resurrection and restoration of suzuki carry

well i picked up a 94 suzuki carry. It has the hi/low t case rear diff lock and axle local. Has the ole 660 engine in her as well. Pretty much exactly the rig i had been looking for. Wish it had been lifted already but can't have everything hahaha. So introductions done.....when i picked it up it did.t run. The clutch was frozen and did.t have a battery for me to even see if the motor would turn over. It was used on a job on an air force base up here i. Alaska. When the job was done they stuffed it in a connex full of holes and forgot about it. I got her home. Spent some time working on freeing up the clutch. Turned out the rod sticking out of the tranny was frozen. As well as the throw out bearing. Got that all fixed. Then i worked on firing it up. The fuel pump only would pump a couple ounces of fuel and shut off. Even with the line removed from the carb. I spent a week trying to work that out. Even bought a universal fuel pump and hooked it up to the trucks wiring so it would work like the original. That took a bit of figuring since i could only find a 2 wire pump and my stock pump had 3. A little fancy wiring and a couple relays later worked like factory. Still had the same problem. A couple days later and a few thousand posts read on here i found out that was how it was supposed to work. Hahaha oh well. At least i know the fuel pump systemhhahaha. Once i got that figured out i again tried to fire it up. It would run but horribly. I thought the carb was bad or the engine was blown. Then i remembered that the corporation i bought it from had told me it was over heating. So i proceeded to pull the plug wires and plugs to to a compression check. I couldn't even pull the wires. They were seized in the holes. I sprayed a can or 5 of wd40 in the holes and walked away. The next day i was able to pull one of the wires. Woo hoo i thought. But only part of it came out. All 4 wires were broken off at the top of the spark plugs and the rest of the wires were melted to the head. A bit of fancy chisel and punch work later i got all of them out......finally. New out the holes. Pulled the plugs. And found them to be drenched with gas. Pulled the drain plug and drained the engine oil and found about 2 gallons of gas. Old gas. Most people would be upset with this. Not me. I was quite pleased. No tar. No varnish. No metal flakes. Perfect. I got my new cap and wires and installed them. Had to figure out the firing order by trial and error. Glad there are only 3 wires hahaha. Made sure it had clean fuel and filters. Hit the key and she tried to run!!! Now to save some time ill skip ahead a ways. Nothing was working right. Couldn't get her to run for long. So i pulled thwart gas cap and it flew out of my hand as it came loose. That's why the vent line was disconnected when i got it i thought.....so next i got under her and had my son start it while i worked the carb. Found out the choke was seized as well as one of the vacuum actuaters. fixed that but had to pull the choke adjuster off to free up thwart small gear and springs. Put it together. Still can't get it to run right cold. My thermal vacuum switch by the thermastat has one nipple broken off of it that goes to the choke vacuum can. I replaced the nipple made sure it sealed. The switch was broken. Does.t work. So after removing every vacuum line and testing for leaks and replacing. I found my fan electric fan on the radiator had been melted of god know how long. I replaced that. Still wouldn't run right. I pulled the 4 vacuum lines off the thermal vacuum switch and hooked them together till everything worked. Turned out thwart only thing that was working too much was the egr. So i plugged it by the egr because there Re other things hooked to it. Well the choke is my issue. Has been from the time i got her running right. So i warmed up the engine to driving temp babysitting the carb with my finger on the choke the whole time. Then i set thwart choke so the engine runs perfect. No issues. Awesome throttle responce. Great power in every gear. BUT when it coolant off it will mother run at all. I have to hold the choke open a bit to warm it up. I have reset it a thousand times with the only change being that i can either start it cold and reset when it gets warm or set it warm and hold it open to start it cold. I went with the latter since its easier to do. I used a break cable off one of thwart kids bikes and made a manual choke override. It works perfect. Woo hoo......now to find things that i want to do to it instead of have to do hahaha

 

Sounds like a great start and congrats on getting it running. Most people would have walked away. Maybe you could work on paragraphs next

 

Hahaha thanx. I sort of had my hands full but had thought about taking pics though

 

I forgot to.mention that i bought a broken one on purpose. My theory was that since no one in Alaska works on them at all that i would know how everything worked and could fix it myself. I didn't realise that info on these is nowhere to be found and that i would have to make it up as i went hahaha

 

Well our temperature got to 40 today and my override had to be over ridden. As well as reset the choke again. This will make using the mini for hunting a tough choice. Do i spend 2 hrs getting it ready to go or just walk. Sure could use some carb voodoo

 

With the last one I bought I got 3 owners manuals and a1148 page parts catalog but they are in mostly Japanese with numbers in gringo,guess you could call it Janglish.The diagrams help but it is hard to determine which model they are referring to since it covers trucks and vans from '81-'98.I guess the next step in this addiction is to become a linguist.I'm also learning there are different version of the F6A engine and all parts don't interchange.
I have a pretty good manual for my Daihatsu but it's a different bird from the Carrys so no help there.As you have found the Danko manual for the Carry gives you just enough to pi$$ you off.

