This carb swap is NOT my idea or "find" its totally someone else's & this is just how its worked out for me. Your results may vary! got this idea from a local kids post online. He has a Mini & like most old Mini's he had this same carb problem. He swapped his out with a Rhino 660 carb. The reasons he used this carb are: 1. its CHEAP! brand new it was only $39 w/free shipping! 2. its simple with ZERO vacuum lines or extra goodies on it 3. it fits the space perfectly! 4. it works perfect off of the fuel pump already in use on carbed minis! 5. its readily available & so are rebuild kits. so lets get to it! first thing was to get the old carb unhooked, off & the coolant lines that went to it looped together. next was to get rid of the zillion Vac lines that go to the carb from all over & then to make sure that all the needed Vac lines were still hooked up from the tree. my Mini had a 3+2 carb from the factory on the Vac line set up. Good news is you can do away with many of these if you follow the handy diagram from the other carb thread thats posted. with that stuff out of the way you next need to get the air cleaner unmounted & so on. having a good view in your mind of how this is gonna look when done always helps on a project. i knew that i wanted this to look fairly neat & not cobbled together. first thing you need for the install is an adapter from the Mini intake to the carb. This is NOT something that exists right off. since my best friend has one of those fancy new 3D printers.... i took the original gasket for that space & traced it out & then added the kneck it would need to match the carb neck. sent this to Pryotex & had him print me out the result which is a carb flange adapter that fits like a glove! (pryotex is going to offer these for sale to those who need one!) You connect this to the manifold with the 2 bolts & the flange side goes to the carb with a simple rubber boot that you can get anywhere. (size is 2") next you connect the fuel line & plug off the return fuel line. ive not had any issue with not having a return line & the truck has ran for several hours now at all different RPM's & loads.... if it becomes an issue of flooding or flow thru? i'll ad the return back in with a regulator set up. next step is to work on the throttle cable. for this particular carb the cable is on the right hand side, but the cable is plenty long enough & all you have to do is cut the end off to get it thru the housing & then crimp a new end on the cable & insert it into the holder. worked perfect! pedal feel is very nice. something i did notice is the throttle stop that is built into the carb & for that you then go adjust your pedal down at the floor so that when the throttle stop is hit in the carb.... it is also bottoming out the pedal. This will keep you from pulling the cable apart or putting extra stress on the set up. moving to the only thing left to do! AIR CLEANER SET UP! coming out of the carb to the air cleaner you need another rubber adapter. i chose a 2" 90* rubber boot after not liking the original straight set up. this lets me relocate the air cleaner back to the frame rail under the bed & allows much easier air cleaner access. i took a piece of 1" square tube & welded it to the frame & then bolted the air cleaner to that thru the factory mount holes. This works great & gives you a nice looking install. only thing left to do was fire it up & set the idle & so on.... This is where some of you will tell me this is wrong, but it is what it is. i dont have my choke cable yet so no choke & cold...... hit it with a dash of ether.... she fired right up & roared to life. idle was good but a little fast. made sure she was running on gas & not ether fumes & let it warm up. she hadnt been started in a couple weeks & was flooded out by the other carb several times before that, so letting it run for a few mins was a good thing. after letting her warm up i set the idle for where it "felt" good. to me on these mini's they are good at about 1200 rpm. thats a touch faster than factory but you have to remember we are now doing something different than all those factory idle uppers it came with. At that idle speed i can turn the heat/ac on with no problem & it doesnt kill it. same for adding in the lights, high fan position & then when the cooling fan kicks in ..... all of this happens & the carb is keeping right up with it in a much simpler set up. once shes warmed up? you can turn it off & restart without ever touching the gas. just turn the key & good to go. when its cold? still need to get the choke hooked up! Then i'll be able to make a final adjustment & see if this solves the cold start issues it always had. now heres the pictures of everything & a parts list: parts list Rhino 660 carb from Calltrec $39 2" boot $4 2" 90* boot $6 choke cable $7 PIX!!