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Suzuki Carry Lift Height Want POLL

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by spaner, Mar 7, 2012.



This poll will close on Jun 19, 2026 at 11:12 PM.

    0 vote(s)



  1. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Interested to hear what it is that guys are wanting for a lift on the Carry:pop:

    On my DD51t, stock, I was able to get a set of 24x8x12 Titan ATs under it, with a bit of rub in the front under turning, and the back, under heavy box load or heavy tongue load. Wide rears though.
    I got much the same result in the front only, with the 195 55r 15s studded.

    With the Afco lift and 5" on-center shackles, I got an 1 3/4" lift all around, no rubbing at all with either set under severe conditions. I may even be able to get some 25s under it now.

    With an additional 1 3/4, I would be able to get 26s under it for sure, maybe even some 27s, depending on the tire profile chosen.

    Do guys want to go higher? I imagine that with 27s the top speed would be around 45kph with the stock pwr set-up.
  2. Wedge

    Wedge Member

    Id go 4" for offroading but that is just what I want id be ok with 3 1/2
  3. firejonny89

    firejonny89 Member

    im with wedge 3 1/2 4 thats about all MOST people should need (key word MOST lol)
  4. Little Dumper

    Little Dumper Member

    Yup, I'm at about 3.25" and it's perfect. Switched to 23x8x12 SwampFoxs and have no issues at all, even at full articulation when I'm out on the trail. I also have my plow attatchment invading the wheel well a bit and still no issues with the smaller tires.

    I still don't get the issues people are having with big tires and no power though, is my truck a powerhouse freak or something? I had some 26" tall tires with 18" wheels on my truck last year for a week (borrowed from a friend) just to see what it would look like. I had no problem going 90km/h and climbed the hills around (in 3rd gear, cant do 4th even with the stock wheels) here even better than with the little wheels. I felt the extra weight in the steering wheel and over bumps but that was it, truck was a much better around town vehicle.

    Last edited: Mar 18, 2012
  5. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member


    Getting bored waiting for parts. Thought I'd write something interesting...:p

    So, so far, 8 members have chimed in to the poll. Quite a few views, but you got to account for those Subaru guys. :sly: Thank's anyways guys, I guess that's a bust. I just wanted to see what kind of interest there was, and now I know. I was thinking of doing a short run (50) units with my local fab shop. Just enough to cover the cost of one lift for myself but, this is a DIY forum so, I'll give you what I know; like always.

    A few members have come close to designing a good lift for the Suzuki. What I mean by that is, easy to install, takes care of all the details, etc. Here are a few points to consider:

    1) the Hunibar will always be the best solution to the Suzuki design, as it corrects for camber from the bottom and sets the control arm mounts below the inner CV angle of rotation. The Hi Jet, is already set-up this way, and is not even close to a "ball-joint-lock" condition, like the Suzuki.

    2) Some have discovered, but most are oblivious to the fact that members are using 2" spacers on top of the struts, and have no binding when the suspension is jacked clear of the ground. Does it not follow that a "spring lift" only utilises the remainder of the "strut articulation" and, does not contribute to an additional strut extension or, CV binding condition. A few have stumbled across this, but have not really "layed-it-out" to the laymen for understanding. A 2" spacer and a 1 3/4" AFCO lift = 3 3/4 total front lift; with a 3/4" suspension extension articulation; instead of a 2 1/2" articulation extension, with spacer only. Springs + Spacer. HELLO, am I still coming in stupid...BWDIK.

    3) Top spacers. Without getting too complicated, first gen..no camber correction, no CV lock consideration. Second gen...guys are cutting them down to two inch. Third gen...vendors are cutting them down to two inch. Forth gen...Vendors are including angle into the cuts to correct for camber. The basic system never evolved from the "exhaust manifold flange" from the vendors, and subsequent copies. At least one member found a better way...

    He was close, an "open mounting", but still, much better than the dual flange, 6 bolt system. He went to the dual flange 3 bolt system. Why not a single flange with 3 both system? Cost? Too bad, it's better...:sly:

    How about in combination with the Huntibar? Now you don't need the camber correction in the design...which was wrong anyway...


    Just a simple mill job, with the three sides cut off...simple. NB. Use Poly-U, if possible.