 

That so called manual i got is ok if ya want to rebuild but doesn't even have the directions for doing much of that even. Just a lot of pictures. Oh well. I just can't believe that Thi choke is giving me so many problems

 

Muddymoose try this link for a Suzuki service manual..can't remember if it had carb. section in it..gotta run to work..hopethis is helpful

www.golftechs.us/Manuals/Suzuki_K6A-YH6_Engine.pdf

 

Thanx. I appreciate it. Ill check it out

 

That is an awesome manual. Its too new though. I appreciate it though. Mine doesn't have i.injection. I wish i had that motor though. I bet it has some power hahaha. Thanx again fupabox.

 

Well i tried to run her again today. The choke is messing with me still. Can anyone telle if the choke is supposed to be part closed at running temp or if it is supposed to be wide open. That one answered will help more than anything. If it it supposed to be wide open then something could be blocked or plugged if its supposed to be part closed like it likes it right now then the choke actually opens too far. I found a post a while back that said to set the choke at 36 or 34 deg c. That's about impossible for me up here in Alaska. I don't have a garage and making a climate controlled environment outside is next to impossible hahaha. And to top it off my wife won't let me bring it in thwart house to work on it......dang it........oh well......a happy wife is a somewhat happy husband i guess hahaha

 

I can't wait to get this figured out. I will finally be able to sleep again

 

Sorry i havnt been able to get on lately. I didn't mean to offend with my ignorance. Or try and jump ahead in line. I had no idea that's how it worked. I have done a huge amount of reading on here. As well as looked elsewhere for any info so i don't have to bother anyone or over step my bounds. All that said...........

The vacuum cans i speak of are the vacuum actuaters. The pull the throttle as well as make the advance in the distributor work. Sorry too many years working as a mechanic and being lazy.

I made the over ride for the choke to.make the truck run while testing everything. I would rather try whatever i can to figure things out than to just ask questions and wait. I have serious issues with lazy people. Just like i have issues with just letting something sit. Ill do whatever i can to figure things out on my own. Unfortunately there just isn't a lot of info out there about these trucks. Wish there was. Then i wouldn't have to bother anyone.

Thanx for your help and your time. Ill do my best not to bother anyone again until i know the correct names and procedure. Ill also keep my backyard caveman mechanics to myself. I posted what i was doing in hopes that someone might help or correct me not to offend anyone. Thanx again for your help and for stratening me out bud.

 

Oh yea.......that video did help thank you!!!

 

I wondered where you've been,I've missed your adventures, also busy with a wild little project of my own.Don't go getting your feelings hurt just cause some of these old pharts aren't always as polite and nice as parlor people .You fit right in here because you're willing to get off the couch and dig into the maze, people will benefit from your posts and appreciate them as much for the mistakes you make as the fixes you achieve.Keep posting your progress as I at least need to know that I'm not the only one who gets a little lost with these little tormentors.

 

Sometimes I come across wrong,
Deleted, nuff said.

 

I was wondering who it was. spaner is a mad man but he's one **** smart mad man should reed his carb tuning thread once its running might help you out or just read it anyways never know by the way welcome to the forum glad to see someone else will to run a mini.

 

Im sorry if i sounded upset. I just didn't want to.upset or tick off anyone. I actually felt bad. All the help people offer and the info available on here i didn't want to loose out on the opportunity to utilise it. I got busy again. Season is changing by the day now. That's sort of why I've been in such a hurry to get this mini fixed and usable. I really do apologise if i came off wrong in my last post. Im fairly thick skinned Haha. Hard to upset me or hurt my feelings. Sometimes we all need a slap to the face. Up here we just yell MOSQUITO!!!! And ya get away with it Haha. I am starting to figure this thing out a bit. The choke was actually messing up. It had a really small metal sliver between the plastic gear piece and the other plastic piece that goes on the back side of it. The only reason i found it was that it poked me in the finger Haha. I guess i hadn't donated enough blood to the beast yet. Hopefully soon though as i only have 2 months before im needing to have everything fixed and usable. Only one month before i have to decide if im going to be able to use the mini or make something else work for our short summer hunting and fishing season.

 

So all that said in the last post.....spanner i do appreciate your help. I just didn't want to offend ya man. Thought for sure i had. I was thinking it sure sounded like joining a biker gang...........never wanted to be a prospect just like to ride Hahaha.

Any way here is where im at.


