Suspension drop on a 93

I recently bought a 93 minicab from a dealer i found here, located in NC. I test drove it around the field, loved it and bought it. I kept hearing a clicking sound at or near full steering lock. I thought it was the tires knobbies rubbing on stuff. It has 489 tires on stock rims with a 3" lift kit installed.
I went to Coal Creek in TN. the next day and it was clicking louder and when turning around on a gravel road the cv half shaft popped out of the cv. When i got back from the trip I did some digging on this forum and found what I should have known, that with 3" of lift, the left front axle is over it's limit. I kick myself for not knowing it when I was looking at the truck. The waterpump also sprung a leak, but we'll go there latter. When I got back there was an e-mail from the seller about how it was good to talk, hope I enjoy the truck. I wrote back a nice letter about the issues, stating at least twice that I was not angry, but with only 52 miles on it in one day I wasn't happy either. I expect the cv was going before hand. I didn't hear back for 10 days. By then I had the cv rebuilt locally for 60 bucks. I was dissapointed that the guys I bought it from, while they did say they would see what they could do for me, made no effort to either help find the parts I needed or even reply very quick. Once they knew of problems, the communication was better. Of course this is not their only line of work, I understand, but it is their business and they need to attend to it a bit more in that respect. They did offer to replace the rear tires though. Somehow, the fronts turned out to be 24" and the rears were 25". I got a new waterpump from DAN here on the board. I owned a used car lot before. Buyer beware, as is or no warranty unless purchased are part of the business. But on a vehicle nearing 5k in price, I would have expected some help with issues in the first 50miles or so.
That said, it is up and running again. Here's how I will keep the axle alive and have my tire clearance as well.
I dropped the front subframe 1.5 inches with solid blocks.
I also had to modifiy the motor subframe where the front driveshaft would hit it.
It all took far more time than effort. But the bolts are fine thread and don't like to go in unless they are EXACTLY where they need to be.
I also slipped the first u-joint on the steering box all the way towards the rear of the truck. The bolt slot is extra wide and no mods were required. I would not drop it more than this, the u-joint is at a funny angle as it is. I'll let everyone know how it went this weekend when I try it out again.

 

I know that I probably sound like a broken record on this subject...but....you CANNOT put 3" strut spacers on the front of a mini truck without dropping the front diff, and not expect problems with the CV joints. I don't care what anyone says, the CV joints are not designed to operate at the angles that are incurred when the struts are spaced down more than an additional 1-2 inches. If you use just the 3" spacers on top of the struts, it is just a matter of time before the CV joints will fail.

The solution is just what you have done, add spacers to drop the entire front driveline. The front differential MUST be dropped along with the struts. I would not change the angle by more than a 1 inch difference between the drop on the struts and the differential. In other words, 3" strut spacers and 2" spacers under the front diff crossmember.

This is just my experience from a whole lot of research, design and testing. This subject became sorta an obsession. I enjoy mechanical design (do it for a living!) and working out the best way to lift one of these little trucks was a fun project. I will be glad to share what I have learned with anyone that has questions.

Just my 2 cents worth....

 

I understood what you meant, JR when it came to the drop. I didn't go 2" because when I did the math on the angle, the difference was about 1/8th inch at the cv for the .5 inches at the frame. The change is dramatic as the lower control arm is very tilted without it, and far closer to normal with the drop. As the strut is already at full droop, it becomes the pivot point of a lever. The cv on one end close to the pivot and the subframe mounting point as the other end of the lever. As the longer end aproaches level, the shorter end sees less change in it's angle. The CV should see plenty of life now, as it looks like it's well within 20 degrees max travel.

Also, those tires of JR's fit with a spacer and minor trimming up front, even when the suspension is compressed. They say 10.5 wide, but reality is 9.2, thankfully.

I bought the spacers from ezaccesories.com (check that spelling!) they are 4.5x4.5 adaptors,(114.3mm) which means a spacer if the bolt patterns are the same, less than 80 bucks for the pair, with 8 skinny lugs and the correct threads for the truck. got them in four days.

