Excellent, that explains why you needed another washer. I was concerned that the front wheel drive hubs were way different and this wouldn't work.
5mm would have probably been perfect, but I was happy with the 4mm provided by the two 2mm washers I had on hand. Next time I do the brake pads, I'll probably swap in a single 5mm washer. Another detail I forgot... I deleted the dust covers. I probably could have made it work leaving them in place, but I only had so much time and didnt want to fool with them any longer than I had to.
Scouring the internet, I found the following info for the rears: Shoes: Mazda part numbers: 1A00-26-310 1A00-26-310A ZZS2-26-310 ZZS3-26-310 ZZSE-26-310 Suzuki part numbers: 53200-50801 53210-50F00 53210-50F10 53210-50F50
Amazing write-up, I had a caliper pin rusted and seized on the front so I'll be attempting this swap on the db52t. Will update progress, seems like the wheel cylinder on the 96 swift may work. Its about 84 usd more now but seems to be good
FYI, I just did some snooping and it looks like a 90s Sidekick master cylinder for a 2 door non-ABS model is a match for the Every/Carry master cylinder. I still have to verify that it actually matches and it will require transferring the existing reservoir over and I would recommend replacing the rubber lines at that time. Not cheap, looks to be $70-100+ dollars depending on which vendor you get it from. Posting here for my own reference for when it needs replaced. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1619624&cc=1271494&pt=1836&jsn=452
Have you found any NGK spark plug wires that fit your van my distributor is off to the side and down a little bit away from the valve cover with the spark plugs get plugged in so the ones I bought they fit but not all of the wires reach the longest one is about 20 inches. I believe
Sorry got confused on responding to different post. My wires came from t he dealer, haven't tracked down a set locally yet.
@ralph peaston I looked into it and I got new wires on 500yenshop.com last time and they were genuine NGK. Very well made. https://500yenshop.com/en/yahoo-auctions/detail?id=h1101823875
Thank you and One more question is your distributor on the side mounted passenger side not vertical correct
So my right rear wheel cylinder has basically lost its seal. So will be looking to see what wheel cylinder would work based on rockauto Suzuki parts. I'll report back the parts and numbers of what I find that works. Right now it looks like the 96 X-90 rear drum wheel cylnders may work and possibly the shoes from the same model. I'll have to pull a wheel apart and measure things to order some trial "cheapie" parts. I can get a wheel cylinder for 5 bucks and a set of cheapie shoes for 7 to try out. Will report back once I get them in and see how they fit. If they work I will go back and get better parts (CENTRIC or RAYBESTOS). I will update the initial post with findings as well.
So ordered wheel cylinders and shoes from rockauto for $52.65 to do the rear brakes and replace the contaminated shoes. The plan is to drill some holes to mount the new wheel cylinders because I couldn't find any parts that had the mounting holes in the middle that the OEM wheel cylinders do. Pic below is of the OEM (on the left) next to the previous wheel cylinder I started looking at but it didn't come with the duel line connections for the right side. The parts I ordered for this project are: RAYBESTOS WC37976 Element 3 (left) RAYBESTOS WC37975 Element 3 (right) SUZUKI X-90 1996-98 Wheel cylinder - with fabrication (drill holes in backing plate) RAYBESTOS 630PG Shoes SUZUKI ESTEEM 1995-2002 I may or may not be able to remount the auto adjusters with the shoes. Not a big deal since I manually adjusted them anyway. I never had much luck with the auto adjusters working very well on any other cars before. Parts should be in Wed, so I should have more details after Thanksgiving.
So the shoes and wheel cylinders mentioned in the previous post didn't work out. The wheel cylinders were way too large and moving the parking brake lever from the old shoes to the ones was a no go. I reordered another set of shoes that looked good and had the paring brake lever attached already. They were from a 2005 Suzuki Swift+ (inly sold in Canada). These shoes also are used on Chevy Aveo as well. So an easy to get part. I decided to use the original Swift wheel cylinders I bought at the beginning of this thread. Using those wheel cylinders will require changing the brake hard line routing so that each wheel has a bleeder instead of the OEM practice of only having the bleeder on the passenger side. I also had to drill some different mounting holes in the backing plate to get the wheel cylinders mounted up. Details on what I did follow with pics. Parts for the rear drum brakes: Drums (already using these) RAYBESTOS 9717R Drum SUZUKI ESTEEM 1995-2002 Wheel cylinders CENTRIC 13448101 2 - with fabrication (drill holes in backing plate) and add spacer and seal with black silicon SUZUKI SWIFT 1996 Shoes BECK/ARNLEY 0813257 Shoes (better shoes have an indent to glide on the stand offs in the backing plate - RAYBESTOS) SUZUKI SWIFT+ 2005 shoes have the emergency lever attached. Note Chevy Aveo also has the same hardware for drum brakes. ACDELCO 18K1775 Drum Brake Hardware Brake line 51" 3/16 brake line from Oriellys Brake line tee From amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPJTGFRB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title The wheel cylinders was pissing fluid and you can see the mess here I proceeded to dismantle the brakes by removing the offending wheel cylinder first and taking a quick shot of the existing brake shoe installation for future reference. I determined that I needed to drill new holes to mount the cylinder at the right spot for the shoes. I also had to add a spacer behind the wheel cylinder to have it meet the shoe toe squarely. I had to modify the initial holes a bit to get the wheel cylinder lower to that it cleared the drum when it was installed. You can see I tried shaving the cylinders down some but that wasn't enough to clear the drum. So redrill it is. Holes Spacers (kind of rough but gets the job done) Wheel cylinder mounted and ready to go. Next up the brake lines need to be modified.
The original rear brake line that runs across the axle will need to be cut in half and a tee put in place. Then a hard line from the single rear softline will supply the tee with brake fluid. I added the tee and mounted the lines back up on the axle. This pic also shows the new line in place but I had the fab that up as well. The new line I have wheel cylinders and lines now I just needed to get the shoes mounted with adjusters and springs. Note, the auto adjusters are not there. Not a big issue to me since they rarely work well anyway. The drum hardware is a mixture of old and new. This is what I used to mount things. The top spring is a new spring from the drum hardware kit I got along with the shoes. It is modified at the end on the right in 2 ways. The arc of the hook on the end was clipped off about 1/8" so it would go into the existing hole in the shoe. It was also bent slightly to clear the end of the wheel cylinder. Reused the existing adjuster, no changes made there. Reused the spring clips for the shoe hold downs. Used the new spring hold down posts from the drum hardware kit because they needed to be a bit longer to hold these shoes. The shoes a little bit wider that the OEM shoes, so the hold down surface moved out a bit. Reused the spring from the original lower spring for the bottom shoe springs. Note I also put brake grease on the landing areas on the backing plate. Otherwise things won't slide well and can bind. This is the passenger (left) rear brake assembled for reference. I then proceeded to bleed the brakes. Had some initial leaks at the tee and one of the wheel cylinders, expected. Tigthten things down and successfully bled the brakes. I then check to make sure the emergency brake worked and bedded the brakes in. I do need to adjust the emergency brake a bit but otherwise it all works. Total cost was under $100.00 for all of this. I spent some extra money getting test parts that I didn't use etc. Also used the cheaper Rockauto parts most of the time.