Got the choke to let me fire up and warm up. Runs and drives perfect until running temp. When the engine is full warmed up temperature gauge in the middle the first 1/5th throttle works great and from 3/4 to full works great. Anywhere between its like i turned the key off. Gathering the gas petal changes nothing. I either have to stomp it to the floor or drive in hi rpm in a lower gear. Im sure its something plugged up in the carb. Unless those 4 hoses that hook to the thermal.vacuum switch are causing it. I have plugged them together so that everything works and plugged off the egr so it is disabled. I have yet to locate a vacuum thermal vacuum switch...........my local parts stores have lost all interest in helping me now Hahaha

 

Ok here is a recap of things i have done

New cap rotor wires and plugs. Old wires were all broken off and melted to the head. A couple hrs with a punch and some patients..........got it
All new fuses. Just because
Drained fuel added fresh new fuel.
Installed universal radiater fan. Original.fan had melted some years before i got the truck
All new antifreeze bled air.
Replaced gas cap. Original cap wouldn't vent. Kept flooding the engine. That was tough to figure out Haha
Bypassed fuel pump with universal pump cause i couldn't make her run. Found out later stock fuel pump was good. Followed bad advice fromllocal shop
Set timing to 9 deg after finally finding the timing marks Haha
Stock radio caught fire. Removed it before it dis damage. Now can't figure out where to put speakers Haha
Clutch arm was seized as well as the throwout bearing. Dry seized. Happens a lot up here. A bit of heat and penetrating oil later and i can drive her till she gets warm and i have my carb issue Haha
I systematically removed and plugged every vacuum line and tested for.leaks. Found that my thermal vacuum switch was broke and doesnt work
Reattached all vacuum lines
New fuel filters. Both supply and return.
Repaired 3/8 coolant T. It had actually melted. Im assuming when the fan melted
Drained and replaced the engine oil after filling the engine with automatic transmission fluid before i started her. Believe me works wonders for cleaning.g and lubrication. Only smokes a little when ya first fire up. Ran it for about 10 minutes with first go round of 10/30 oil then drained it again and filled with fresh oil and another filter
I do that with every engine that has sat for more than a year or two.
I think that's about all i have accomplished since last month. The carb cleaning didn't seem to help so i guess i will pull it out yet again again And see if i can get it to stop acting like i turned off the ignition when i hit the gas after the engine hits running temp. Will run full throttle and about a third but no where in between.

 

Almost forgot again. Thanx for the encouraging words!! I get so busy doing a million things at once.......Haha

 

Your ingine seem to had over-heated in the pass, since you have issues with your throttle,i would check
The diaphrarme in your carb. Mine had some pin-holes in. It ,the rubber looked like it was burn.
Just open the rond cap on top of the carb, the diaphragme is wright there.just check it for sine of pin-holes
The ingine vacuum push that diaphragme to open the main gate,and activate the main jet.
Good luck.

 

Thanx. I will go check that out. I appreciate it!!!! The last owner said that the truck had an over heating problem. I believe them. A lot of the plastic fittings in the cooling system were melted as well as the fan itself. That would be great if it is that diaphragm. Thanx again

 

My suzuki had a heating problem. (sounds like a AA meeting ) I think it's the sensor that turns on the fan. My fan motor and the sensor went at the same time. So now I have a fan motor and fan from a forgotten car in the junkyard and is wired to a switch than I manually turn on and off.

I wonder what the melting point is for the plastic used in cooling systems? You would think it would be fairly high. It would have to be crazy hot to melt the actual FAN lol. I feel sorry for your engine.

I think there is a thread where someone built a center console and put speakers in that. I made one a year or 2 ago and will post pics if nobody knows what thread that was. It seems to be the easiest place to put speakers and doesn't involve cutting your doors.

It sounds like you've made it a long ways on your project. I've been following along

Edit: I have a stock cooling fan from when my fan motor died if you want it for shipping costs. It accepts a D shaped shaft. I have pics of that too. I don't think I'm going against the rules by saying that lol. It's free. Just in case your universal doesn't fit the best. If this was 10 years ago I could have just dropped it off but I don't have any more relatives in AK.

 

I built this to houses speakers out 1/2 plywood I had around. Doug

 

Thanx i appreciate the offer daner but the fan motor sort of melted its way into the housing even melted the blade. Hahaha im sure it was a short somewhere. I replaced it with a 12" universal fan from auto zone. Just had to switch the wires in the plug. When the fan turned on it blew out the front of the truck. Haha turned out it was nice having it that way for a while because i could get warmed up by standing in front of the truck for minute then get back to work Hahaha.

Dwlb that's a cool idea. Im going to have to see if i will fit in the truck with a console. Im 6'4" tall and 230 pounds. I would have a real hard time believing that someone much bigger could fit in these trucks and still be able to drive Hahaha.

Thanx again for all the help everyone!!! As soon as we stop dropping down to 20 below zero and suffering blizzard ill be able to get back out there and do some more work on her.

 

No problem. I'm 6'3" 200lbs and I fit fine with my console in there but the cab was extended a couple inches on mine when I got it. So more room to slide back. It gets tight if you are wearing big boots but you only notice when getting in and out.

 

That just isn't right man. Now im going to be figuring out how im going to be extending my cab while working on my lift ideas to keep my mind off my carb to keep me from putting too large a tire on..............

 

The console is about 8" wide and does not intrude in foot wells. The wires in first photo come from new radio to speakers and I used the wire that illuminated old radio screen to power small led so that now the cup holders are lit up when headlights are on. Doug

 

That's way cool. Im definitely going to light up some cup holders too i never thought of that Hahaha. Thanx