Here we go again with the suzuki shocks. I went to Napa and they said they did now show a Monroe 31000 shock. Does anyone have any updates on this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
Monroe 31000 is a good number, I have them on my Suzuki. I had to cut off the lower shock mount from the spring plate and fab up a new one made from a grade 8 1/2" bolt.
Will the Monroe 31000 work on the newer body style Suzuki Carry 1999 and newer. Does your truck ride noticeably better or about the same.
Rear might be do-able in something off the shelf. No #'s yet but would have to remove and take to auto parts and measure lengths both retracted and full extension. Lower end of shock is inverted "U" saddle that might give a problem. Front shock is way harder - strut type and probably only available from three sources. 1. OEM Subaru JDM unit 2. Aftermarket JDM unit 3. German aftermarket unit for Subaru "Libero" mid 90's - note: more than one "Libero" model and only one will fit Sambar. Either way you slice it it will be big $$$ for fronts.
Monroe 31000 works on pre 99 mitsis and suzukis and post 99 mitsis and suzukis. Probably works on others , but I have not installed them.
Monroe shocks on 1997 Suzuki w/6 in lift They worked for me. No extra fab work required, just a spacer here and there. My box showed part 31000 as you can see here. They have a very slight gas charge, but nothing that makes for a rougher ride. You can compress them by hand, but they slowly expand on their own. Your mileage may vary.
Amazing, Aeroshots, the 31000's work on a monster 6" lift as well as all the other variations? Does this mean that the 31000's come in different lengths, a series, or are they just that accommodating? My main question is directed towards Timetripper: Did you get those #s for the rear shocks? I have a 2001 Subaru TT2, with a 2" lift, that needs the rear shocks replaced. The shocks still work fine, but the sleeves are gone, gone, gone. In our dirt road and winter salt environment, they can't last much longer. I am wondering if these current shocks should have had more spacing/clearance given and that is the reason for the sleeve failures on both sides. I will pay close attention to that. This site is great. There is no way to describe the ride of this rig except harsh, worse than a 3/4 ton Dodge. Last week I hit a nightmare frost heave at 30 mph. The front wheels came off the ground, followed by the rears. Everything in the cab levitated about two feet; pens, mileage log, Tic Tacs, air gauge, quarters, dimes, nickels and pennies, etc.. The 4 lb. tool kit in the overhead storage bin (hi-cab) floated out and landed somewhat gently on my head before crashing to the floor on the passenger side. A moment later I was laughing so hard, I could hardly stay on the road. It looked like vandals had tossed the truck interior with vigor. The seat belt is an essential piece of equipment, indeed. Rick Melloh
Monroe shock has 3 1/2 inch longer travel than factory shock. Axle flip lift plus longer shackles make up the rear lift. The axle flip raises the lower shock mount about 4 inches.
hi i would like to know if u guys have any idea on which shocks i could use for my 89 subaru sambar??
Can someone tell me the size of the nut holding the lower part of the shock on. I lost one and need to get a new one. I assume its metric....
for anyone that wants or thought about an air shock the ma727 from monroe looks like it should fit. i was playing around on summits site looking at monroe 31000s and checking what trucks the fit(1970 c10 pickup is what i used) looks like the 31000 and the ma727 fits it just an ideal not for sure if it would fit our minis thou i might have to try it just for the heck of it if they dont fit i can always take them back and get the 31000(i would got to a local auto store to by them for if the didnt fit)
so i got bored and looked up the differences in the 31000 and the ma 727. looks like the ma727 is 3/4 an inch longer and its adjustable with air pressure so is someone used their suzuki a lot with heavy loads u could keep it closer to stock by uping the pressure a little might be a lil harder ride but if u have a lot of weight might keep your tires from rubbing to just puting that out there for those who have the monroe 31000 on their trucks already how close do u come to bottoming out your shocks do u have a little room to play with. in others words could i get away with the air shocks thanks all
Rear shocks for 1997 Honda Acty HA4 Any intel on rear shocks for a Honda Acty HA4 class truck... 1997. I'm actually trying to find a set of air shocks and was hoping to cross ref from a domestic shock that is cross-ref'd from the Honda 52610-SJ7 stock part number.
