Suzuki Carb

Does anyone know what carburetor is on a Suzuki DD51T with the F6A engine?

Example, is it a Mikuni CV 46mm and what series it might be.

I think I am having carb problems and would like to research some before I tear it apart.

Thanks.

 

Mikuni Carb.

I also have a dd51T. It only gets about 10 MPG. I to believe something is wrong with the carb. So far I have found no info, or help. If you come up with something please post back here. I have mine off the truck, but I'm a little bit scared to tear it apart without some info on how it works, or at least a parts diagram.

 

How was it pulling the carb off? If you could give me some direction it would be great.

I have some found some sites to get rebuild kits for if I can ever get mine off to look at it.

What symptoms does yours have?

 

Mikuni Carb.

The carb on mine has several lines and vacume hoses going to it, but once I got in there it really wasn't a problem to get off. Two bolts hold the air cleaner on with one hose going to it, plus the one connecting it to the intake. Remove all this and the air cleaner is out of the way. My carb had a plastic shield around it that had two bolts on the backside holding it on. It would make things easier to remove the cover in the bed, but I didn't because my bed was full of junk. Just mark all the hoses with some tape in relation to where they go on the carb. There will be two on the bottom that might have water running out. Mine had these, but I already had the water out. I believe this is an intake heater to preheat the fuel mixture before it goes into the engne. To remove the throttle cable loosen the nuts holding it in the mount. Unscrew the one to the front all the way off. With your hand push the throttle linkage (where the cable hooks) wide open. This should give enough slack in the cable to unhook it. The carb. should be able to pull out now.

 

Correct, These should be tied into the cooling system to circulate coolant.
I could be wrong [been wrong before ] but I think it is for the choke so that as the engine warms up it kicks off the choke.

 

Mikuni carb choke

TimeTripper,

You are right about the choke. The Mikuni is an unusual carburator, with a nonstandard choke setup: Basically, engine coolant passes into/through a chamber in the choke housing on the carb to heat a paraffin pellet which pushes against a piston. This piston opposes a rather strong spring, which opens and closes the choke via a gear system.

If the piston freezes up, due to either the coolant hoses getting clogged (keeping the paraffin pellet from being heated) or the linkage gets bent/maladjusted this would either make it run bad cold - but ok when engine is warmed up (stuck/maladjusted open), or make it run really rich and smoke black with a high idle (stuck/maladjusted closed). This could be some of the low mileage probs that some people (JFoshee) are experiencing. Might not hurt to ensure the coolant passage is clear/open whenever the system is flushed. There is a website (UK) that sells a choke conversion kit for these and other brand carbs that have the "wax" chokes (converts it to a manual choke).

http://www.claymoreonline.co.uk/ChokeConversionKits/

later, slim

 

Good Explaination of the choke function.

On a whole it could explain why a lot of different brand Kei truck owners have trouble in the colder NA enviroment with trucks running rich or hard to start if the passages to the choke are blocked or restricted.

 

my trucks starts up cold fine the problem i have is when it warms up it wont idle does any body have any ideas

 

Slimbad, thanks for the info. It looks like all the conversion does is get rid of the "autochoke" and make it manual. I believe I could do this without their kit. I'm going to check the truck tomorrow by leaving off the air cleaner and running it until it gets warm. I should be able to see the choke open up. If it dosen't, there is a problem somewhere. Do you know where I could buy the piston or other parts to fix it with? These don't sound like parts that would come with a kit. There are some things mounted external on the linkage side of the carb. Is one of these the piston you are describing? In your post you make it sound internal. If not what do these do? I know one has a vacume line going to it, but don't remember about the other.

 

I think the external functions are, the choke, the high idle for the cooling fan and a/c, and an accelerator pump.

You should see these off the side of the carb.

 

Plus if I'm not mistaken [here I go again] one of them is a dash pot so that when you lift your foot off the throttle
the butterfly doesn't slam shut - this is for emmissions purposes. The HC's [?] go thru the roof otherwise without it.

 

All, great info! Thanks folks! Mine is a 92 Carry, and runs great!....however doesn't get the milage I and we think it should also. Can anybody tell me where when looking at the carb, the air/fuel screw is? I'm going to try that, as I know that just a tweek can make a big differance on a small carb. THANKS!

 

Keep in mind the following:

For maximum fuel economy, you cannot be running oversized tires. Also, you driving has to be on the street with an average speed around 60-70kmh.

Faster and fuel economy goes down, slower economy goes down, bigger tires, economy goes down.

Guys will only get 10MPg on big tires, off road use. The 50+ MPG dreams are largely that.... dreams. It pretty much doesnt happen in the real world.

Also, dont lug the engine, it NEEDS RPMs to operate properly. Too many guys shift up a gear too early, thinking lower RPMs are better on fuel.... That is only partially true, and only if the motor is in its power band.

Small tires, synthetic fluids, proper revs, clean air filter, then look at the carb. Otherwise if the tires and revs arent proper, you arent going to get the results you want regardless.

 

I still can't get my carb off the truck. I have followed the instructions above and I can't get it to pull off. Does anyone know how it connects to the intake manifold? Is it glued in or just pushed on? I can't find any clamps that may be holding it in.

Any help would be great.

 

Thanks for the info. It was the 2 bolts that I was missing. They were caked with dirt & disappeared.

For future searches there are 2 bolts that you can get to after you remove the air cleaner housing. They run from the air cleaner side all the way into the intake manifold through the carb. Loosen those up with a 12mm socket and the carb will pull free.