After a highway run at full throttle ( 2 km into hard wind ) , my HiJet stalled at idle. It restarted easily, but as soon as I take my foot off the peddle, it stops. Engine temperature was normal ( a bit low due to cold outdoor temp ). Only way to run is with the RPM's at about 1500. The truck starts normally when cold, but when it warms up and the high idle drops down - it stops. Is there a slow speed solenoid on this? Could it be causing problems ? Any other areas to look at ? Fuses ? relays ? Cable tension monitor ? just guessing here. Any suggestions welcome Thanks Bob Jonah
clogged low speed /idle jet in the carb...possibly the choke is not properly adjusted or the preheated air hose from the exhaust to the air cleaner isn't set to winter mode (vacuum line and vacuum motor on top of airbox...you can check if it is operating properly by removing the air intake hose to the frame on the drivers side and peeking in)...could also be carb coolant lines are blocked
I don't know about the S83 but the S80 has a slow speed solenoid that will cause it to act like that and it has a little O ring on the end of it that could have gone bad.
I would check the idle stop solenoid. It is at the back of the carb, meaning pointing to the rear of the truck and has 2 wires leading to it. When you turn the key ON, you should hear it click, meaning it is open. If you don't hear it click it isn't open and the truck will not idle. Most likely a bad ground or corroded connection. I just found a hot wire with key ON and ran a new line right to it. Problem solved. Good luck, Ralph in Winnipeg
I took my solenoids out to take pics when trying to buy new ones and when I put them back I inadvertently knocked the o ring off the slow speed one and it ran but not very well.I took it for a spin and had to tow it back up my steep driveway.Another time I had a bad connection inside the same and it would not idle and would die when I let off the gas so they will run but not very well.One good thing is tf you have a bad connection internally it is just a little stud the wire is soldered to and you can carefully cut away the plastic end and re-solder the wire.I re covered mine with JB Weld and it works fine.
Is that the sneaky little devil hiding below the shift cable, with the wires going to a green tripple plug and a hex body for screwing it out ? If so, I should be able to check it at the plug. Cheers for the help - I'll let you know how I get on Bob Jonah
The truck will run if the choke operates or you are on the gas pedal. I usually pump the pedal a bit to start and then the choke kicks in. But as soon as the truck is warm, choke off, it will not idle. Ralph in Winnipeg
Those are my symptoms EXACTLY. Hopefully this is the problem. Does anybody have a wiring diagrame of that entire circuit, so I can check it all ? Cheers Bob Jonah
I tried to figure out where those wires went and then gave up and just wired a hot wire key in the ON position to the idle stop solenoid. That was 2 years ago. Ralph in Winnipeg.
Would you believe that there is a fuse for that - 10 amp engine fuse feeds the relay to control the fuel cut-off solenoid. Mine was shot - replaced it and can now hear the solenoid clicking. I cannot confirm that the problem is totally solved, as I am waiting for a new Dist cap & rotor, but right now I feel confident that it will be OK When I get the cap & rotor on, I will let you know IF the problem persists. Thanks again for all of your input Bob Jonah
Problem solved - got my cap & rotor today and the truck works fine now - so it was definetly the 10 amp fuse that was blown causing the idle problem. Happy Days Now ! Bob Jonah
Well - not as good as expected. The fuse blew again yesterday, and as quick as I can change them they blow again - so, I must have a short somewhere ( Bugger ). I will have to take a look when the weather improves. Does anybody have any suggestions where to look first, or most likely culprit ? Bob Jonah
The weather has finally turned good, so I got to take a look at my problem - just a bit dissapointed !
There is a vacuum solenoid valve ( two hoses going to it ) bolted to the air filter canister, just above the shift cable. This has caught fire and burnt up. It also burnt the boot on the shift cable and the wires are burnt and fused together. This is obviously my mystery short circuit. I need to identify this item and source a new one as soon as possible, as well as repair my wires. Does anybody know what this is and where to source it ?? Help Bob Jonah
Hi Guys: Leon at Daihatsu help had no idea what it was, Todd at West Coast could not help and 540 views by members and still no suggestions - what up with that. So far, all I know is that it ia a vacuum solenoid valve and has something to do with fuel vapors. I should be able to get one from another vehicle, but I really need to know what controls it electrically - where do the wires come from ? Does anybody have a wiring diagrame that shows this item ? Cheers Bob Jonah
Could you maybe post a pic of your set up? My truck is an S80 but as I understand from talking to Leon some of these trucks have common components.
Sorry for the delay - had to get my son to convert this to a Jpeg - anyway, the problem is item # 195. It is attached to the air filter canister. It has caught fire and burnt itself up along with the shift cable boot directly below it., and the two wires coming to it are toast as well. Item # 105 is beside it, and was not affected. Does anybody know what these are, where to source them, and where do the wires go ??
Hi Guys: Ihad a bit of success. I still don't know what it is or what it does, but I have found a good used one with electrical connector intact - $20.00 at Carson Exports - they don't know what it is either. However I still have not located a wiring diagrame, so it looks like I will have to strip my entire harness to find where the burnt wires go - no joy there, and it will be a couple of weeks before I can get to that. Cheers Bob Jonah
Hi Guys: I thought that I should up-date this. There is a VSV mounted to my air cleaner box. This had shorted and caught fire. The fire totally burnt the switch and also the boot on one shift cable. The wires were also burnt back into the main harness ( almost 2 feet ). I managed to find a good used VSV and replaced it along with new wires and new shift cables. The truck now works great - possibly better than ever. Bob Jonah