    4) Although some have come across the Idea of dropping the middle cross-member, this only mounts the A-arms and the DIFF rear mounts. Without the Hunibar the geometry is still not set-up correctly to lift the system. As you get closer to the 4" mark, the inner CV's start to bind unless they are extended horizontally (stretched sideways) VIA the Hunibar. The cross-member drop, is only good for lifts beyond 4", where the Huntibar is inclusive.

    5) Inner CV lock. As I have stated many times, and posted sketches and pics to describe...With the stock A-arm position, the inner CV gets "stuffed" with suspension extension. With the Huntibar, the inner CV gets "extended" with suspension extension. Here is the Negative profile of the inner CV:


    I'm not going to bother showing you the 12 VS 24 deg positions, as I have done many times. Sketches are on the forum if you wish to search them out. This Negative is to illustrate the "snapping" or "binding" condition that is experienced by members with an over-extended suspension system. It is the condition where the shaft, or axle, rides into the grooves of the inner CV "ball-tracts". The shaft is actually bouncing from the spring retainer clip, in the groove, to the inner ridge, and back to the spring in the groove. Six pops per rotation....:sly:

    6) The DIFF drop. Just a bad idea in general. Think of your legs as the two struts. As you extend, your legs come together. The A-arms go from 30 degs to 50 degs, and so must get closer together, right? Then you drop the DIFF, and "squish" the "drive-system" together, even further. Remember, the inner CVs, the more they are "stuffed" the less angle available. You want to laugh? I won't post the pic but, some have their A-arms at like 70 deg...and the DIFF dropped to be "in-line" (0 Degs)...you just know that the inner CV is SOOO "stuffed" that the axle is grinding on the inner cup, and the inner CV seals on the DIFF are getting "SQUISHED"...

    A quick "FAIL"...

    "My DIFF leaks"?...

    Anyway, that's about all I know...

    Good luck, and adieus...

    Last edited: Mar 25, 2012
  6. Wedge

    Wedge Member

    Nice ! but I'm on the same page as you to get 50 units you wouldve needed way more interest.
  7. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Not a big deal. It's probably my lowest priority right now so, maybe for the best.

    Still like to hear from guys though.....

    WHAT YOU WANT, not what you have, OK maybe it's the same thing.

    Add your vote, thanks...
  8. Wedge

    Wedge Member

    Already did.
  9. ferlin96

    ferlin96 New Member

    i got a 95 dd51t that i'd like to lift 1 3/4 where did u get it and was it spacer or what thank Ferlin
  10. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Ok. Head is still spinning a bit..........i have read many of spanners posts about lift and stuffing of cv. Makes total since. Now if i could have what i was dreaming about..............i would want a lift of around 6 to 8 inches. No need for wheel spacers in front just the rear. I would want added suspension travel as well in the front. I think if at all possible.........longer a arm and cv using all original front mounts accept for the front diff. That would have to drop a bit. But instead of u joints on the front drive have cv to help a bit with the added angle. The whole idea of course is just a pipe dream. The price alone would make it virtually impossible for the normal guy to.be able to afford. Im not giving up yet though. I talked to a fabled shop here locally. They build circle track race cars. They told be they could cut and stretch the a arm and keep it structurally sound..........that doesn't fix everything or come close to the solution but its as far as I've gotten so far. Again just one of these if i could have it my way pipe dreams. That was your question right Hahaha
  11. swat1018

    swat1018 Member

    I've searched and read every thread on lifting a suzuki. I want to build a huntibar. Does anyone have the measurements or diagram? I'd gladly buy two if someone has fab'ed any.
  12. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member


    "The Huntibar",

    It was a VERY good idea and complete solution to the myriad of problems (as they were understood at that time) associated with a "lifting system", integrated into the Suzuki Carry. (92-98) Especially so, and developed for.

    This was all 5-years ago, this thread...4-four, and today, in 2016, only 4 additional members have even bothered to reply (Vote) to develop a concensus on the matter; height-want. (ABOVE ^^^)

    Huntidalligo, or such, I believe his avitar was; he was way beyond his time, and he never really did receive his proper due for the single contriution that he made here...for all of us; and THAT is why, WE (Those of Old) christened the solution: "The Huntibar"

    This place, this site, it's the god-damned library of congress when it comes to the Japanese Mini Truck.
    (I can log-in now quite easily. I have NOT been able to do so for quite some time; and I don't mean months)

    Everything is here, in this place. It only requires to be found; I shit you not. Every question/solution that you want, is here, AND Hidden/Disguised in a backroom 2006 thread entitled "Hi".

