I'm posting this thread because, 1) I am not a mechanic and know just the basics about car / engine maintenance and repair, 2) I had A LOT of problems finding the information required to perform what should be a relatively straightforward task (plus watch many videos that didn't quite do the job), and 3) I performed A LOT of trial and error to complete this task - I had run to AutoZone like 6 times and it took almost 5 hours to complete, what should have been closer to 1 hour job. Please let me know if I've overlooked something, but here goes the diatribe. Tools As with most projects, having the right tools, materials and equipment is critical - needless to say, I only had some of them, because I had no idea what I needed beforehand. 1) Nitrile work gloves - my knuckles and skin wished I was more diligent in wearing constantly (I'm an idiot) 2) Flathead / Philips Screwdriver - varying lengths can be helpful based upon your configuration. 3) Ratchet set with multiple extenders (Duralast 62-100) - 3/8" dr, 1 1/2" and 2 ea. - 3" extenders were required to work around and get into some of the places. 4) Ratchet universal joint (Duralast 52-100) - 3/8" dr. You NEED this to get the third spark plug out and work around some of the existing parts. 5) Sockets - 10 mm (for the removal of the metal air pipe) and 5/16" for hose clamps. 6) 13/16" Magnetic Spark Plug Socket - critical piece and this is the right one! I bought all of them, as I had no idea what the actual spark plug size actually was. Parts 3 ea. - NGK BPR7ES (5534) Spark Plugs - boy I wish I had known this beforehand (two trips to auto parts store for these guys). Overview Big picture, the F6A engine for the Every 660 has three spark plugs on the bottom side of the engine under where the engine block is cast with the 660 number on it. There are three spark plug wires coming out from this area and should all be linked together going to the distributor. These are difficult to access or remove without the removing hoses and parts obstructing access. Steps 1) Access engine on PASSENGER SIDE Lower granny bar in back (if applicable), flip seat down forward, unclip two latches at front under the carpet and lean it into the back seat. IMG_2831-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:26 PM IMG_2832-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:26 PM 2) Remove TOP HOSE (1" +/-) for access Use your 5/16" socket and flathead screwdriver to remove the hose clamps on the top and bottom of the prominent top left zagging tube. In my case, I also had to remove two zip ties (reusable, thankfully) that secured another tiny hose to the first one. IMG_2836-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:26 PM IMG_2837-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:26 PM 3) Remove SIDE AIR HOSE (2" +/-) for access Loosen "+" screw clamp nearest body with Philips screwdriver; loosen hose clamp with 5/16" socket or flathead screwdriver. IMG_2838-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:26 PM 4) Remove RIGHT HOSE BOTTOM (1" +/-) for access Use your 5/16" socket and flathead screwdriver to remove the hose clamp at the bottom attached to the METAL piece between the second and third spark plug wire. I then tucked it up out of the way over the engine. IMG_2843-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM 5) Remove METAL piece from RIGHT HOSE BOTTOM connection Use you 10 mm socket to remove the two (2) screws on either side. You will definitely need those extenders now. IMG_2848-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM 6) Remove SPARK PLUG WIRES Make sure that you have your gloves on and pull pretty hard on the wires nearest where they bend at a 45 deg. angle so as not to damage the wiring. Some wiggling may help. Keep track of which wire goes to each spot. This should be easy due to each of their lengths, but you never know, so be mindful or tag if you need to. 7) Remove each SPARK PLUG Use 13/16" Magnetic Spark Plug Socket with universal joint and extensions to lock onto the spark plug - should kinda magnetic click into place, but it's pretty far in there. Turn firmly counter-clockwise until it the plug loosens. Keep ratcheting (approximately 100 quarter turns for me +/-) until you can pull the spark plug out cleanly. IMG_2841-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM IMG_2842-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM 8) Install NEW SPARK PLUGS Discard the old one and load the new one in your ratchet. Reverse the turn and install clockwise until it is snug, but not too tight. Do for all three (3) plugs. IMG_2847-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM 9) Install WIRE #3 first Press the wire that connects to the plug furthest into the vehicle (right side of engine nearest back seat) and press firmly until there is a little click. You'll need to sneak the other wires around the parts afterwards, but need to get some of them installed back first before reconnecting. 10) Install METAL piece Install and tighten two screws with ratchet very firmly. IMG_2849-scaled by I_AM_ZUKI posted May 25, 2025 at 4:29 PM 11) Install WIRE #2 & #1 Sneak the wires under and around metal piece and press firmly into place. 12) Install RIGHT HOSE BOTTOM 13) Install SIDE AIR HOSE BOTTOM first onto metal piece and tighten hose clamp, then attach to hose nearest the body afterwards. 14) Install TOP HOSE. 15) CLOSE UP / CLEAN UP I hope the this was helpful and best of luck.
Nice write up. I have a 96 and it is way different and the engine is in the rear with an access hatch right over the engine. Very easy to work on. Based on your writeup, the 91 every is setup just like a truck except its a van body on it. Very educational.
