I recently got what i think os a suzuki carry from a friend. Did not run when i got and after cleaning the fuel rail and injectors it was running really good. Drove it around the block a few times (maybe 5 miles) and once it got up to temp it just started tonspit and sputter and barely made it home. Once it cooled off it fired back up and seemed fine but after about 30 seconds or so it started to spit and sputter again. This is very consistent so i dont think its fuel contamination amd think its something electric but have no idea were to start. Any help is greatly appreciated.
http://minitrucktalk.com/threads/clean-your-tanks.16763/ this is what i took out of my hijet's fuel tank.
Looks like the tank may be the culprit. I think the sock was so cruded up it couldnt suck enough fuel. Put the pump in a large coffee can filled with gas and it seemed to run good. Was trying to mount the pump in a bucket with a lid so i could drive it around and put a oad on it and i dropped the dang unit and broke of the gas discharge barb so now i guess im gonna have to get a new unit. Were is the best place to get parts from?
Any parts store.. Take your pump and match one up. EBay also but dont get a high flow one as it may be to much for the regulator to handle.
Looked at several sites last night and all I can find is the pump but no assembly. If any one knows of a place let me know.
Found the whole assembly and just the filter body portion on some Russian sites. Yahoo Japan maybe an option also but you need a someone in country to buy and ship to you.
May try the epoxy solution first. Cant hurt it any more than it is now so might as well try something other than replacement first. Thanks for the help.
Go to suzuki.epcdata.ru/carry/ (this is the site mentioned by TTC) for any part numbers. I order parts directly from jp-carparts.com. They are in Japan and shipdirectly to you anywhere in the world. I am in the Philippines and pay through Western Union as they allow me to submit the payment in Philippine Peso's and payout to them in Japanese Yen, they will also do the same for USDollar
Looking at the pic of the pump and a thought - is there enough meat there in the horizontal part to cut it off at the other angle, then thread and use a brass street ell and a tubing adapter there? Fred
Well thats what i tried even before reafing this and the problem is that the holes that go down are not round. There are two holes not one. One comes from the pump discharge and it can either go th the fuel rail or go back down to the pressure regulator and gonback in the tank. The hole is basically a rectangle with rounded corners with a piece of plastic formed in to it at an angle making two some what rain drop shapes. What i did was drill the angle piece out and shoved a 90 degree plastic fitting into it with some 2 ton epoxy that says its resistant to unleaded gas i believe its made by devcon will try to get some pics one day.
Well got everything put back together and it ran great. Went around the nieghbor hood a couple times and about half way around the second time it just died and would not start. Called my brother inlaw to pull me to the house and after he got there and we got it tied up about ten minutes later I tried it one more time and it fired up and i drove it to the house with out a problem. The temp looked to be in normal range and the fan never kicked on. So i dont know if its getting hot and shutting off and the gauge is not reading right or if there is something else going on.
No i didnt even thunk about that. How ever i did blow all the lines clear while i had the tank pulled and i installed an inline fuel filter and it was full of fuel.
my truck was having starvation issues due to vacuum build up in the tank, the vent line on the tank at the charcoal filter was plugged. I have also had issues with my gsxr after a wasp decide to plug the tank vent line with mud one summer.
vacuum leaks are 85% of carb and idling problems, use a vacuum gauge or carb cleaner, carb cleaner will send the engine to high idle if you have a vacuum leak, make sure the vacuum port in the air cleaner canister is working properly, also check that your vacuum advance hose isn’t cracked coming off the distributor to the vacuum manifold tree. The vacuum manifold tree is brass on the bottom to go in to the block and plastic on top. Plastic wears out with time and will break or leak, which causes a vacuum leak. Some manifold vacuum trees are 3 or 4 port, make sure to replace it with a new one. When I buy parts I buy 3 at a time that way I have them on hand or in case they can’t get them any more. The vacuum manifold tree is located behind the carb. If you looking at the carb from the right side of the bed, it will be to your 1 O’clock tucked down inside. Remember to use a marker or different colored tape to mark the vacuum lines so you know where everything goes back too! Good luck!’
