I've done some searches in the forum, and of course some googling, but finding a proper replacement battery seems like a messier puzzle than it should be. Does anyone have a good solid source in the US or a way they've found these things?
I installed a NAPA BAT 65151R which was in stock at my local NAPA. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP65151R I did have to replace the battery cable clamps as well, as the new battery had larger posts, which are more of a modern/USA standard size. I also later replaced the battery ground cable with a much thicker gauge one since the stock one seemed way too thin. http://reeseallen.net/sambar/2019/11/01/battery/
Ah, thanks, Reese! I have a sambar too, but it's a truck... just gotta make sure it's the same battery. And were the terminals on the correct sides? Seems like the japenese ones are reverse of most american ones.
Went to wall mart, and matched up size of battery, and I'm pretty sure it was in the 26 size group, 12 volts, 550 cca! Made sure the cable post's were correct, although changing cables wouldn't have bothered me. Worked for me! Limestone
You can always flip the battery around. I had no issues. I would be very surprised if the van and the truck used different batteries. Everything forward of the back of the front seats in the vans is identical to the trucks, other than the sunroof.
In case you do not have a NAPA around, the 65151R is a Group 151R battery. Most any auto parts store should carry them. I use a Group 151R that I picked up from Advance Auto Parts in my Sambar truck. It was exactly the same physical size as the battery I took out. As Reese said, the battery posts are different, so I replaced the positive connector, and just picked up a replacement negative strap from AAP while I was there.
Alright. it finally died for good. So I went to NAPA and got that 65151R. I bought some replacement post clamps, but I don't really know how to splice these in. It looks like there are actually two cables going to the positive terminal. I would still have to get some wire splicing pieces, but this replacement clamp/cable I got is probably not right, eh?
I guess I'll just get that connector that Reese got on Amazon and then i can put both wires into that?
I used the red one of these: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...-battery-terminal-dl06067/95964_1099985_23849 I attached one of the cars wires to each of the two bolts that was used for the wire clamp. That battery strap is not going to be of much use for the positive side. That said, I did get a strap like that to replace my negative lead since mine had seen better days.
Ctr, Don't be afraid to apply, some die electric grease to the end of the cable, before you tighten down on the cable/terminal clamp to the cable, then apply it to the clamp, especially underneath where the corrosion likes to start! Through testing many yrs. ago, we've found that you can not apply too much! Limestone
And look through the penny’s in your pocket. If you can find any from the mid eighties or older, glue one next to each battery terminal. The penny will corrode first, leaving your terminals and wiring intact.
You can take them to Lowe’s or Home Depot and go to the electrical isle and pick of the connectors, you may even get lucky and have an associate crimp them on for you with their crimper. Have an idea of the size bolt they will be connected with. I’ve done that but also went home and added solder. Your mileage may vary.
I build my own battery cables out of jumper cables. Jumper cables go on sale every fall, and are then the lowest cost alternative for wire to make high Amp runs on vehicles. They sell battery cable crimpers that you hit with a hammer. I use a hydraulic unit, because I needed it for working on lightning protection system wiring, at work, and bought one personally. The Chiwanese versions of the hydraulic crimper are actually quite inexpensive. And, locally all three of the parts houses will custom build battery and ground cables. I use marine grade waterproof shrink tube on the ends of all wires. It has hot glue on the inside, which melts as the tube shrinks and gives you a waterproof seal. that seal also keeps air out so the wires are less prone to corrosion. I recommend replacing the battery terminals with the RV/Marine style with terminal studs and nuts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1LJP1M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_P1uTFbTHMTZYV As to batteries: I measured the battery tray on my truck, and went to the local parts house and bought one an inch shorter than the tray, a bit wider, and a bit taller. That was the largest, highest Amp-Hour, battery which would fit with out replacing the tray. I did have to make a new hold down out of some aluminum angle sprayed with rubberized paint, and get some longer hold down bolts, and then make some custom brackets to hold the cover on.
You want a Group 151R. It is exactly the same physical size as the original, but it will require that the either the negative terminal be changed out, or the battery ground strap be replaced.
Jake, please go into your profile and add the information about your truck in the signature line. The posts by Limestone, JTT3, and myself will give you an idea of what kind of information to put in it. It is really helpful for those of us who hang around trying to help folks work on their trucks. Welcome aboard. Thanks, Jigs
I got a battery up here in Canada that was a direct fit. Post size and orientation was spot on. I will see if I can get the number off the battery if someone needs it.
All these trucks seem to take a battery that is the same and a common replacement is a U1 lawnmower battery, but anything within that size will work.. As for cable ends, I used SAE to pencil post adapters https://www.amazon.com/Pencil-Post-Battery-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B07BJHBDTC My Jimny actually has a Duralast gold U1 in it, but I used the adapters and bolted them through the lawnmower posts with a long bolt. These trucks are 660cc 3/4 cyls. It does not take much to spin them over.
If you want a direct replacement battery , get a Toyota Prius battery , it’s not cheap as it’s a AGM but is the right size and has the pencil terminals ( the little ones on the mini trucks . As for battery terminals. The R at the end means the terminals are reversed on most batteries with the others you have 24 and 24f which are the same batteries but also has the terminals reversed, my diesel landcruiser has 2 batteries as it’s a cold spec 24v system that uses a group size 27 on one side and a 27f on the other
Are all of the Prius batteries the same? Or is there a certain one? I like the idea of spending more for a good battery without having to mess with anything else.
They are all the same, however with the adapters, you can install a lawn mower battery which is sized more like it should be
The Prius batteries I saw looked like they had the wrong terminal size. I successfully put this one in today. I got it at the local O’Rielly. Terminals are on the wrong sides, but the battery cables reached when I put the battery in “backwards”. Truck starts up great now.
Ricky, please add eh information on your rig to your signature line. It makes it easier for folks to offer help, if they know what your working on. This site has a listing of the dimensions of most of teh automotive batteries, https://raybuck.com/automotive-battery-dimensions/ On my Hijet, I looked up one which would fit in the length and height restrictions, of teh battery box, and was a bit wider. Turned out to be a group 35. I hade to get a couple of longer J-bolts to secure the new oversized battery, and figure out how to move the battery cover mounts out so the cover would hook back on. But, going to the physically larger battery, gave me about a 50% increase in reserve capacity, and twice the cold cranking Amps. Both critical to think about in cold climates. So, it was worth it to me, to expend some effort to upsize the battery.
Got it from a Company called Canada Energy. I believe they are a chain of stores for industrial batteries. I brought mine in and they grabbed one off the shelf that was the same. Sorry I don’t have the part number.
I found the battery size for the truck. It is group 151R. Other sources say it is a direct fit. Not sure about the terminals, will find out soon enough.
