Howdy all, first post. I recently purchased a 1996 S110P that had been sitting in a field for 3 years. Had a friend take carb off and clean to get it to run (initially filled crankcase full of fuel due to stuck float/needle valve). Also added an electric fuel pump with 1.5 psi regulator in line. Would run, but been fighting bogging issues (would idle and rev, but fall on its face when a load introduced). After much research and then just fiddling with the wet choke mechanism, I found that if I manually cheat the choke butterfly open (currently using a piece of string tied to a bracket to hold the linkage open a set amount) it runs great........other than needing to give it gas till it warms up (approx. 2 minutes). I've tried adjusting both adjustment screws on the choke side, but neither seem to actually bias the butterfly open a little (I've heard 1/4 to 5/16 is preferred). I pulled the water inlet off to the wax motor in the choke and it is getting coolant (haven't pulled the outlet off yet to verify there's actual flow through the choke). I've also verified that I have proper vacuum to the top of the choke and that the vacuum will actually cause the plunger/lever sticking out of vacuum mechanism to rise and almost meet the cam to where I have it forced open, but it won't hold the butterfly in position without having the string holding it open. I determined the screw on top of the vacuum diaphragm affects how far the plunger/lever moves up to hold the butterfly open. I hope I've articulated my problem enough that someone familiar with these chokes may have some words of wisdom. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
It is on the truck as I've been using it the way it is. I'm unsure of where the specific index marks are you are describing. Here is a picture of the choke:
The screw next to where the throttle cable clips on, is the fast idle adjustment. If you turn it, in the little roller should come forward to hit the fast idle cam. When the vehicle is at room temperature. There is an index mark on that cam. Adjust the screw to the right, by the gears on the choke to, get the roller lined up with the index mark. That should adjust the choke preload. Then, get the truck warmed up and adjust the best lean idle. The next day when the truck is cold, adjust the high idle to 1300-1400 rpm. Worked on mine.
Might be good as well to clean up the complete choke mechanism (including the little roller) so none of the moving parts are inhibited at all... I set up mine as per Jig's instructions above and it works great. It seems a surprisingly good system when set up properly.
I tried turning the screw on the left to get the roller to just touch the fast idle cam; actually backed off a hair after it touched. Then tried adjusting the screw on the right to bring the mark in line with the mark in the cam (dash mark shown in picture, I'm assuming). Couldn't quite get them aligned before the screw on the right came out so much it wasn't really engaging the bracket it was against. Idled fine and seemed to rev fine. Started to drive around the neighborhood and it would again bog down if giving it very much gas at all. Ended up bogging out and had to stop and cheat the choke open again with my yellow string and clamp. Made it home and ran well. Here's a picture of where it was before I test drove it (assumed mark circled) .
