1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Super Charger Build

Discussion in 'Performance' started by spaner, Jan 21, 2010.

  1. o8k

    o8k Member

    Convert it to a 6-stroke! But if you do the water thing.... Just try to avoid Hydrolock um-k :D and if you cant avoid... Take pictures :D
     
  2. Thats the spirit,
    good old ingenuity. We have plenty of Subaru superchargers laying around, might have to get on the band wagon (once it warms up here in Japan). Carburater may be a bit tough as altitude for some people may be an issue. Going with an EFI solution may be easier as the computer can compensate ignition timing during boost with a proper MAF sensor or density monitor.

    Cheers,
    Don
     
  3. MiniBrutes

    MiniBrutes Member

    EFI would be premo but can be a pain and expensive.

    I HAVE an F5A Supercharged being rebuilt right now. I will have to look closer at the setup when I get it back. I dont think there is anything special for enrichment.

    It is a pull-through OEM setup. No intercooling. This 550 should be good for about 55hp. 10 more or so than a 660 NA and yes, about 50% over a regular 550.

    If Don will sell some of his blowers for cheap, that would be a good route. Its already the proper size for the most part.

    Just set your fuel for WOT and only drive pedal to the metal ;)

    If I had to guess, I bet its set up a little rich at idle. It ran good before we tore it down, but the head was so pitted and corroded that I decided to get a different one. A little tough to find a good supercharged F5A head.....

    The engine is still in Asia. I picked it up when I was there in October. I think its actually done now. Just need to have it shipped.
     
  4. MiniBrutes

    MiniBrutes Member

    To lower the compression, Alto Works pistons are dished. Or, you could machine the top of the pistons a tad if there is enough material.
     
  5. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Thanks for chiming in there guys:pop:

    Yes compression can be lowered by various means, but I don't think that it would be necessary; considering the factory SC model of the F6A and the Practical BOOST level...

    The mixture enrichment, I had hoped that Minibrutes would confirm, but it can be controled with the choke system on the NA systems....

    For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture - given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane).

    An "ON-DEMAND" system may be controlled by vacuume activation through relays to control BOTH a clutch belt drive and an enrichment/choke combination. Giving FULL Practical BOOST at all RPMs...and the applicable torque increase in all gear ratios.

    BASE LINE mixture, can be set via the stock mixture setting, RICH; around 10-11; at idle, and low vacuume operations, and the BOOST mixture would run slightly LEAN; around 16; for PWR and torque requirments, considering a choke control system.

    Don shout-out...

    You have to email me back buddy..

    The availability of the replacement stock A/C clutch pulley is the deciding factor, for the use of the AMR300; or better yet, the AMR 500...

    It can be machined for mating on the unit, but the vacuume controled system cannot work with a direct drive system.....


    Do you want these guys to go with a bolt on system, or a turbo suzuki sprint replacement?...:eek:


    ...
     
  6. Sorry, been working on some Mitsubishi Jeep projects lately and haven’t had time to look for the 4” AC pulley ( Must be a few hundred laying around the shop…LOL).

    Yes, the electric clutch from an AC compressor is the way to go. I will still go with the EFI and not carbureted engines. The Subaru supercharger output duct is easy to modify.

    Simplest solution:
    1. Subaru supercharger
    2. AC Pulley
    3. Any EFI Engine

    You will also need to increase your tailpipe size. I learned this trick from James (Mega gearhead) Just increasing the tailpipe size a 1/2” puts out another 12lbs of torque at 4500rpm. Since we have a ton of superchargers and turbo’s here I guess I have no excuse but to start building one of these too….

    Cheers,
    Don
     
  7. Little Dumper

    Little Dumper Member

    If I read your post right on the fuel mixtures, you've got it backwards. You want to be between 11 and 12 AFR under boost and 16 while under light cruise. Idle usually likes just north of 14.7. With a super charger you also want to make sure you don't go richer than 11to1 as it will shorten the life of the unit faster than it would with a turbo. Fuel contamination in the super's lube system is easier to do.

    You know, you could always go with propane, there are mixers that have more than enough capacity, you won't contaminate anything if you go too rich and it has an octane rating in the neibourhood of 105 pon (110 ron in Jap-speak). The missinformed stories of reduced power and milage are just not true (there is a slight loss of milage, but power....not a chance). When propane was huge in Canada back in the '90s, I took cars and trucks that had systems on them and gave back the power and milage that was lost while I was working at a local speed shop. Companies would put the systems on but not really tune for the fuel, or at least not nearly as agressively as they should have. With the octane rating you can really push the envelope and have no ill side affects.

    I may just skip the FI and just do propane or turbo/propane once I get my mini (it's on it's way.....yay!). A small system like that for a carbed engine should only be about $1500, ditch the spare with the gas tank and you could stuff a set of manifold LPG tanks in there 40% larger than the orig. gas tank to give you more range. Another side benefit is engine longevity, you can get diesel like km's out of a propane engine. A crew transport van that I ride in to travel from Vancouver to Boston Bar was just taken off the road because the chassis was too far gone, it had 976000 km on it, the engine had never even had the valve covers off of it and used no oil, ran like a champ. Propane is about 45 cents a litre here.



