1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Sea Foam cured my power loss problem!

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by RrustyDawg, Apr 14, 2009.

  1. RrustyDawg

    RrustyDawg New Member

    My '94 Carry recently lost virtually all its acceleration power. I saw that several folks here also had similar problems and I read the threads to see what I could learn from their trials.

    After going through a few easy visual checks (plugs, distributor, choke operation), I decided that my problem was most likely in the carburetor. I was just getting my nerves set to begin doing vacuum checks on that "octopus" of lines when I stumbled across a few folks recommending something called "Sea Foam". Being a real skeptic, I did a quick internet check and found that most folks who try it say it actually does what the company claims.

    I figured that I had nothing to lose, so today I bought new fuel filter and a can of Sea Foam at my local NAPA store. My first step was to shoot a few squirts directly into the air intake of the carb at idle using an old syringe. That worked a bit, but I was really wanting to clean the fuel path better. I disconnected the fuel line going from the gas tank to the fuel filter and stuck the hose right down in the can and let the truck suck out about half the can into the fuel system. I was expecting the engine to sputter and die, but it seemed to run just fine at idle, so I shut it off, hooked the fuel line back up, and let everything sit for about 15 minutes to see if the Sea Foam would loosen anything up. When I started it back up, the engine ran smooth for around 10 seconds and then I got the engine reaction I had expected earlier...coughing, sputtering, and lots of smoke out the tailpipe! According to what I had read, this was all a good sign that the Sea Foam was in the system. As the engine started to smooth out slightly, I shut it off again to let the system soak for another 10 minutes.

    To make a long story just a bit shorter, WOW!!!!! My Scarry has got its pep back thanks to that stuff. Definitely cheaper than new plugs and wires and a lot faster, too. I'm sure that it won't cure every ailment, but definitely worth trying very early in the diagnostic process for mini's experiencing power-loss symptoms.
     
  2. tmikewww

    tmikewww Member

    Hey Dwag,
    How long ya worked for "Sea Foam"? Just "kidding". Good article.
    Tmikewww
    (tom)
     
  3. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Never used this stuff but heard alot of good stuff about it. Never been a fan of the mechanic in a bottle. But it seems to cure alot of minor fuel system troubles. Thanks for sharing.

    -Greg
     
  4. RrustyDawg

    RrustyDawg New Member

    Hey Tom...To be honest, I'd never even heard of it before Monday afternoon while I was reading some other posts here. Maybe I need to contact them and see if I can get an endorsement contract:rolleyes:
     
  5. Cynical

    Cynical New Member

    I've used Sea Foam for years to decarbon carburetors on 2 stroke outboard motors. Makes them smoke like a wildfire for a few minutes after you let it soak.

    I don't know if it works or not, but the engines seem to run better.
     
  6. duckman1

    duckman1 New Member

    Gotta ask about this one, decarbon carbs? Are you serious? I'm not a know it all, but have been a two stroke specialist of sorts since the mid 70's, most recently running a pwc repair business for the past 15+ years..how do carbs get carbon in them on any engine?

    As for engine cures with seafoam, if it helps anything, it may be the bad gas that is in your system. Your best off to drain all your fuel and clean your carb...no magic juice can beat a clean fuel system and fresh fuel, old gas is a killer.
     
  7. tmikewww

    tmikewww Member

    Hey "Ducky"
    What's your opinion on "Stabil" fuel stabilizer?
    Tmikewww
    (tom)
     
  8. duckman1

    duckman1 New Member

    Hi Tom,

    I do use it in situations where I can't drain the fuel, but as mentioned above in smaller engine applications, best to just drain your fuel and clean your carb every year or two. This is particularly helpful in equipment that sits around the majority of the time as fuel starts to go bad within a couple of weeks. Also any storage in light colored containers such a illegal white fuel cans causes breakdown of fuel almost immediately(if exposed to the sun). I realize in a vehicle this would suck, but if problems do arise it would be the first thing I did.
    Living in Iowa, we have alot of Co-ops, and I have personally witnessed major "crud/particles/contaminents" in fuel that has come from some of these locations. Yes, they even had "filters" on the pump connected to the fill hose. It can even happen at local stations, but I have never seen it to the level mentioned above. Not saying they are all like this, but it does happen, and will cause issues. Also Wal-Mart fuel and fuel at alot of stations that do not produce their own have higher than posted ethanol percentages.(Sorry, forgot the names, I use Standard and BP in my pump gas race Skis, Caseys in my vehicle. Was told Kum &Go was one of the worse.) Places such as WalMart buy companies excess, and lord know what else..and for some reason the ethanol in this fuel far exceeds the 10% posted,(Research done at an in state college). According to a member of the class, they found that alot of these stations had fuel with up to 40% ethanol. This equals poor performance, poor fuel economy, and possible breakdown of carb components at this level of ethanol, not to mention possible detonation and/or pre-gnition.
    I don't use ethanol at all, not worth the pennies saved, and my Toyota Rav 4 gets three more MPG with the 87.

    There is a reason I know this stuff...experience, expensive experience..haha! I'll shut up now, let's talk trucks!

    Steve
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2009
  9. tmikewww

    tmikewww Member

    When you live "smack-dab" in the middle of the "worlds largest " corn producer, you use Ethanol.
    Tmikewww
    (tom)
     
  10. slimbad

    slimbad Member

    Tom,

    If you look at the first sentence (of para 2) in the reply from Steve, he apparently lives right "smack-dab" there with you....Maybe he can let you know where he gets his non-ethanol fuel.

