Yes I have searched and all I have found is use mitsubishi struts (no part numbers), kyb part numbers that dont even show up on their website much less cross reference to something else, put on afco springs (I have but my strut is leaking oil), or a 500 dollar strut that some of the dealers have. there has to be a strut that will work on a hijet (1990 model) that you can get from a local parts store. what have you guys found?
Short answer is "no". Long answer really is based on the problem. Is the spring old/bad/bend? Is the shock part no longer working? Is the whole strut bent (accident) or something? You can replace the springs (Jegs #122-10-250); there's a post on the site (look for 'spring') that has all the pictures on rebuilding the shock part of the strut; if you have to replace it because it's bent or something contact G&R at www.grimports.com (they'll probably have a used replacement) or another used parts place. Good luck and keep us up to date on what you do.
Actually you can buy replacement Hijet struts now at Rockauto..they ship them direct from England,where they are used to this day on the current Piaggio Porter...see this thread http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=9726 rebuilding the strut is only an option on some of the older Hijets ..most post 1990 Hijets use a sealed unit
If your front struts are like mine, you can rebuild them. I have a thread in the Daihatsu reference section.
took the lift off the front and put on afco springs (23250) but drivers side strut is leaking and making a "clunking" noise. dowat, I read your rebuild post. good read but my struts are sealed, does not look like you could rebuild them. fupabox, the struts in the pics you have look like the struts on my hijet. just to make sure, the part numbers you used were 633118 and 633117? 60 dollar shipping for an 80 dollar part kinda sux. have a friend that works at an alignment shop. may try and give him the part numbers. I ran the numbers that were on my stut and the rock auto numbers on the kyb website and nothing comes up. thought that was strange. ran the part number 633117 on google and came up with this website. http://www.dinol.mk.ua/i_catalog_DAIHATSU.php not sure what language that is, but I found my part.
At the opening page at rockauto where all the brands are listed in a long column..look at the top left of the page, you will see a bunch of flags..check them all to search for parts in all European,Mexican,USA,Canadian markets...then select Daihatsu....year 1995 or so..doesn't matter as the hijet has been sold there in the same chassis/body as the s83 since the 1980's ..and continues to this day..only difference is engine/tranny and electrical...
just for giggles the price for the strut from the Russian site you linked is $552. USD the rears are va deal at $291...must be a mistake those prices can't be right. Manufacturer Product Code Product Name Delivery, days Availability Kolichestvovo Price USD. Add to Cart KAYABA ***** Shock absorber, rear axle 7 Order 291.96 KAYABA ***** Shock absorber, front running 7 Order 552.28 KAYABA ***** Shock absorber 6 0 648.91 KAYABA ***** Shock absorber 6 36 1286.16
KYB struts My 92 s83 was bottoming out, and I decided to replace the struts. I ordered the KYB units 633118 & 633117 from Rock Auto 89.95 each plus shipping. Super service, had them with in a week which is great considering they are shipped put of the UK. They are a direct replacement for the OEM units. In fact the old struts are stamped KYB. My truck had a 2" lift kit installed, but after reading the post here on the Jegs 250# springs I also ordered a set of them at 39.95 each they are a steal. Again another super company to deal with fast shipping and great communication. Just for fun after I installed the right hand set of springs on the new struts, and left the lift kit off, I lowered the truck, and the side with the Jegs springs and new struts was 1/4" higher then the left side which still had the 2" lift stock springs and original struts. So I removed the lift kit on the left side when I installed the new struts and springs Big improvement in ride no bottoming, and the same ride height. Bill
Bill; is your 92 a 2wd or 4wd? I have a 93 Hijet Jumbo 4wd. Will these struts work and I have a 3 inch lift on mine.
Mine is a 4wd, not sure if there is any difference in a 93. Rock Auto's price has gone way up, maybe because of exchange rates?? I'm sure there is someone here who knows if they are the same. Bill
Don't want to sound dumb but is a S83 2wd or 4wd? I have a 1993 Hijet Jumbo 4X4 and I want to order struts will these part numbers work on a 4wd?
The local welder that did my lift and other modifications (wheels, bumpers/receivers etc.) told me the clunking I hear going over every little bump was due to worn out struts. I have new springs in front and shocks in back. He had trouble finding a US supplier and said ordering them from Japan would be $1000. I googled around and found several for s83p Hijet for about $240, and then read the post about Rock Auto and tried to find the strut there. The problem is a bit of ambiguity about the year and their way of cataloging parts. I'm not exactly sure what year my hijet is. The seat belt says 91 but the previous owner thought it was a 92. I have all the tag information but can't really see any other date. But the Rock Auto catalog seems to make some distinction cut off between 91 and 92. I called them on their 800 number and talked to a friendly guy who said I needed the OE number. Other suppliers use numbers like 48510-87540 and 48520-87540 for the s83p struts. Rock Auto has struts with numbers of 633118 & 633117 for about $79. Given the ambiguity of my year model, probably a 92 or 91 (with 91 year seat belts), how do I know if the Rock Auto $79 struts will work, or if the KYB ebay $225 part 48520-87548-000 struts are what I need? Also, is there any chance that the problem is that the springs he installed are not heavy enough and that the struts are actually okay? He thinks they were 250# springs and told me the struts were not dampening, but being new to all this I'd like to know of any simple test to distinguish. I took the truck down a grass lane and it thumped over every minor depression.
