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Sourcing radiator and heater hoses for a 2001 Sambar TT2

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by Rick Melloh, Jun 1, 2018.

  1. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    At 17 years old, and then some, I think it is time to replace all radiator and heater hoses for my TT2. Does anyone know a good source here in the USA? I have spent some time searching, with no luck at all.

    Rick
     
  2. Maximal

    Maximal Member

    likely going to have to remove them and take them to Napa or the like to get the hoses matched up as close as possible
     
  3. Botl01

    Botl01 Member

    Rick, if you find some lets us know the part numbers.

    Thanks,
    James
     
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Active Member

    NAPA used to have a hose with a bendable wire in it that you could bend to fit. Not sure they still have it, and don’t think they had it in the right size, (they had bigger, and smaller), but it would be worth a try. Also, the places that specialize in old car restoration parts may have it.

    Typically parts houses have the 5% of parts, that fit the 90% of applications, they are likely to see. The little truck, isn’t in that 90%.
     
  5. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    I can get you the OEM part numbers, which you can order from JapanParts for a relatively reasonable price. I just need your VIN to get the exact numbers for you.

    I bought a full set of hoses for my KS4 last year, and it was about $300 shipped for all of them. I would expect it to be pretty similar for the TT series as well.
     
  6. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    rkreneki,

    My truck's number is 172620, stamped on the chassis, on the RH side, below the deck. The cost you describe does not surprise. A muffler took four months and around $1000. It shipped from Japan just after the earthquake and tsunami disaster. It got tested for radiation at both ends of the pond. Thanks for any help you can provide.

    Regards from,

    Rick
     
  7. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    My muffler was quite a bit less than that.. about $400 shipped to my door and I received it in a week, but I ordered just the muffler portion, not the catalytic converter portion.

    The prices below are the dealer MSRP for these items, according to the 2017 parts catalog that I have. JapanParts generally charges around5-10% over these prices and then shipping is actual cost.

    The radiator itself is part 45111TC012, and is $610.
    The front radiator hose kits are X4511TC012 ($14) and X4511TC030 ($17). The fronts are kits and come with new clamps.
    The rear radiator hoses are 45161TC521 ($28) and 45161TC121 ($7). These are just the two engine hoses, and do not come with new clamps.

    Did you also want the heater hoses? There are a good number of them.. about 12 hoses in total, each about $3-20 a piece.
     
  8. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    rkreniki,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I eventually want to replace every last coolant hose on the vehicle. My mechanic has narrowed down my current leak to a formed hose connecting to a metal tube from what he calls the oil cooling block. My TT2 has A/C, if that makes a difference in hoses.
    I have a Danko Service Manual, which shows a lot of different possibilities in the schematic. I am going to have to limp the truck back home from my mechanic (took it in this am), break it down and get a better idea of which formed hose it is by comparing it to the exploded views I have available. My Danko gives no parts numbers, of course. There is a small chance I can build a copper replacement and put that in with some short straight hose sections, but things are cramped in there and diameters may not be a close enough match. Original equipment will be best. I will check out the JapanParts site and see if they have any helpful schematics, perhaps the same ones you are referring to.

    Yes, I did replace my cat along with the muffler. I had to modify the hanger system myself. Some of my parts gave up the ghost. My mechanic did a good job on stuffing the whole rig in there in a vehicle totally strange to him. He enjoys a challenge. I am generally too busy in my own work to attend to these things and many are beyond my roll-in-the-dirt car work situation.

    Regards,

    Rick
     
  9. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    My searches on JapanParts show that they do not even acknowledge the existence of the Sambar TT2. What's up with that? I registered and provided the vehicle information and they show nothing.
     
  10. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    JapanParts only lists the common models on their website, and even then only commonly ordered parts. Anything beyond what is listed, you will need to email them and ask for pricing. I have ordered from them dozens of times, mostly items not listed on their site, and their process is quite painless.

    I will get the list of all of the other parts for you later today, it will take me some time to make a single list. I can also provide exploded-view images from the parts catalog as well. These part numbers are specific for your exact model, based on your frame number.

    The Danko manual is extremely generic. It is largely based on the 1990 model, based on the schematics included. It is useful for things like torque specs, but that is about it.
     
  11. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    Yeah, frustrating, but reality. It has helped my mechanic and me a time or two. Worth the cost. It would aid greatly if I needed to put another engine in, but the current one works well and uses no oil. The darned thing will do 80 mph and more if needed. Not made for salt country though. I will lose it to the tin worms in the end, despite yearly oiling and liberal use of Black Star.
     
  12. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    I daily drive my 1992 KS4 for 3 seasons of the year. I will not drive it in Winter up here in Connecticut, as it successfully made it 26 years of its life with no chassis rust, and I intend to keep it that way. I drive on the highway on a regular basis at 110km/h, and it does that with no problems whatsoever.

    I did drive it all of the way down to Maryland last year, and on the way home on Pennsylvania Turnpike (at 120-130km/h for 2 hours straight) with a slight oil pressure issue that I was unaware of at the time.. I spun a rod bearing. Since then, I have completely rebuilt the engine, using the Danko manual so it is good for things like that for sure.
     