    As far as Stabil, I use it in my boat tank (just too lazy to drain the fuel) its worked so far in wintering over......later, slim
     
  11. duckman1

    duckman1 New Member

    The same town!!! haha..too funny. I can even tell you what Coop! Give me a shout Tom.

    Steve

    641-521-4819
     
  12. Cynical

    Cynical New Member

    Poor use of words on my part, probably due to typing and not thinking. Cleaning carbs, yes, and removing carbon from combustion chambers, yes.

    This link explains how I've always done it.

    http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/thread?id=2589

    As to gas, ethanol is a disaster in my boat. I have a direct injected 2 stroke (yamaha 150 hpdi) and it is sensitive. The Racor fills up far too quickly with water when I use ethanol. I blame the water-attracting qualities of ethanol combined with a humid climate (panhandle of FL).
     
  13. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    i threw half a bottle in the crank case and rest in the fuel tank yesterday. let the truck warm up and drove it to town. well thats about a 5 minute drive, partly highway. got into town, went to a quick lube, got oil changed out and by the time i had got there i noticed an incredible increase in throttle and pep!

    and this was on a diesel btw.
     
  14. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    Scratching my head, confused and at my wits end.

    So I bought a 1987 hijet from a friend of mine who hadnt driven it in two years. He said he had a few problems with it, but it did run, etc etc. I was wanting something to fiddle with in my spare time, so I bought it. It runs, and it drives. My problem is something that as a layman and not a mechanic, I have no idea what to do. First thing I did was change all fluids, new belt, plugs and wires, and dumped the tank and added fresh gas. Ran better, but under high throttle, its sputters and dies out. So I replaced fuel lines, fuel pump, and cleaned the carb out. Runs smoother, but still same thing, especially when the engine gets nice and warm. It's old, and its missing a few vacuum lines: one on the bottom of the choke assembly, and another that is on the valve covers. I have NO CLUE where either of those should go, and cant figure out the problem. I had the carb removed and cleaned and still can't figure it out. It also doesnt seem to have to power that everyone on here claims they have..sounds mean when you get on it in neutral, but in gear going up a hill, you have to BEG it to go. Added seafoam to the gas, and nothing. What am I missing? Also, my buddy had just gotten it back from having the timing reset, and I double checked and it is right. Anyone know what I should try?
     
  15. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    those 2 vacuum lines are your problem...you need to hook them up
     
  16. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    I figured I needed to hook them back up, but the problem is that there are no hoses hooked to them and I have NO CLUE where they are supposed to go to? The one on the side of the choke sucks air thru a hose connected to the top of the choke that in turn goes to the bottom of the intake manifold right where the carb meets the manifold. I have no clue where the other one should go once there is a hose.
     
  17. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    /Users/tyleredmonds/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2010/Jun 5, 2010/DSC01236.JPG
     
  18. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

  19. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    *sigh* mine looks almost nothing like that. Have no idea whats goin on w this thing. Im the 3rd owner, so god knows what all has been done to it. Just added pics to my profile here cause I didnt know how to put them on the thread. take a look and see what you think. Ill take one of the entire set up here in a min and let you see it. The ones on my profile here are of specific places where there arent any hoses attatched to fittings.
     
  20. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    www.minitruckcentral.com/resources/MTC+S82_S83+90.04$7E94.01_Parts+Catalog.pdf
    page 312 and 313:)
     
  21. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    YOU ARE THE MAN! Thank you, man. Will try to put everything together tomorrow...something tells me I *might* need to buy a few feet of hose. ha ha. Thanks again for your help. Lifesaver. Will let you know how it works out.:pop:
     
  22. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    and another lifer is born :D
     
  23. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    OK, so just looked at the pdf you sent...it skips from pg 298 to 500. ha ha. so 312 and 313 arent there. There is a diagram in the 500's but looks like maybe its a different motor than the one I have. hmmmm
     
  24. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    ok..this is where you call me an idiot...pdf file page 314...not the book's page. ha ha
     
  25. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    wow..according to these diagrams, my poor hijet seems to be missing more than a few parts. No wonder it has no power. I think it is doomed. Simply dont have the resources or the parts to make it what it should be. :(
     
  26. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    one of the sponsors here should be able to hook you up with a used carb...a lot of the vacuum lines run from the temperature switched valve and you could just block some off and run with the choke in the warm position all the time (would just take a bit of right foot till it warms up) depends on whether it is meant for off or on road
     
  27. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    It's meant more for off road. Just riding around in the desert. (I live in Az) It's been very frustrating as I have tried everything I know to do, and still seem to have the problems. And right now, I have been keeping the choke in the warm position, which seems to help. Since it's nice and hot here anyway, the motor doesn't seem to mind. It's when the engine warms up and is under load when I have the issues. I should take a picture and show you the motor, and you tell me what you think. I'll go take one and add it to my profile. Give me a few mins. Thanks again for all your help. :frustration:
     
  28. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    looks like the vacuum advance line to the distributor is missing
     
  29. TYEDUP

    TYEDUP New Member

    theres a hose running to the distributor that runs to the top of the carb, but i was thinking that's not where its supposed to go.
     
  30. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    The vacuum advance should run into the top of the carb...the advance mechanism inside the distributor may be sticky and not opening up....the air breather tube on top of the valve cover that is blocked off should be tee'd back into the intake manifold or the blowby may pop out a seal..check your timing as well (once all vacuum leaks are plugged)..should be around 10 degrees btdc at slow idle,...if initial timing is too retarded or advanced,that would give problems at higher speeds....
     

Share This Page