My Every Joypop van had a JDM AM/FM/Cassette head unit with speakers installed in the door cards. I wanted to replace it with modern US market AM/FM/CD head unit and new speakers. I wrote some of this up in bits an pieces here and there on the forum but figured it might help other Carry/Every owners with the same project. Heres the old radio and speakers before removal (I've already removed the screw from the back of the cubby hole and popped the surround out a bit): And this is the OEM speakers installed in each door card: The OEM headunit had no brand or manufacturer marking except a faded Suzuki paper tag on the radio and the speakers had Suzuki printed on the magnet back. I suspect Clarion made the radio but I took the cover off it and there were zero identifications found on the pcbs. The radio was single DIN and was about 6.5 inches deep. The new unit was a bit over 7 inches but would fit just fine. I found this unit on Crutchfield for $20.00 to replaxce it with: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_070XDM270/Dual-XDM270.html Also some speakers and grills: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777P40B/Sound-Ordnance-P-40B.html https://www.crutchfield.com/p_068S42G/RetroSound-S-42G-Single-grille.html The speakers and grills were 2x the cost of the head unit LOL. I think Crutchfield couldn't give this head unit away because it didn't do BT or have phone integration builtin which suit me just fine. I proceeded to pull out the head unit, leaving the old speakers hooked up for testing when installed. This may differ on the Carry trucks or earlier or later years but on the van I just had to remove the screw at the back of the cubby under the radio and then pop the surround up and out from the radio. Next I removed the 2 screws you see on the brackets holding the radio in and slid it out. As you can see the antenna lead is pretty standard. Next I had to figure out the pin outs on the existing OEM plug and then wire up the pigtail for the new head unit. I did some sleuthing with a DVM and this is what the pigtails pinout looks like: A little blurry but heres a diagram of what I found: ___________________ | 1 2 |. .| 3 4 5 | | - - |___| X X X | | 6 7. 8 9 .1 1 1 | | - -..- -..- X X | |. . . . . .0 1 2 | |________________ | Legend: - A pin with a connection X An unused pin . (dots) are just place holders to make the diagram spacing The numbers are the pinouts looking at the connector and going from top left to bottom right (1-12) Wire colors: Rb Red with black thin line R Red Bb Blue with black thin line B Blue W White Wb White with black thin line Ry Red with yellow thin line Pinouts: 3,4,5,11,12 Unused (no wires) 1 - R,6 - Rb Right speaker 2 - B,7 - Bb Left speaker 8 - W Battery 12V+ (constant for preserving presets and settings) 9 - Wb Ignition switched 12V+ (power) 10 - Ry Ground I spliced the speaker wires into the new pigtail based on the above info. I ran the black ground from the new pigtail to the chassis. I got a switched 12v by splicing into the lighter hot side. and I took a 12v constant from an empty fuse socket in eth fuse box. The fuse socket connection I did with a 1/4" male spade with fit right into the hot side of the fuse slot. Works like a charm now. You could still use the 8 and 9 wires if you want to but I noticed that the switched Wb wire had significant voltage drop on it so that it was around 11 volts, instead of 12. The radio spec is 11-16v required. Those OEM wires are skinny and run through a number of circuits so you are better off wiring directly IMHO. Plugged it and the antenna in and then fired it up. Worked out of the box fine and drove the old speakers just fine. I then pulled the speakers out and used the existing pigtails to connect up the new speakers. The new speakers were deeper and hit the window if it was rolled down all the way. The good news is the old speakers already had a 1/4 in plastic spacer behind them to space them out. So I reused that on the new speakers. You can see it in this pic: I got the grills a few days later and popped them on for a finished look: I hope this helps someone else out as I had a tough time making sure this would all work in the beginning.
So I hit the flipflop power/ground issue on my radio installation. Went to head out to C&C yesterday and it was in the 20s F range, started the van and all was well but my high beam light was on and my radio would light up but not play any music. Everything ran fine so off I went. Came home and parked it. Today I'm fussing with it and I fin fuse 3 blown and no daylights or parking lights and the brake lights appear not to work. So I think after the radio install I flipped the lights on at some point and it blew a fuse. I'll update my wiring details above once I track down a good power wire.
Ok ignore what I did with the stock wiring to the plug for the new radio. This post details the issue quite well. My cig lighter uses a switch 12v, so I'll use that for the main power and I'll run the memory wire to an empty fuse socket. Looks like my fog light fuse is a good candidate, it only has one side in it and its hot (12v) all the time. Meanwhile after replacing the parking light fuse that blew it worked for a bit but now it's not working again. I suspect grounding issues. May have to take the dash cover off to trace it down and fix it. Argghh! Seemed like it went so smoothly then some idiot used the lights (me!).
This is another post that also summarizes the radio install weirdness. I knew about most of this when I started but had to see it for myself. Anyway, hooked things up like I said above and the stereo works fine. I think I just have to replace the #3 fuse and the city lights/stop lights should all come back I hope.
So edited the original post to reflect what I ended up doing and I put in a new fuse for #3 and all is working fine. Radio, lights all work together in harmony!