  13. Maximal

    Maximal Member

    just take care of the rust spots early on and its fine, my 91 was driven year round and had only minor surface rust on the frame and just the odd spot on the body. my 97 i just spray black rust converter paint on the frame whenever some surface rust starts to come up. ive put about 25,000km on my 97 in the last year and at least 15,000 of that was on the highway at 120kmh
     
  14. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    I could, but in CT, they use Magnesium Chloride on the roads which is nasty stuff. I would rather just park the truck for a couple of months than have to do intensive rust work every year or so. I have other "more disposable" vehicles for winter use.

    As for the parts list, here it is in full as well as screenshots and exploded diagrams so you can see where they go. The diagrams are for all configurations, so they do show van versions as well as truck. The itemized parts list is complete for your specific vehicle, along with MSRP pricing.

    Here is a text version of this list as well:
    Code:
    Part Name                        Annotation    Part Number        Price
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Radiator                          45111A       45111TC012        61700¥
    Hose, Overflow                    45161V       45161TC230        360¥
    Radiator Hose Kit, Inlet          45162I       X4511TC012        1450¥
    Radiator Hose Kit, Outlet         45162O       X4511TC030        1770¥
    Hose, Heater Inlet                45161*A      45161TC040        460¥
    Hose, Heater Outlet               45161A*A     45161TC220        550¥
    Connector A                       45128A       45128TC001        1440¥
    Hose                              45162*A      45161TC260        1110¥    
    Hose P                            45162P*A     45161TC270        750¥
    Hose, Heater Inlet                45161*B      45161TC050        1970¥
    Hose, Drain                       45161W       45161TC200        290¥
    Hose, Engine Outlet               45161E       45161TC521        2880¥
    Hose, Water Pump Inlet            45161G       45161TC121        700¥
    Hose, Engine Heater Outlet        45161EE      45161TC370        790¥
    Hose, Engine Air Vent T           45162T       45161TC300        400¥
    Hose, Engine Heater Inlet         45161D       45161TC150        770¥
    
    Hoses w/o Radiator total: 15,690¥





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  15. Botl01

    Botl01 Member

    Do you have the list of part numbers you used for your KS4?

    I need to replace mine on my 1996 KS4, VIN number KS4310578.

    Thanks,
     
  16. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    I was just going to give you the list that I bought.. but I decided to look up your VIN and I found that many of the parts were different from my 1992 KS4. That is probably because mine is supercharged, and pre-facelift.. Only about 3 of these part numbers were the same.

    This is a list of all of the hoses, and their dealer MSRP. As a reminder, Japanparts tends to be about 5-10% more than these prices, but is still the cheapest place I have found for these sorts of things. The whole set should be around $50-70 to ship to the states, as the hoses are not very heavy.

    Code:
    Hose, Engine Outlet        45161E     45161TA460   2880¥
    Hose, Water Pump Inlet     45161G     45161TA450   1450¥
    Hose, Engine Heat Inlet    45161D     45161TA440   1910¥
    
    Hose, Pipe Tank            45161I     45161TA430   1910¥
    Radiator Hose Kit          45162K*A   X4515TA000   1080¥
    Radiator Hose Kit          45162K*B   X4515TA020   2000¥
    
    Hose, Radiator Air Vent    45162B*B   45161TA790   640¥
    Hose, Radiator Air Vent 2  45161B     45161TA490   610¥
    Hose, Neck Reserve Tank    45161F*A   45161TA540   1450¥
    Hose, Neck Reserve Tank 2  45161F*B   45161TA730   560¥
    Hose, Engine Air Vent      45161C*C   45161TA690   410¥
    Hose, Engine Air Vent 2    45161C*A   45161TA510   530¥
    
    Hose, Heater Inlet         45161*A    45162TA160   2720¥
    Hose, Heater Outlet        45161A*A   45162TA170   2530¥
    Hose, Heater Inlet 2       45161*B    45162TA350   3650¥
    Hose, Heater Outlet 2      45161A*B   45162TA360   3050¥
    
    Total:  27,380¥ (around $250)
    

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    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
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  17. Botl01

    Botl01 Member

    Thanks a lot for all your work looking them up.

    It’s probably past time for me to replace them.

    Did you pull your bed off when you replaced yours?
     
  18. Botl01

    Botl01 Member

    The web site for the hoses you bought is Japanparts.com?
     
  19. Maximal

    Maximal Member

    not to answer for him, but ive removed them and anything major on the engine or the AC/coolant hoses is literally 50x easier with the bed off. the bed takes about 30 minutes with an air gun/impact to take off, just about a dozen bolts and a few wiring harnesses clipped to the metal and the spare tire carrier are attached to it. the metal coolant pipes are a 20 minute job to replace once the bed is off
     
  20. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Member

    Ive done a lot of jobs on my truck, and many of them are easier with the bed off.

    Having the bed off would make the rear hoses easier, but if you aren't doing anything else.. I do not think it is worth the hassle to remove the bed in that case. It would probably shave 15 minutes off the rear hose replacement, but the 30 minutes and two people needed for the bed kind of outweighs that. If you are going to be doing things like timing belt and thermostat at the same time, then yes.. I would remove the bed to make everything easier.

    The front ones are a little more fiddly and will take a good amount of time, but putting the truck up on a ramp and removing the cab undercover would be all of the access that you need.
     

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