So not too impressed today. washed the truck and first off under the windshield on the driver's side, the paint pealed off... and if that wasn't bad enough, on the drivers door paint peeled off to reveal rust spots. and upon closer inspection, one is rusted through... then get to the passenger door and there is some spots there to. So I went to a couple local autobody shops, one wont touch it cause 'they don't do rust' and the other one said best thing to do would be to fix it with fiberglass fill and rhino liner it up to the bottom of the windows. it has rusted because on the inside of the door where the metal curves down and back inside, it has a lip. this lip has collected water and dirt. thus, has started to rust. both guys say where the hole is that it looks like it was there before and fixed in a hurry before being spraybombed. now, not too happy my investment is rusting. so i like the idea of the rhino liner. any thoughts or suggestions on what to do? Front Drivers Passengers
i work with old cars every day. best thing for rust is to neutralize it. ospho or rustmort are 2 of the brand name rust converters. for the hole. we just grind the metal back chasing aroudn the edges til the cancers gone and cut it out at clean metal, weld in a new piece being sure to use weldthru primer between the parts and then coat with self etch. do the body work, prime, block, reprime if necessary, reseand if reprimed, prep, seal, paint for the rust spots that havent gone thru yet we descale with a scraper. the rust is left for the ospho to have somethign to convert. its applied with a paint brush and sits up for 24 hours. the next day it will be black and u just hit it with some 80 or 180, etch prime to seal the metal, then primer, block, reprime if necessary, reseand if reprimed, prep, seal, paint. bondo, fiber filler, fiberglass, and putty are all fillers used for dent repair, NOT rust repair.rust repair and metal work are really not that hard once u learn to do them right, most shops are out for the quick buck and fast turnover, not the long haul when u are married to a 50 year old car that came in as a basket case, has a small fortune wrapped up in it, and expected to appear and act as a new car for years to come. we bedline the bottom sides of the cars versus undercoating. do alot of regular bedliners, jeeps and off road trucks too. u still have to kill the rust before u top coat it or it will come back thru to haunt u
Ditto on the ospho. We used this on drilling rigs in a salt water environment. It will stop the rust. Read direction and follow them. Good stuff. 20 bucks a qt. @ most hardware stores. Shop it on the web and you can get it cheaper.
ya both guys said they would have to cut out where the rust is and fill it in. most guys say that they want to rhino liner it right away, and i think in this case it saved the door to wait. cause if it was a poor patch job to begin with, if it was sealed in there it would have just ate the metal up inside.
one last thought for u too. usually when theres rust theres a reason. open metal is obvious but sometimes like bottoms of fenders, doors and quarter panels the reason is that dirt, leaves and debris clog the drain holes over time and then rot the panel from the inside out. so make sure while u are in there taking care of the rust u also check to see if theres nothing else in there to cause father damage. u could vacuum out the inside of the door and treat it with ospho also and at the minimum etch prime. maybe even shoot some bed liner on the inside or just some good ol fashioned bare-metal undercoating.
Sounds 10000000 X cheaper to just find a good used door and put it on. Shouldn't be hard to find a white one.
used door? for that little bit of rust!> i think you would be nutz to buy a used door when you can fix the one you have in less then 1 hrs! if you know what your doing.
Sorry my idea of "fixing" something isn't spending 1 hr doing a patch job. A body shop will charge at least $300 to fix that including matching the white paint. Your truck will be down for days and there is no guarantee it won't come back. I'm sure you can find a used door cheaper with no down-time.