Hello to all, I"m a newbie here and have learned so much . I recently added a 4 inch lift to my 1998 mitsubishi bravo van . the rear shocks were topping out when hitting bumps .i wanted to change them , so i took the advice i receieved on this forum I used monroe 31000 shocks on the rear , worked like a charm. Just took off the old factory ones , simply bolted on the monroes with no trouble. I just wanted to add that this swap does work . I purchased the shocks at oriellys auto parts . 39.35 for two shocks , then had them in stock . Again the number is monroe 31000. Thanks for the great info.
Hi Keith . your very welcome . im just glad to be apart of this forum, theres a great bunch of people on here and a wealth of knowledge .thanks rich
Since the shock is 3.5" longer are you botting the shocks insted of the bumper? Or is it never an issue since no one fills the back of their bed with that much stuff?
I have upgraded from stock to the Monroe 31000. Direct bolt on a DB52T Suzuki Carry. It took a little work to get them in the bottom bracket. but no more than 20 minutes for the pair. You need 14mm and 17mm sockets and a 17mm wrench.
Ok, Looking for some thoughts here. After reading through this thread ( I know it has been around for quite a while but I'm hoping my question will be seen by someone that has been down this path.) The truck is a '94 Suzuki DD51B, this thread seemed to indicate that the Monroe 31000 shocks were pretty much a drop in replacement. I do fancy myself at least basically mechanically competent. I don't see how these shocks can actually fit? The top and bottom eye width of the Monroe's seems to be quite a bit wider and when I put them in place, even without any washers there is about 0.320" difference between the stock and the Monroe's. I can barely get a thread on the bottom one and can't get a thread into the nut on the top mount. Am I overlooking something? What am I missing?
I can't speak to your situation exactly. I don't see a reason you couldn't grind down each side of the Monroe's and make them fit. I would suggest both sides to keep the load on the middle of the shock. I can only speak to the DB52T as that is the only one that I have replaced.
MrDeerHunter, Thanks, yeah, that is one thing I was thinking, press the rubber bushings out, grind the faces and then cut the bushing shorter. Should work! Another thing I was thinking of was maybe just shorten the metal sleeve in the new shock, and use one of these: Paired with a washer to increase the head size. Thanks again for the feedback
Uhm. The eyes on the stock shock is an “L6”, the one on the 31000 is a “L1”. I just downloaded and searched the current Monroe Catalog. The only instance of the “L6” is in the table which gives the dimensions of the L or loop type mounts.
The stock mount is an “L6”, what the 31000 has is an “L1” I just downloaded the Monroe catalog, and ran a search. The only place the “L6” shows up is in the table that gives the dimensions of the loop style mount.
The people who have used the monroe 3100 just grind or cut off the r/bushings on ea.side then washer and nut its the only way they fit Regards Brian
Installator, Jigs-n-fixtures, THANKS for weighing in! Well, that makes sense then, the L1 vs. the L6 bit, just didn't see it coming in reading the thread. I suppose not really a big deal, can grab the angle grinder and slim it down. Especially if its not uncharted territory, that's the path some others have gone before. Any thoughts about the different nut approach and shortening the inner metal spacer? Have to roll the dice on whether the nut OD is close to the OD of the spacer, so it fits in the bushing, but if washered that seems like a path. They are 10 bux shipped so i think I'll try that path first as an exercise then probably end up grinding. after all i don't always listen/learn well. No the truck isnt lifted, stock height, that's another point though, the monroes would run in a ...closer to fully compressed part of the stroke. I better take a measurement to make sure they cant hard stop if they get loaded up say with a full bed. Thanks again everyone!