1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Suzuki Carb swap out! :-)

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by SDK1968, Jan 7, 2020.

  1. Robdjay

    Robdjay New Member


    Looks like that will fit.

    You will also need this flange if you dont already have one. It fits but it's a little small. You'll need to grease it up and push hard to get the carb in there. I would buy a little bigger if I was doing it again. But the bolt holes are perfect..75mm.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079C84DTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    This is the carb I bought:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08131R7WG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    But, if you notice, there is difference between the Rhino and Grizzly carbs...the throttle is facing forward on the Grizzly and facing rearward on Rhino. Rearward facing is what you want. I had to take mine apart and spin my throttle 180 degrees which wasn't a big deal.

    Also, this Grizzly carb just might be too big for this engine...not sure yet because I never got new/smaller jets? Hell the jets can cost as much as the carb if you have to buy too many of them to experiment... It idles great but boggs down if you give it too much throttle at once. If you ease into it, it will rev up. I also ran my vacuum from the intake to the distributor for timing advance. I never even hooked my throttle up since I couldn't get it rejetted.

    If someone gets one of these big carbs jetted properly and shares that info I might try it again but for now i'm sticking with what is working which is my orginal carb. The automatic choke is nice now that it is working

    Good Luck!
     
  2. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Most carburetor problems aren’t really. The idle cutoff solenoid being bad would definitely keep it from idling. And a plugged water feed to the choke would definitely make it run really rich.
     
  3. Puro

    Puro Member

    Guess I'll be ordering that soon then! Also, I suppose you've already tried running the mix a little leaner?
    Otherwise, maybe ditch the whole airbox assembly and slap a cold air intake? Maybe it's not getting enough air?
    If you don't run it for too long, maybe try hotter spark plugs?
    Just tossing random ideas here, don't judge me too hard if they all sound stupid, haha!
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020
  4. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    No coolant lines on my new carb, just the cable which I must say I thought was going to be better!
    I had hopes of finding a solenoid like yours to use as a electric choke!

    Sounds like either you are running out of fuel at the top end?
    Either your float bowel isn't keeping up or your main isn't large enough?
     
  5. Robdjay

    Robdjay New Member

    Yeah, I tried the air mixture screw but no help since its for idle range and its idling perfect now.
    I do have a new K&N filter so air flow is good. I'm getting a new muffler/pipe installed on Monday since the old one is falling apart and I can hear it rattling inside...maybe the exhaust is restricted just enough due to the falling apart muffler..we shall see.
     
  6. Puro

    Puro Member

    By the way, does anyone here have any information on floatbowl adjustments?
     
  7. matt167

    matt167 Active Member

    If you get the float to set level with the bowl mating edge you have it right.
     
  8. Puro

    Puro Member

    And that's with the the diaphragm down on a surface, floatbowl-side up, both intakes on left and right sides?
    Geez, the floater is leaning way down! Had to bend the pin quite a bit to level it...
    The spring in the valve still has some bounce in it... though, I guess it must've lost some spring after 27 years...
     
    Limestone likes this.
  9. matt167

    matt167 Active Member

    yeah, level across the float bowl mating surface upside down.. Really it should be level with it just touching the needle ( so carb tipped a little ). But if you get it level upside down, you'll likely have it close enough
     
    Puro likes this.
  10. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    To set your float 'Level' simply add a piece of fuel hose to inlet and blow with your mouth as you raise the float!
    It should shut off as it becomes 'Level' with carb body!
     
    Puro likes this.
  11. Puro

    Puro Member

    The springvalve is very loose, doesn't seem to have much bounce left in it. Plus that repair kit I've ordered had a chinese knockoff springvalve that doesn't fit. That or it came from a different carburetor model altogether...
    I'm ordering a second repair kit soon that seems to have matching springvalve this time around. (Back then I hadn't opened my carburetor so I didn't know what it was supposed to look like!)

    If it's another misfit, I got a bunch of micro springs laying around, I'll put one on top of the springvalve retainer screw, right under the floater bracket. Sketchy, but it should work.
     