 

Greg,

I agree with you, I think that what you have done will fix your problems. Looks good. And I'm glad you are happy with the tires.

Now you need to post some pics so we can see what all you have done!

 

I have a three inch lift on my truck so I guess I can expect CV failure. I am not a mechanic and cannot drop the differential, etc., as described by others. I also do not want to give up the lift and lose the big wheels and tires. I believe that the truck, with about 50,000 total miles, has already been driven quite a few miles with the lift in place. On the other hand, I will be putting very few miles on the rig. Perhaps twice a week I go out to my property, drive the truck on my property a mile or less and take a jaunt on the nearby country road for two to three miles. This means eight miles of driving every week, about four hundred miles a year. Maybe I will get lucky and have no mechanical failure while I own the Hijet. I have not had the vehicle checked by a mechanic. Eventually I will haul the truck fifteen miles into town to my regular garage and have it examined and tuned up.

Problems such as the one being discussed here highlight the difficulties with these excellent trucks: they are old and not intended to be used offroad with big tires. Quite a bit of work and expense may be required to adapt them for offroad use and to keep them running.

Sam

 

Honestly, the hardest part of the drop was the welding. It would take a welder about 30 minutes to do it, more likely less if he has a lift. i did it on my side wacking my head on everything with the mask on. The blocks were cut to size by the steel place, while I watched. The ends do not matter at all, and the 1.5 iches is uniform to the whole bar he cut it from. 50 cents per pound, 13 pounds per foot. I needed two 2 inch long, two 3 inch long, two 5 inch long and two 6 inch long. I drilled it out on my 50 dollar northern tool cheapo deluxe drill press on the floor of my garage and used WD40 for cutting oil. I didn't break a bit and used three sizes to get all the way out. You just have to go slow on the last size or it grabs and stops. I even filed the edges real quick to take the cut edge off of them. The bolts came from home depot and ace. Everthing is just plain bolted in place, no magic, no mystery. The hardest part is maybe the physical pushing and pulling of getting it to line up. Most of the mounts have two bolts, so line one up and get it started, then the other. About 120 bucks in steel, bolts, washers, and having the cuts made.
CV life also depends on how you use it, how often the cv is at full lock/load/droop. You don't have to be a mechanic either: I'm just a mailman.
Enjoy them!

 

volkswagen,

You are a mailman who is skilled at using power tools and working on trucks. Congratulations on your successful project.

Sam

 

Thanks Sam! I huess I just wanted to say that it can be done by a non-professional, but some skill is required. I'd think on a Mitsu that it could be done by a shop in a day for less than 500 bucks. Don't be afraid to drive it, or not baby it, just have respect for it and it will last. I use mine as a ATV. I don't beat on it. We'll see Sunday how the drop works out. I'll keep people posted. Greg

 

I used the truck today for the first time with the suspension drop. It worked fine. I tried the turfmaster tires first, then the 6-12 tractor tires. The turfs loaded up with mud quick, but would shed it the first section of hard dirt of 50 yards or so. They gave a nice ride. The tractor tires rode hard, vibrated and were awesome in the mud. I only got stuck once and it was my own dumb fault for going into the mud puddle that I was told not to. What was left of a cherokee with dana 60's and lockers front and rear pulled me out. Water on the carb made it race until I got it home and it dried out, then it was fine. The water was in the cab four inches deep or so. We took pics, but need to download them from the phone.
This was at Gulches ORV park in SC. small place but plenty of fun. We watched and helped a cherokee that was on it's side twice trying to get out of a nasty triple black trail (Sidewinder). I was able to do most of the intermediate trails and did stand it on the nose in a gulley, but it did not get stuck there. Big piece of mud on the bumper top after that! Lots of fun, can't wait for Broad river on the 26-27th!
Greg

 

Breaking Struts

I have read all the post with great attention to the 3 in lifts. I have bought a 93 mitsu with a lift installed. the front struts have have broken the top stud that holds it all together. I'm totally puzzled. too I would like to get more info on dropping the front drive line.