    The trick, William Potter, is to be able to search it out...but the answers that you are looking for.....they ARE here...the answers ARE here, and you don't need to ask me, as I will try to be here, but the answers are always here...

    The Last Generation, those that have come and gone,
    THEY, have already asked, and answered these questions,

    The answers that you are looking for, they are here...

    UPDATE: Spring 2016
    spaner, and the Interceptor 4.0
    This is what I have NOW :

    From stock,
    First Lift,
    I did the AFCO and Shackle; Front 1 3/4" Rear 2.0"
    Second Lift,
    Information from the other members here, plus my own insite and integration of obvious modifications once the mod was underway,
    I added, 5.0" perches, FRONT 5.0 (1-one piece-one-bolt) [some have used "double-2" SquareTube-4-bolt]" Rear -"Axle-Over" mod; yes 4.0"

    Detail to mod:
    Rear-Total Work; 6-six-days.
    Front-Total Work; 12-twelve-days (6-six-days per side).

    RND, search the site, and in-site, parts ordering (Like 6" long M-12, stress-12...X4)

    Like usual, I did it the "Hard Way", and it could be done just a little easier, with the same result, but...

    The Result, what I have NOW;

    FRONT: 1 3/4" AFCO + 5 Perches = 6 3/4"
    REAR: 2" shackles + Spring-Over-4" =6.0"

    6.0 in the rear, and 6 3/4" in the front; all over STOCK.

    THEN...The Tracks...Xgen-STS4s

    With the Tracks;
    Front wheel-well (high center)...35.0" from the ground.
    Rear wheel-well (high center)...33.0" from the ground.

    That is NOT a 2.0" "LIFT" difference but, just where the wheel-wells measure up.
    The difference IS 3/4" and I anticipate, with a Plow-Mod, 1/4" higher in the front.

    Switch it up, To Tires;
    AND, They are; Ford 15" [Aluminum wheels are light] Ha, ha;
    Off the car, "Studded" Winter set;
    The car gets the summer 16s, and the rig...it gets the winter studded IZEN 15" 195 55r 15s...

    The point here, is Flexibility of Application. Yes, I can put the Tracks on the car but, would I want to?

    With the tire application as described above;
    Front wheel-well (high center)...31 1/2" from the ground.
    Rear wheel-well (high center)...29 1/2" from the ground.

    Writing a book here,
    If you want to go higher, 6" or so, there is a huge amount of detail involved, and it can be done. I can walk you through it but, you've got to be dedicated to the project.

    It's going to cost some money...sure but, it's the TIME, a LOT of TIME ;
    You can do it, and I'll help, I'll tell you how, but the WORK....

    It really IS a CRAZY amount of work to get just a few inches of lift (6 3/4" Lift over Stock)

    It's done the right way, but it takes a lot of time and a lot of effort.
    You really have to WANT this...


    [​IMG] Image0 (1).jpg
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2016
  13. swat1018

    swat1018 Member

    I was hoping you would answer. I will try and search for the "Hi" thread. What do you mean by perches. I have a suzuki I lifted with 275 # springs / 1" spacer. I also used the camber bolts to correct. It has 25" tires under it.

    Starting to work on a Mitsubishi I just got. Have a 2" strut spacer, and 275# springs going in. Have done one side, haven't put the camber bolt in. The CV angle looks troubling already. Thus, thinking of building a huntibar. What do you mean by "1 3/4 AFCO + 5 perches"? I get the 1 3/4" AFCO part. I thought I read every thread on here about lift, but I feel like there is a lot missing. Thanks for the time. I'll look more....
  14. swat1018

    swat1018 Member

    Dude, I've been searching all day long. If there's a thread titled "Hi" from 2006, I sure as hell can't find it. Throw me a bone.....
  15. Fierce

    Fierce New Member

    I still cannot find any threads on the Hunibar / Huni-Bar / Huntibar but want to lift my 1990 dd51t enough to comfortably clear a 27-8.50-14 tire.
  16. Mudjunkie

    Mudjunkie New Member

    Doesn't exist, forum only goes back to 2009
  17. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    If you can do a search of posts by spaner you will find some talk about them, if I remember right Muddy Moose talked about them too. It's been maybe 3 years ago. Neither of these guys is real active on the forum any more but they posted some real good stuff as far as mods go.

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