That must have taken you three days clint..wedge Camera sucks but hey, what you gonna do... http://youtu.be/GS_Wdz42LsE Death wobble at 125. Definitely the rack for the next project.
just a around 2 hrs on and off but I know some of this stuff already i mean the science behind your trials and all ,because Im building a Twin turbo Datsun Z.
Found this little gem while researching alt/accessories momentary cut-out systems. +20% hp for us little engine guys. This was under general engine health, and thought I would add it to the "to-do" list. http://www.himacresearch.com/books/hydro8.html ...
I've seen a few of those kits for sale in different places before...not sure about the 25% fuel economy increase but it is still a worthwhile project...a clean-out valve would be a good addition to the set-up...good find regarding your alt. cut out..have you considered a vacuum controlled switch so the alt. only engages under higher vacuum condition (lifted throttle ,idle)
Yea, I think it's worth while for kei trucks in general. I don't believe in the 25% either, but I do buy into the engine health side of the concept. Oil sludge is being diverted from re-entering the intake of the engine. Or a small percentage anyway. ACV- Auxilliary Crankcase Ventilation. How does the EPA feel about me just slapping an out-flow filter onto that bad boy? No intake connection, "tractor style"... hehehe, I'm bad, I'm bad... As far as the alt is concerned, a little more R of the R&D than I really wanted to do, but time well spent. Controlling, as you mentioned, will be hooked into the existing vacuum sensor for the S/C system, not a problem. It's the switching. A control via the main line will almost certainly get you a fried regulator. Field control will work on systems that are not "self generating" once exited. But mostly, it's a big pain in the butt. I did read about an ingenious solution from a guy that was using a self generating alt. BTW, these alts run a "voltage sense" line in place of a regulator "power line", non-switchable, switchable. Anyway, what he did was to switch in a 14.5V drill batt, that fooled the alt into dropping load, as the system was "sensed" to be "fully charged". Just ingenious, and batt stays "topped-up", 14.6 to 14.5, with no load. Smart. For those wondering, nothing is for free, a cut-out system just drops load to the batt for a short period of time to make the HP available for use, passing, hill climb..etc. Add the AC on, to that, and it's quite a lot of HP being kept out of the mud hole. Anyway, interesting stuff...
I've bin a bad, bad boy... http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm This is a racing truck, right? Just bought a whole bunch of stuff from them, not cheap, but nice perfect fitting products. OCV - remote mount filter 54mm oval intake, with BAG,,,
Nope, that's a self-excited alt that I have. Just tried to drop the load by pulling the plug. :frustration: It will remain unloaded, if I pull it before start, but will not drop load after that. Hmmm, may come back to that later. Still shopping.
Parts are on the way, but be careful guys, the internet is becoming a dangerous place to shop. Clear your browser, weather it be Google Chrome, or EI 7 or 8, clear those cookies before proceeding to the next transaction..... If you can see an advertisement that is even close to what you are looking for. Clear those cookies man. Before your bank information is gobbled up, and transacted before you want it to be. :frustration::frustration::frustration: Faster than you can say High Jacked...Mother Fracktors are just waiting to gobble up your information... Lesson Learned...
... Just a quick update on the interceptor. I lucked into a shop yesterday. Maybe surprising for some to learn that most of my mods are done on the sidewalk. Or, in rushed spurts, when I can borrow a shop for a few days. Usually everything has to be timed to start and finish "on-time". Life "up-north" and "on-the-move" is a little different for some things. Waited in-line for two years, and just lucked out. A single bay and even has power and a ceiling light. I know, you guys just have no idea, but thought I'd mention it anyway. Spring mods have been planed and I started on the steering rack yesterday. Bigger job that I would have thought. Although, having checked the boots on a regular basis, one of them had been cracked for a long time; years. Rack was completely full of rust and corroded. All of the teeth are there though, so it can, and will be rebuilt. I do recommend that everyone inspect their rack ASAP though. Easily done. Just remove the outer boot, one spring clip and one wire wrap. Takes 5 minutes. You will be able to tell the condition right away. I should have done this when I first got the truck, but I never saw THE crack. Explains the "death wobble" at 125... Anyway, a few things to look out for: There is only one bushing on the rod and it is on the inner side. Mine had about 10thou play, way too much. Also, this bushing has "breather grooves" which cause corrosion tracts, and support issues. The outer side is pressed against the steering drive gear, "bushing like", but plastic parts, so be careful. The "shaft rider" is plastic, then the tension spring, then the threaded cap, which is also plastic; do not torque this "tensioner" beyond normal plastic integrity; it will fail. I plan on improving on, and replacing all of these components at the machine shop. The boots, West Shore Auto, AKA minitruck.ca AKA...the only problem that I have with these guys, is that I find quite a few websites, and names, and associations, but definitely my favorite vendor. Every time I call, they answer the phone, even when they are closed, they still talk to me, give me info, or solve my component issue outright. In three years, I have had nothing but great service from these guys. 5 Stars for OEM components. Local, CarQuest, but of course, my buddy works there. Now, a few items from the diagram. Obviously a low-speed unit, yet items 7 and 8 are both high-speed roller bearings. Why? Would brass bushing components not serve the function better? I will talk to the machinist, but I think that it is obvious. Brass is better than plastic, and I have an issue with the whole drive section anyway. BTW, WARNING, item # 15, and the retainer nut, should NEVER be removed. It is not "keyed" and may damage components during disassembly. Regardless, it is not required to remove the shaft from the housing in the disassembly process...FYI.... Also, very important; my pit-man-arm has already been rebuilt, via pressed brass sleeve onto existing worn shaft. I took the "pin" measurement average myself with micrometer (10thou play), and it required two jacks to install. 400 miles later, still can't move it by hand, but it is "sweet" off the steering wheel...FYI... ADDED, Sorry, forgot to add, backyard mechanics. How to remove #8 the needle bearing from the main housing. Dear old dad. Old school tricks. Place the housing in the freezer over-night and turn up the hot water heater, to the max. In the morning, run the hot water over the outside of the housing, using a tool like, "snap-on 3ASH"; hardened "pull-hook"; needle bearing slides right out...too easy...
