1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Snorkel 101 - How I snorkeled my 95 Carry

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Wheelie, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Wheelie

    Wheelie Member

    PARTS:
    IMG_0071.jpg
    Uni filter I got at summit racing.
    IMG_0104.jpg
    Shop vac hose I got at home depot.
    IMG_0015.jpg
    drill hole in floor.
    IMG_0016.jpg
    best location for hole.
    IMG_0012.jpg
    fill these holes with silicone in stock airbox.
    IMG_0013.jpg
    holes filled with silicone from underneath airbox mount bracket.
    IMG_0020.jpg
    connection at airbox using stock rubber coupler and slip larger flared end of shop vac hose over it. Make sure to seal inside of vac hose with silicone due to the rib design and secure with a hose clamp.
    IMG_0018.jpg
    Hose routing.
    IMG_0021.jpg
    hose routing.
    IMG_0096.jpg
    This is the steel adapter I happened to find i my scrap exhaust bin which measure 2" then flares to 2.5" for the uni filter to shop vac coupler.
    IMG_0103 (1).jpg
    Finished for now. I plan on adding more heavy duty clamps to secure hose to truck. zip ties work fine for now. I still need to add one more hose clamp but like I said I may lower the filter a bit to more behind the cab.

    TO RECAP:
    You will need a uni filter which I ordered from summit racing, shop vac hose I got at home depot, silicone sealer, hose clamps that fit shop vac hose diameter ( there is two sizes around 2" size and 2.5"), and a small piece of exhaust tubing that is 2" OD to 2.5" OD so the filter has something hard to compress against for a good seal.
    After removing all the old heat tubes off the manifolds and removing everything up to the stock air box I drilled a 2.5 in hole in the floor and routed the shop vac hose through the hole and slit some small diameter vacuum tubing around hole in bed to protect shop vac hose from chaffing. I reused the stock rubber coupler on the air box which allowed me to slip the larger end of the shop vac hose right over existing rubber coupler and it acted like an adapter for a tight fit. I used silicone sealer between the two and a hose clamp to assure water tight seal. I also used silicone in the 4 small holes I found in the stock air box under the factory mount bracket. I also had to use some foam backer between the lid of the air box as mine was missing the seal. I then routed the snorkel hose up and cut off remaining hose. Know that the diameter of the hose is now smaller and is only larger on the very ends. This is ok. Just find a piece of steel tubing or pvc that fits inside the top of the filter and inside the shop vac hose and then use some silicone on the connection to the shop vac hose and use hose clamp that came with air filter for top and your done.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
  2. Wheelie

    Wheelie Member

    snorkle.jpg snorkle 2.jpg
    I lowered the filter a bit and upgraded the zip ties to 2.5" cushion clamps.
     
  3. a260070

    a260070 New Member

    This was helpful, thank you! Have you taken this in deep water? No issues? how to cap off the hose coming from the exhaust that hooked to the plastic part that you removed? If you cover the vacuum hose with your hand, does your engine stall out?
     
  4. toddstang

    toddstang New Member

    Bump for answers to above and also is that a rear mounted seat?
     
  5. Wheelie

    Wheelie Member

    Hi sorry, been away for awhile. I have done water crossings no issues. The hoses I had coming off the exhaust are heat riser hoses made of paper and have no air running through them. Just heat from the exhaust to help warm up the engine in cold climates. If you have any other holes that lead into the intake system they need to be capped obviously.

    Yes, that is a rear seat from some 90's ford van someone set out by the curb for trash. Happen to fit perfect between the bed rails and I only had to drill 4 holes to mount the stock seat sliders to the bed floor.
     

Share This Page