I find it a little difficult to think that the clunking noise is the strut, as their not exactly like a car strut. Generally, the top of the strut mounts into a round slot at the top and this holder can break making the clunking noise in a car. In the mini their a bit different and the top of the shaft only goes through a hole. Could be, but I don't really see it. I would trust the seatbelt for the year, but couldnt you order two sets and return the set that is not correct? I also don't think the problem is that the springs are not heavy enough. 250 is plent - except for maybe your bumper adds too much weight. I upped mine from 250 tp 300 because of the extra weight of the grill guard and winch I built. But I don't think the clunking is the strut.
I've written to the mechanic a few times about the springs, thinking perhaps I misunderstood what he told me when he dropped the truck off after doing the other work. Somehow that part of my email to him didn't get answered yet so I'll have to try again. Since the only mini-truck I've ever seen is the one I've owned for a year, I don't have anything to compare, so at this time I don't know if the springs I have are stock or beefier than stock. I had been assuming the originals had been replaced with stronger ones, but I don't notice much difference now in the clunking compared to before the modifications. Last year, when I was on the grass lane with an empty bed, it clunked going over small bumps, and when I had the bed full of firewood, it clunked exactly the same way. And now it seems to clunk the same, but I don't have any objective way of qualifying that. I don't know what sort of test or exercise I could do to narrow down the cause of the problem. Regarding the struts, my inquires and left me more confused than when I started. I've been told that earlier S83P hijets had shorter hydraulic struts and later ones had longer gas struts, and that I need the gas struts. When I repeat what I've been told, I get conflicting information. I don't object to trying new struts and heavier springs, but I'll feel pretty silly if I go to that expense and spend the time doing it, just to find that nothing has changed. Does anyone know about the issue of early s83p hijets having hydraulic struts and later ones having gas struts?
Those are definitely aftermarket shock, although I can't tell by looking if they are 250 or larger. I assume the noise is coming from the front and not the rear. I am a little concerned about the bend in your springs (at least an apparent bend in the photos). There shouldn't be a bend. Also, on both the top and bottom there is a location where the spring stops (hard to explain, but kind of like a half-slot for the spring. I guess it's possible that if the spring is not seated properly (e.g., the end of the spring is beyond the slot) it's possible that it is moving and that's the clunk. I would remove the whole strut assembly, bang on the spring with a rubber hammer and see how much it moves. I'd then see if I could bang it around to make sure it's in the slots properly. If that doesn't change the bend in the spring, I'd disassemble the strut and put everything back together. *WARNING* - do not try to disassemble the struts without the spring fully compressed and held in place! It will cause a lot of damage and possibly injury or death if you mess this up. The first time I did this I used straps to hold it all down. The second time I took them to an ATV repair shop and they did it for a few bucks.
one thing to check for is the front diff mount. the bushings will wear down and get a bad clunking noise to them. I replaced the struts on my hijet ( they were shot) and the clunking noise was still there. you may try to get the truck on jack stands (on the frame) and then place a floor jack on the front diff. just take a little pressure off the diff and see if the bushings are loose.