    Jon.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2010
  8. If you want to go propane most mini trucks & vans could be ordered with it. Easy to do on the old Mitsubishi's and Subaru's. Fun to play with....

    Cheers,
    Don
     
  9. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    For what it is worth, I was here in Japan in the early 90's when the grass roots forced induction craze was going on. We turbo'ed several vehicles, and the process was nearly always the same.

    For starters, the compression must be reduced considerably.. we were lucky, as the race shops here offered larger metal style head gaskets up to 2mm thick (which was the standard we used, since most stock units measured in at 1mm or slightly under).

    On carberated cars, we had a carb guru who could modify the jets properly on the stock unit, or Mikuni sidedrafts (which we used in a 400hp 240Z turbo car). Another option was draw thru, with carb mounted on compressor inlet (negating any intercooler). Yet another was "boxing" a carb, which allowed for the proper function, but gave more design headaches.

    EFI vehicles got treated to a larger fuel pump, and an Additional Injector Controller (AIC) like this model..

    http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=638

    The older models had a stand alone boost sensor which plugged into the intake plenum, which sent the signal to the controller. More boost=more fuel.

    The only thing on the factory setup after that we modified was the MAP sensor had to have a one way valve attached to it to avoid it seeing any boost (it took offense to boost). Any boost going to it was bled off, and it would see only vacuum.

    Nowadays, everyone here seems to run aftermarket controller systems like SDS and Haltech.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2010
  10. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    You guys are no fun...:(

    I'm going to start a new game while I wait for my AMR 500..

    It's called NAME THAT PART

    1) has to be related to the thread
    2) you have to know what it is and how it is (or could be) used
    3) you have to know where it came from or how to get one

    I get to start
     

    Attached Files:

  11. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    :sly:
    OK, maybe that one was too hard.

    That is a MIKUNI mechanical pump and variable control injector.
    The integral pump drives off the engine to increase output as the RPMs increase.
    The cam is lever controled and runs from 120:1 to 20:1, adjustable from the throttle. (TPS for you EFI guys ;))

    Came off of a 1975 SUZUKI RV90 autolube system; keepen it in the family :cool:
    I talked to a few "expert" venders about a solution to machanically control mixture and or occtane level under boost VS normal driving conditions and they said that "this does not exist; you have to go with EFI for proper control"
    OK, what ever...I got it and all related parts for FREE BTW

    Chommon this next one is easy...
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Acerguy

    Acerguy Moderator Staff Member

    This is fun.:pop:
     
  13. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    Labels on the pics sometimes give it away. :)
     
  14. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    :pop: AMR 500 is IN; thanks Gordon, very nice customer service..and daddy does like NEW, from the factory...

    Electric control engagement, choke enrichment, occtaine 104 injection...
    Altinator crank pully drive; 4 1/4 VS 2 3/4 A/C....0.5LAMR VS 1L M62...

    That..that's all folks..:cool:


    .
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 4, 2011
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Ho, she fits sooo...good...
    Removed the altinator...bottom mount 2-3/4"..shaved the SC mount to fit (1/4")..NICE
    Belt algnment is good. Intake piping 2.5"; carb placement..NICE, just over the AC pump body..driver's seat clears.. alignment is just parallel to the center shift cover...nice pulley distance from the crank....engine rotation and charger mass air flow correct....
    Just one problem...the SC is UPSIDE DOWN...the gear box lube fill port is on the TOP..

    Is it OK to mount a super charger upside down? :eek:
     
  16. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    According to this it appears to be ok.
     
  17. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Thanks,

    Yea, I've been looking around and there is not a lot of written material about it. Orientation seems to be an after thought, and I end up searching pics and finding just about every orientation possible for the ASIN, custom and factory...
     
  18. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    It's just too much fun...

    Some day it will be done but I keep getting new ideas and finding new gizmos to include, and when It's done, It's over..:(

    Just too much fun...

    If anyone has any knowledge of clutch pulleys, that's kind of bogging me down right now and I'd like to move on...

    ...
     

    Attached Files:

  19. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Well, well, well....

    ..
    Here I am, working like craze to come up with an original idea, using the MAD MAX (custom) configuration for my build....

    and I come across this...

    http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htm

    Never underestimmate the greed of the venders...the work is done for you...

    Execept, mine is going to have a custom snout..:cool:..so I can bolt it right to the huffer...:D..and get a "DIRECT" system-off, suck through..

    I guess I won't bother posting any clutch pulley or snout configuration specs, as anyone can just order a clutched charger direct...
    ba#$%@&!...:sly:

    N.B>>>go with the 6 Ribbed serp belt;; coeficent of friction...;)

    ..
     
  20. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    ribbed for your pleasure or hers ??;) get cracking I wanna see that sucker scream:)
     

Share This Page