1 hrs would not be a "patch job" it would be a real fix if you know what your doing. tig welding in a new plate and sanding the door and painting it. and yes most shops will charge you $300-400 to fix. Pre sand door sander maybe 15- min of work max Cut out a patch. 3-5 min. Cut out rust. 5 min. tig weld in maybe 15 min bondo work maybe 10 min not counting drying time Sanding bondo 5 min Primer maybe 5 min. Paint 10 min.
lol trust me, the thought of a door did cross my mind! ya i can do pretty much everything up to the tig welding. closest I have is a stick welder lol. and of course, you only know how bad it is until you get in there. also, new door for a toyota lite ace? they aint exactly in stock at any import auto dealer lol
i have a tattoo artist flying in from japan monday to do ink for a few of us... ill ask him to tos one in his carry-on! either that or see if he can bring me my own personal japanese mechanic since my fat american hands dont fit where they are needed.
lol. Hyper speed? ya right. If you know a good body shop, they can do that in less then 1 hrs. But sure they would charge you for "drying time” cleanup time." then you would pay for 2-3 hrs or work.. I use to work at one and it never!, Would be more then 1 hrs to do that if it would take more then 1.5 hrs with clean up to do a little job like that I would fire the guy. There are a lot of guy that can do a little job like that in 1 hrs. Now for some one doing it at home it may take 4-5 hrs. Witch is still fine. And for your first time take your time read up a little and check out some nice youtube videos witch will help you a lot! And for finding a door for a Toyota lite ace. Good luck!!! Take your time and fix it at home. Even if you have to by a mig or a tig it will still be cheaper then bringing it to a shop. And you can do it with your stick welder if you buy the right sticks. (I done it at home a little but it is hard to get the right heat setup so test on scrap steel.)
I agree with starpuss. With the proper skills and equip it is blazing fast job. If you dont, it is daunting and overwhelming. In that case the door may be the easier route (To install, but not to locate!) But that applies to almost anything. I come from a long time in the remote starter business. I know of guys who tried to install themselves, taking days and days and still get it wrong in a vehicle that a competent installer can whip out in about an hour. If you have the skills and tools - do it. If not, find someone who can!
My last Carry, I had the door panels off, and rustproofed inside the lower part of the doors. Cheap insurance!!! I used spray on rubberized stuff, but even wiping it down with gear lube is quick and easy. I'm also gonna' do the enclosed box section at the bottom of each of the bed side panels. I could hear rust rattling around in there when I had them off. I got some 1/4" silicon tubing, and plan on using a siphon type spray pistol to do inside the frame rails too. Prob'ly just using gear lube for all of it. Messy, but effective. Motorcycle chain lube, with wax, is said to work great, but that stuff would cost a fortune!
oils are widely used to coat and protect raw metals before they are used during storage and transportation. while it works great for this its also intended to be cleaned off and coated when used. guns are the same way, lightly oiling them keeps them rust free, but u always should swab oils out before use. the problems with the oils are that they collect dust and debris which in time will build up, especially in the bottom of a dorr. this in turn will collect moisture and over time find the weak spot in the oil coating and cause rust. a stack of oiled sheet metal that has been around for any real amount of time will confirm this with rust forming between the sheets in spots. theres also an enviromental impacts. every time it rains or the vehicle is washed water runs down inside the door skins and then out the drains on the bottom side taking oil with it into the door jamb and eventually onto the ground. oil in therory sounds like a viable option but long term has negative effects
ive been in the rod/ resto business for 16 years, before it was the cool thing to do on tv. im just offering what i know,if thats funny to you so be it. if youd like my credentials ill gladly pm them to if you feel its necessary for offering a little friendly advice on a free forum to others with similar interests/ problems. this is a place for people to come together and help each other when its not possible to get the help first hand. now you can either add something creative, constructive, helpful, or even offer a correction to something in this convo you might deem incorrect, or u can continue to be counter productive, its your prerogative... every forum has the token hater, nice to meet u.
The comment was directed at those that make it seem like such an easy fix. That is why I called them "desktop bodyman". Matching the white paint alone is going to take time.
lol i got that covered. at crappy tire was a can of 'import white' and its a match! used it for painting over the rock chips on my fenders.
I love the Crappy Tire reference. I bet a bunch of our American friends are wondering WTF you are talking about. Lol! But yeah, most people who have these aren't too concerned about a "perfect match", but more close enough without spending a fortune to fix. I mean most of our customers are farmers and Hutterites. Cosmetics are low on their priority list.