good post Spaner...do you see any adjustability in the rack plunger..or is it merely spring tension that keeps it pushed against the rack?
... Insightful question fupa, sometimes, you make me smile......Like I'm not talk'in all retard, or something. Analogy; If owner X bought this truck new, and took really good care of it. He would have tightened the outer slider about every 100hr of operation; about 10 degrees. This would have taken extra good care of the inner bushing, that really makes up the bulk of the support for this rack system. Assuming that the boots were in A1 condition; of course. If the inner bushing is fee of contamination, and is kept "in-line", then the useful operation of the rack is extended to the 100,000 KM mark. BUT, if this, or similar consideration was not taken into account; then no amount of aftermarket adjustment will correct for the already FUBARED condition...a worn bushing, is a worn bushing; AND needs to be rebuilt, and/or replaced... ...
Lol answered with true Spaner eloquence..an answer and a solution..perfect your dad's freezing trick is the same one I use to install crank bearings on old Vespas..freeze the bearing overnight and it pops right into the outer case.
Yup. It's surprising to me to read just how much bad info there is on the net. A lot of people are of the opinion that a set amount of hp is required to "spin" an alt, regardless of electrical load, or RPMs. This just is not true. For you pegers, I should think that your day-time-driving lights are just killing your MPG..fuel costs. One of those things that make me go "hmmm". The EPA is all about econo and emissions and fuel prices are outrageous, but the provence mandates everyone to drive around during the day with their lights ON??? Why don't we just turn on the street lights as well. Safety concern my @ss. Drill a hole in the side and install a single LED. Finished the steering rack rebuild. Just waiting for the boots to come in. Decided to just replace the shaft inner end main bushing, with a single keyed-top brass "slide fit". Machinist said tolerances were good on the rest. Greased with "red tack". With everything back together, it's like new, very tight. With boots, rebuild is about $200. Wanted to put a spacer on the top of the pitman arm, but can't get it off. That one was too good.
Worked a bit more on the air systems. Two breathers off the valve cover PCV. One hose off the cover runs through PCV valve direct to intake manifold. The other larger free-flow hose runs direct to the air filter box. K&N OCV filter is on the way for one port off the valve cover, second valve cover port and intake manifold port will both be "capped" with blow-off sleeves. Also, took apart the OEM air box to confirm vacuum line functions, before installing custom K&N air intake filter (mass air flow increase). Found my first "made in canada" part. The hot air flow controller. Consisting of two outside lines (side-by-side) and one inside "sense" line, placed in the direct "in flow air" plenum. Also, a "T"ed vacuum line plumed to an internal "cap-valve" with thermal components. I don't want to get too complicated, suffice to say, that if you are not running OEM air box and/or exhaust heater hoses are not in place, things are not going to operate the way they were designed to. When things are all warmed up, the capped valve opens the line, sucking in air from the box. This dumps the air flow valve to strait air, and also leans the engine by doing so. Hope that's not too hard to understand. Anyway, changing mine to the K&N system, the vacuum line will be plumed to the filter with check-valve only. No loss of boost, sightly leaner during cruise, slightly richer during boost. Will the fun with this toy never end?
Jamar VS Jomar Parts are starting to come in now. Boots are in, rack is done. Thanks West Shore. The Interceptor meets the Performance brothers, Jamar and Jomar. One is a bit of a "stickler", the other, you can't get around him. heh heh...op: Let the build begin. Progress to follow...