the 2wd hijet had a longer strut than the 4wd...from the photo it appears the spring installed was too long..it should be a 250lb 10 inch spring..that spring in the photo is compressed way too much and the rattling is most likely from the coils touching..coils should never be piled on each other like that..there should be space between each coil..my guess is that is a 12 inch spring... the struts on rockauto are the ones that will fit the s83p 4wd
Fupabox, a neighbor friend came over this morning and went for a ride with me over the bumpy grass lane to the woodlot. We both thought the front was bottoming out when we heard clunking (springs compressed rather than noise from strut when spring was expanding). After the ride I jumped up and down on the new front bumper when my friend looked and listened. Then we switched places and he jumped up and down while I looked and listened. We both agreed that the sound was on the downstroke when the spring was compressing, and my friend said that the strut was not fully retracted when he heard the sound, so he thought the lower coils were slapping each other when compressing. The upper coils were not. I held a tape measure to the spring and the middle outer diameter seems to be 4" but at the top near the strut cup the diameter seemed smaller than the cup, about 3.5 inches. When looking up parts, I see two different OEM numbers for s83p struts. One pair have numbers 633118 and 633117, the other type are 48510-87540 and 48520-87540. Do these correspond to the longer and shorter varieties? Also, my mechanic was under the impression that the longer ones were gas and the shorter ones were hydraulic but some parts suppliers told me all s83p struts are hydraulic. Are there gas front struts for the s83p hijet, or am I wasting time by trying to locate those, which he recommends? The body lift was done with mostly 2" square tubing all the way around. If I use a 250# 10" spring and the proper strut, and add a 2" strut spacer similar to the common lift kit spacers, do you think that will provide the tire clearance for my "diamondback supergrip" 8x12x23 tires and get me closer to being clunk-less or at least only rare clunks? One last question, I had a suggestion to use 225# rather than 250# springs. I have trouble believing there would be much difference. I have a new custom front bumper/receiver with winch, which adds some weight, and I'll eventually get something like a blackline snow plow, so I suppose I need something that will work okay with plow off and on. I have no experience that would inform me how much difference there is between a 250 and 225 spring, especially when sometimes I'm alone and sometimes have the kid or dog with me, the front weight could vary quite a bit.
The rockauto.com part number OE# 633118 (left one) $71. The other 48510-87540 OE number from the other strut being sold by some others was not in their catalog. I can assume this is the correct one for 4WD hijet?
i run all trails 23 inch with a 2 inch lift and springs i used 250 pound on a 98. i would so beings u have the strut space and a body lift and will be doing springs 23 should be easy to put under it. only reason i went with #250 the big bumped (80 pounds or more) i got and for the plow. beings u said u have a bumper and winch and will be getting a plow i would just go with the 250 but be warned it will be a little stiff when the plow is not on it. those struts should fit but i would wait to here it from someone else also because im not sure.
When I do a google search on parts 48510-87540 & 48520-87540 (R-L pair), i get a lot of results from alibaba listed factories in China (minimum order 100) but is says they are GAS filled shocks for daihatsu hijet s83p. When I search the 633118 & 633117 parts, like on rock auto, it says oil filled s83p strut. The minitruckgarage guys in BC canada have the struts for $79 each, but I don't know if they are the 48510-87540 & 48520-87540 series or the 633118 & 633117 series, and they had did not mention any difference between struts for 2wd and 4wd. I'm not getting less confused. I wrote to Leon Barnette at the Daihatsu help, and he thought all the hijet struts were hydraulic oil filled, not gas.
the 63317 and 63318 are the manufacturer # the other # is the factory part # 633117 and 118 are the ones you want..with a 10 inch 250# spring you will get 1 1/4 less initial compression (essentially lift) if you add another 2 inches with a strut extension you will get axle binding... try to stay at or under 2 inches total lift...the struts are all oil filled as far as I've seen..there may be an aftermarket gas option,but I've never seen one...the 250# spring should be fine with the heavier bumper and winch
My whole truck body is lifted off the drive train with 2 inch spacer blocks and plates, so I'm confused about the axle binding you mention. I was thinking the 2 inch strut spacer would only make the top of the strut revert to the original height relative to the drive train, so by my way of thinking the additional lift from the spring would only be the 1.25" and not really be the sort of distortion of a 2 inch strut space plus spring lift. I could see the axle binding problem if there was not the full body lift, because in that case it would be like a 3.25" lift. I'll attach a few images showing the body lift. Is my thinking off base?
sorry I did read that but my brain didn't process it...lol...anyway yes the 2 inch lift would bring the strut to the original height...a better bet would be to keep the longer springs you have and just get strut top post extensions to make use of the extra coil spring length... less $ more travel in the front suspension and you don't need to ditch the current springs if they are indeed 12 inch...sorry for the confusion...working nights and just woke and checking posts..brain not in full gear
I really don't know how long the springs are, since they are pretty compressed right now to the point of the coils touching each other in the bottom half. The mechanic that did the body lift just told me that they were 198# springs but didn't say the length. I'll investigate a bit more. I'm pretty sure the struts need replacing anyway, so whatever needs to be done should be done at the same time, which is why I was hoping to get struts, 225 or 250# 10 springs, and 2 inch spacers all at the same time, but I'll think about what you said.
A part supplier at minitruck.ca/minitruckgarage.com wrote to me saying he had the correct springs and struts and to use their camber adjustment strut lift. I'm a bit confused, because intuitively to me it would seem that with a 2" spacer there should not have to be any camber adjustment necessary if the whole body is lifted with spacer blocks. But since I have no previous experience with this, I'm wondering if a non-camber adjustment strut spacer would keep the geometry closer to optimum or if the camber adjustment spacer would be the right choice.
I have 2 new in the box, don't remember if there right or left but there both the same side for the 4 wd hijet. I will take $175.00 each + shipping. Phil
