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S80LP Hijet Speed Limiter.

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by MetalMania, Nov 24, 2017.

  1. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    I just used a bent pick as it’s a E clip and pops off easy , you’ll be making too much work for yourself by pulling everything apart
     
  2. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I'll try to attach a photo of speedo. connection to trans. This shows the speedo. cable attached to the right rear of the trans. The adaptor that it was originally connected to is just above it, it looks pretty crusty but you can see the threaded end where the cable attached to it and the other end that screwed into the trans. There is a two wire loom coming out of it that goes to the cut off solenoid on the carb.
    I hope this is clear enough to make sense. I'm a real low tech redneck and don't know how to mark photos with lines or circles etc. to make it clearer.
    The adaptor and cable mount right behind that yellow ground wire connection.
     

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  3. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    I’d say it’s already bypassed , pull the clip from the transfer case and your done
     
  4. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Ok I finally figured out how to circle the items. The top circled item is the control box that goes to the fuel shut off solenoid zip tied up out of the way. The lower circled item is the speedo. cable attached to the trans. in place of the control box. Hope this makes it more clear.
     

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  5. woopee

    woopee New Member

    My teenage kid didn't drop it. I had read this forum and warned him that he was going to be in super deep trouble.

    Actually, I think he did drop it but had a good long magnet to pull it out... so that was probably apocryphal. The next time I tell it, he will have done it when he was 4 and used his bare hands!! And yeah, try to get some of those long, angled, needle nose pliers.
     
  6. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    I think the fact that my truck is a two-wheel drive American spec means there is no high or low gear that would be present in a four-wheel drive. I removed the speed sensor adapter and plugged the speedometer cable directly into the transmission. Unfortunately, I am having problems with the carburetor flooding. The choke may be stuck. I'm looking for advice on a carburetor replacement.
     
  7. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    This is the current carburetor. Is there an option that does not require all the vacuum hoses and cooling lines?

    I found this on AliExpress. It does not have the cooling line or vacuum line parts.

    upload_2020-10-25_19-57-23.png
     

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    Last edited: Oct 25, 2020
  8. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    The 2 wheel drive S80 trucks have a transfer case that is locked in low range with a cir clip or d ring. they just don't have the front differential or drive line. It seems like a pretty expensive way to limit speed but that's what they did. This has been covered in this forum several times over the years. I personally have owne4d 2 of them and both had it.
     
  9. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    My truck only has drive and neutral. There is no reference to high or low gear.
     
  10. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    Thank you again for all of the input. I was never able to see any clip hiding up inside the case. My current Hunt is for a carburetor solution so that I can start the truck back up and test the speed after removing the adapter on the transmission case.
     
  11. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    It’s hiding in there , it’s locked out , that drive /neutral lever has a stop keeping it from moving to the high position. What is labeled “drive” is actually low in the transfer case
     
  12. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    You didn’t see the picture of what was circled in post 25 of this thread ?
     
  13. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

  14. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Like Koffer said it is in there. The markings on the shifter are there to fool you into thinking there are no options, apparently it worked with you.
     
  15. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    Yes, it has fooled me for sure. I will keep hunting but now I need the carburetor solution so I can get it running. Can I swap out to a new carb without all the vacuum lines and coolant connections?
     
  16. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I don't know anything about swapping out carbs. I've been lucky enough to just clean mine up and it runs great. There have been some guys swapping out Suzuki carbs with success but I don't know anything about that either.
     
  17. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Go ahead and install that carb., save some money, and block off the vac. lines, and re loop the coolant line, back to the head, to circulate the coolant!
    Limestone
     
  18. woopee

    woopee New Member

    Mine is the same American market S80LP, 2 wheel drive, JDA000S8000307xxx S80LP-JTRK, that came with a disabled hi speed gear inside the transfer case. You remove a $0.50 piece of metal and disable the speed limiter and then...
    1. Press in the clutch
    2. Shift to Neutral on the 4-speed transmission
    3. Take the Hi/Lo lever and pull it back toward you firmly, past the neutral position. It's a bit rough because you are meshing some big gears. This is the unmarked position for High Speed. I promise that it's there. It's just a little ways past the N position, so you don't have to cut out any of the console plastic. It just works if the E-clip is gone.
    4. Enjoy going about 50 or 60 mph.

    Actually, try that procedure before you go hunting for the E-clip. It could already be gone, so you can do it without running the engine of course. If you cannot engage the lever past Neutral, then have someone attempt this while you look inside the transfer case. It will help you locate the E-clip. (Once you drop the E-clip, you had better find it!) One trick is that if you were ever thinking about removing the pickup bed, do it now. I removed my bed to paint it and coat it with bedliner. You can see the E-clip very easily with the bed missing... you can also work on the engine, vacuum lines, filters, fuel tank, driveline, shocks, electrical wiring, and replace all of your fluids a lot easier. I eventually did most of those things. There's just 6 or 8 bolts I think. It's 15 minutes that you will gain back, and the vehicle can be driven without it.

    [​IMG]
    I am having the same issue with flooding on my aftermarket carb. I was just looking at carbs like that. My carb is marked GTX 170825 and I found one on eBay etched 160715. Those carbs all look the same. There's one on eBay for about double $$ than the others. There's another thread around here that seems to indicate that they flood and then they take a bit to dry out, then you can't figure out which is which. Stomping on the accelerator may fuel them perfectly... or contribute to a flood... when cold. I was told by a mechanic that my accelerator pump is broken on my carb ... this thing looks new, also, and I don't think I can find a repair kit. So I am in a similar boat to you.