It is. That's the Jamar unit for the front. To be used for a Manual Traction Control. Tight donuts as well I've got quite a few hours into it already. Changing metric line ends over to standard, double flare to pipe to 90s. Stuff like that, just tedious.
... Here is the unit ready to be installed: And, here is the Jomar component. If you search "jomar performance" and look into their oil filter, they have a nice little write-up about by-pass elimination in conjunction with oversize application. Lots of stuff on the net about it, including the application cross to hydraulic filtration vs lube (auto oil). Interesting stuff. This is the WIX cross. Filter most of the oil most of the time, and by-pass some of the oil some of the time, or just filter it all, all of the time.
Can't wait to see those brakes in action...I like the idea of a larger filter,and will be speccing one out for my truck once I fine some time...
... Another one bites the dust... Does it work? HELL YES. Better than I thought it would. Over sized for sand rails and rock climbers so, just a little pressure on the lever will put some friction on there. Steering wheel, not required. A two finger pull will lock-up the right at 20k, but it is very much a "feed back system". The lever tells me what's going on and I can "feel" the condition. Pressing the brake pedal, under brake-boost, will "over-power" the brake-lever, and it is forced into the "neutral" position. Can't fight it. Not sure how to "shoot" the MTC aspect. I'm thinking; chain the truck and jack the rear in 4WD, and "flip-flop" the fronts. A "one front spinning" condition, is no longer a factor for the interceptor. Donuts are dam wicked too now. Just rotates around one front tire; tight. Either or. Way more versatile than a "lunch-box-locker". Way more fun too... Next up; a hand full of mods, 4130. One, will space the steering. The other two, will mount the slider, where no one has thought to mount from before. Are they the same? Close...
i have to say that this is the best tread on here spaner ur always coming up with a new mod everytime i get on but on a diff. not thanks for the rebuild info on the steering my needs it
... Thanks, Jonny, I'm on to the slider...then Summer... After May 24, I won't be around much, so feel free to ask any questions ...
Found a few more ponies in the K&N, 5+. I decided to eliminate that one vacuum line running to the stock air filter housing. Just runs better. Donuts are so much fun now. I can stay in one spot and spin fast enough to get the diff lock to go auto-off. Giggles... No problems with the custom oil filter. Slider should be done in a week or so.
I've been talking about doing a slider for the truck for quite a while. Just haven't gotten around to it. Higher priorities. Just realized, that no one has asked me why call it a "slider"? Isn't that the same as a "skid plate"? No, it's not. I wanted something that would slide the front end up ditches or hill faces. My own design for this application but I did get the idea from a combine, years ago. Welcome to the world of UHMWPE self-lubricating polyethylene (TIVAR) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAbmLKqY7qw&feature=endscreen&NR=1 http://www.youtube.com/v/STaLSEdLveI&hl=en_US&fs=1& From hockey rinks to bushings, this stuff is everywhere.
Hey Wedge, Not sure in your province but I've got a few emails out to different plastic corps in the Toronto area. I was trying to source a half sheet, like 24" x 96", but now I think that I'm going to just go with a full sheet of "Tivar ECO", or some "88"...Grainger Supply can bring in full sheets, (48" x 96") or (48" x 120"). Stuff's not cheap but, none of my mods are.
.... So, you guys aren't going to believe me, but I'll tell the story anyway.op: My buddy pops by today to check up on me and we get to talking about the K&N aspect of the spring mods. K&N this and that, he says "no way, you got 5+ HP out of that little motor", and I says, "well, I just checked it in the yard here" (about 400 yards of room) "and it seems good". He's one of those K&N haters. So enough is enough, and despite having a half built slider hanging off the front of the truck, and no front cover(bumper). We take it out onto the highway. Well, after first gear, we're both doing the "googly eyes" thing. That's not 5+ HP man. I don't know what I did. K&N master lung, eliminated a vacuum line, opened the crank case, and put a custom oil filter on it. That's about it but 0 to 80 is down to about 7 seconds and the truck sounds like a friggin kazoo on acid, not exaggerating. First time that I've been concerned about blowing the engine. I figure, the crank case was getting pressurised, and the stock air breather was choking-up-the-works? I don't know, I guess I'll have to do another video to be believed. So, we get back, and I say "so what do you think about K&N now"? and he says "well, it worked for your truck but, they don't work on dodges..." Go figure... Anyway, Slider Progress... This is the pitman arm spacer... One of the spacer bushings on the mounting rod. RH mounting bushing pressed into place. That's 4130, pressed into the frame rail... Side rail mounted... Side view, final mounting... Front Slider spacing... Now, I've got to weld up a whole bunch of vertical bolt mount supports, but gives you a good idea of what's going on...
Hey Spanner.. Was wondering if you could tell how you post those enlarged photos.. thanks for the tip on oil catch cans i might have a go at the one you were looking into.. made something similar and catching lots of water. rev on