  12. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    adjust the little tab to correct the level.
    Only do a slight adjustment at a time
     
  13. Puro

    Puro Member

    I did, but the spring bottoms out way before the float is even leveled...
     
  14. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    What spring?
    The needle is held to the float with a wire clip.
     
  15. Puro

    Puro Member

    That's true for my Chinese replica. The needle gets pulled up with the float as it goes up with the aid of that clip.
    On my original, Japanese carburetor, the needle gets pulled up by a hook on the floater itself.

    The needle on the original has a"collar" that allows the hook to pull it out.

    When I say "spring" I mean that little pin that juts out on the other side of the needle and that presses against the float.
    On my Chinese replica, the float bounces and springs on it just fine.
    On the original, it barely has any tension left in it and just droops.
     
  16. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    IM starting a new thread with a new Idea, please join and help me
     
    Limestone likes this.
  17. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    OK for the carb flanges there are 2 basic bolt patterns
    My 91 DB51 F6a is a HD pattern 3" c/c and the size of the carb they are talking about would be the 38mm
    A HD VM 36-38 (F07-105-01) measure 3' c/c and the bore is 1 5/8"

    This is a steel plate with the rubber boot and hose clamp.
    They are about 10 bucks

    If we can find a source the Polaris Magnum 500 used a Mikuni CV 32 ???

    Which jetting would be simple and the jets are readily available aftermarket even
     
  18. Puro

    Puro Member

    I'll post this here because it seems like the most relevant thread for the time.

    I've been rebuilding my carburetor and just now I've started to re-assemble it. Though, I've ran into a problem.
    When I took the top diaphragm off the needle came flying off. I didn't lose any bits, but I have no clue in which order those washers and springs come back together.
    I've put them in a way I "assume" would be right, but I still have my doubts. When I screw the whole thing back together (in the order shown on the picture) the spring seems fully compressed.
    The needle doesn't seem to be able to move at all.
    Anyone got any clue?
     

    Attached Files:

  19. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    This is why I am looking for a Mikuni
     
  20. Puro

    Puro Member

    I am... about to throw that carburetor out the window, truth be told.
    What model Mikuni you'd go for? I'm curious.
     
  21. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Mikuni makes a 40mm pumper
    The problem is they are like $250
     
  22. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

  23. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    There are several past posts in the forum, where people went with the Mikuni carb, 32 mm, flat slide! When I was choosing a new carb., this would have been my next choice, seems a lot of people are happy with it, and it has worked out well for them! Good Luck!
    Limestone
     
  24. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

  25. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    KC,
    Just a thought. When I was looking for, and thinking about replacing my carb., I went on the Mikuni sight, and called their Tech. line, and I talked to a gentleman that was very informative and help full! I feel their Tech support line in California is very good! I was very impressed! Just more info, I hope it might help with your decision!
    Limestone
     
  26. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Im just concerned how the throttle cable hooks up?
     
  27. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Calif 888-885-1242
    Thanx I will call next week.

    I know they make a 32 33 and 40 mm pumpers and maybe a 36?
    I know our stock is 30mm?
    Wouldn't the 40mm really help the top end?

    I have a 40mm Kihen and it would Not pull off the bottom very well but screamed on top.
    Found it to be flooding and passing there the seat, not needle!

    Is the 40 going to be too BIG?
     
  28. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I would run those questions by them. That's what they do! Give them all your technical info, and data on your unit! To me they are specialized in that field, and second to none! Hopefully, Covid 19 hasn't put too much of a restriction, on their Tech site!
    Limestone
     
  29. Puro

    Puro Member

    Dumb questions. (Again) But A) what's this whole "milimeters" business all about? Like... I'd imagine it's how big the carburetor is? Bigger engine displacement, bigger MM?
    And what's that about needing a "pumper"?

    Just trying to follow the conversation!
     
  30. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    The stock carb is 30 millimetres
    CV is constant velocity
    Pumper is accelerator pump
     

Share This Page