    I think these carbs have numerous problems ... OEM or aftermarket. Check Youtube, because there's a few videos about these trucks, and one guy had a bad carb on his EF engine and you can watch it and troubleshoot along with him. Fupabox has an old video, too, of the same 660 cc EF engine. Our EB engine is similar. And there's another page that shows FOUR DIFFERENT adjustments to our OEM carb. (Click Steve's Tips for Carburetor Maintenance)

    (FAST FORWARD on this one nearly 2 minutes)

    (That's @fupabox)
     
    Limestone likes this.
  19. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Woopie,
    A lot of great info here! Nice job! Keep it comin!
    Limestone
     
  20. woopee

    woopee New Member

    My aftermarket carb had a bad accelerator pump. Now, I just barely found out what that even is... so I'm bit sketchy. But if this fails, fuel can siphon through and ruin the setting of the rest of the carb. It can also stop pumping fuel when you hit the accelerator pedal hard. (Maybe both happen simultaneously when the pump goes bad?) I don't know which happened, but a friend of mine opened it up and messed with the diaphragm (I think), and now it's starting a lot better. Since I am prone to stomping on the pedal to start this thing a lot, and the manual choke setting is likely wrong a lot, this probably contributed to at least some kind of failure mode in the pump circuit.

    I hope a real mechanic might provide some input here. I couldn't even point it out on a picture. But mine is starting way better now; no more starting fluid.

    Meanwhile, there are apparently no serviceable parts on this aftermarket carb. I think I'll have to replace the entire thing if my friend's hack doesn't keep it fixed.
     
  21. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    Mini Truck Flooding Issue Sorted! The first thing I needed was a new accelerator pump gasket. Then I needed to replace the o-ring on the fuel pump so that it would stop spraying fuel onto the engine. Once that was done, I went after the flooding issue. It was running rough because I had corroded points in the distributor and spark plug #1 was not firing. I cleaned distributor contacts and wire brushed the spark plug connector points and it fired up!. Super smoky but I think that is excess fuel that settled in the cylinders and needs to burn off. Once I get it running smooth, I will go back to removing the speed control adapter on the transmission.
     
    installater likes this.
  22. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    It's amazing how many things can cause the same type of symptoms in vehicles, just goes to show that trying to diagnose something on the internet without ever seeing the rig is nearly impossible. Glad you are making progress, you just need to bleed on it and cuss it a little more and you will have it right where you want it.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  23. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Jim,
    My thoughts exactly! All we can do is make suggestions, and try to help! AHHH, the old broken knuckle garage/shop mentality! Old School! I LOVE IT! Then when your knee deep in it and your sweetie pie comes out to check on you, and asks, How's it going! God Bless em! LOL!
    Limestone
     
  24. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Many of the carb issues are actually ignition system, or vacuum issues. As the trucks get older vacuum lines harden and don’t seal completely. And, as Kraig found out, the ignition system can corrode.
     
  25. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    I do enjoy the feeling of success when I slay the Gremlin! I was able to drive the truck around the neighborhood again which was awesome. Now I need to get that e-clip out of the transmission. Removing the speed control adapter on the transmission did not solve it so I'm back to hunting for the e-Clip. At least I know where to look. While reviewing pictures and videos in this thread, I realized why the e-clip hunt is so hard on my truck. Because I have a KING cab (it's YUGE) model, the access panel in the truck bed is very small. Getting to the area with the e-clip is not easy.
     
  26. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    I might take you up on the remove the bed suggestion. It does need to be painted eventually and access to that e-clip will be much easier!
     
  27. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Kraig, when you get a chance, update the signature in your profile page to include the information on your truck to something like Limestone and I have. It makes it a lot easier to give advice on trouble shooting.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  28. woopee

    woopee New Member

    I think I may have robbed this picture from the forum... but I think you'll like it if you haven't seen it before, especially with my "extra notes."
    [​IMG]
    This photo is another how to remove the high speed limiter clip from a left-hand-drive Daihatsu HiJet called the S80 or S80LP made for (or modified for) the US / American utility vehicle market in the early 1990s in which the transfer case is restricted to just Low and Neutral until this clip is carefully and forcefully removed. It may also be found in S81LP.

    Even the US Government modified these to run in High speed... See https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Utility-Vehicles-Daihatsu-S81LP-DRK-4x4-Utility-Vehicle-Utah/2791794 which has a not-so-subtle "H" for High marked on the transfer case gearshift and a backwards/upside-down "L" for Drive Low:
    [​IMG]
     
    installater likes this.
  29. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

     
  30. KRAIG STROM

    KRAIG STROM Member

    Another attempt to attach the photos correctly. I will also paste them in below again.
    I broke the 25mph barrier last night. I don't care what this truck CAN do but I'm not going 60 EVER!:)
    Now I need help with the carburetor. The engine will not idle at low RMP without dying. I have cleaned the carb and replaced the accelerator pump gasket. I'm sure there is more to do. I am open to replacing the carb but I hate the idea of spending another $400 on a new one or a kit.
     

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