if the temps are reasonable or jacked up in some manner.
Hot start issue with AC usage is no longer a mystery. When I installed the regulator, the input hose is laying up against the 2 AC hoses which get pretty hot when AC is used. So will have to replumb that a bit to get the hoses away from the AC lines. See the pic below, the input line touches the AC lines. Also have extra springs now to put on the Nibbi carb slide and see if that fixes the sticky slide.
Well, put the extra spring on and sure enough, the throttle stopped sticking. I could feel the extra effort on the gas pedal but it drove quite civilized without the extra revving from being stuck. Excited to see how that translates to fuel mileage.
I just filled up with gas and already saw my mileage go from ~20 mpg to almost 24mpg and that was with part of the mileage not using the extra spring to fix the hanging idle. I suspect it will be a bit higher at next fillup.
I just purchased the struts for the rear that you did. You said you had a trim off the rubber on both sides and the sleeve you mean top and bottom how much did you end up taking off?
