This post is directed at those of you that have installed aftermarket off road lights on your mini's. How did you run your wiring for a power lead? Did you install in-line relay? If you added multiple sets of lights, did you run into any output problems with the alternator? Thanks in advance! op:
although i haven't done it on my truck, i have installed off road lights on a lot of dune buggies. i prefer to run a standard bosch relay to alleviate the load on the switch. it also cleans up the wiring under the dash when you don't have to run heavy gauge wiring in there.
Thanks Milt! Where would you preferably run your main power lead from...battery or lead off alternator?
i would normally run from the battery with a breaker in line (or a fuse, but it's a lot easier to reset a breaker than change a fuse when stranded). are you familiar with the bosch relays? these are my favorite... simple to wire and easy to find/replace Internal Workings of Bosch relay: The following diagram shows what those external terminals are connected to on the inside of the relay. When there is no difference of potential (voltage) across terminals 85 and 86 (the coil), the relay's movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87a (the normally closed contact). In other words, when no voltage is applied the the relay coil, terminal 87a is connected to terminal 30. When 12 volts is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86), the movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is pulled down/in by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically contacts the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87. Again, in other words, if battery voltage is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86) terminal 30 will be connected to terminal 87. The red dashed line shows the path in which electrical current flows from/through terminal 30 to the contact of terminal 87a when the relay coil is NOT energized.
I've mounted a bunch as of late as well. I like Milt's diagrams. I've got a rough sketch that my mechanic drew for me. I'll scan er in next time i'm near my scanner if i can remeber. I use a relay too. Run a line from the battery for power, then snuggle a little blad in beside the radio fuse to get myself some ACC power. plug it all into the relay and you've got yourself a daytime running light or you can put a switch in it and you've got a cool set of off road lights. most kits you buy give you the inline fuse and everything you'll need. ________ Suzuki DR800S
Driving lites We mount two 55 watt floods on the headache bar on a regular basis. This is what we do: I run a 1/2 inch nylon plumbing tubing inside the cab from the middle above the back window to the corner behind the passenger seat, drilling a hole in the floor (approx 5/8 inch). The side of the cab is double walled so pop rivets and clamps do a nice clean install of the tubing. I run 2 # 14 stranded wires through the tube as I always run a ground wire to get full brightness. Lifting the passanger seat, you all know there is plenty of room to mount a 30AMP relay. Run a # 14 wire (with in-line fuse) to the positive of the battery. We sheath the wire in 1/4 inch nylon water tubing for chaffing protection. This lead goes to the Load terminal of the relay The wire from the lamps goes to the switched side of the relay. A wire is now fished from the relay under the floor and up to the dash, Wire should be tied frequently to avoid being ripped off by underbrush. A switch is mounted in the dash and can be powered several ways: #1: You can splice into Hot (red) lead to the ignition if you wand to be able to control independent of the Ignition switch #2: You can splice to the radio lead which works in ACCESSORY mode, #3: Or you can wire throgh Fuse block and lights will only run with engine running. This method of utilizing a relay gives you full voltage direct from the battery, and the switch is only carrying the load of the relay itself which is very mimimal. Be aware that if you select # 1 (which most of my Farmers/Hunters prefer), I would make sure that your battery is in top notch condition, as you are drawing approx. 10 Amps. It might be time to convert to a REAL battery, as most of the batteries we get in our trucks are shot. Bosch relays are readily available on Ebay complete with a plug-in Base that makes for a nice install. Use rubber grommets as you pass the wire through the cab, with a dab of Silicone for weather tite install to complete the job. Use a trailer male/female quick disconnect plug in the event the bar needs to be removed. I do not recommend and 100 watt fixtures, as you are exceeding the capabilities of the Alternator. Good luck Chuck near Indy
the EASIEST way I like to use the cheap, low wattage offroad lights (35w). Since the trucks dont go very fast (especially offroad) the cheaper lights work good. I weld tabs on the headache rack for mounting. Many of the minitrucks have a cargo light for the bed. I tie into that wire for power. That way you dont have to do much wiring at all, and it goes on and off with the factory dash switch. Works good. The rear light will go on too, unless you disable it- but it is not bright, and works for offroad. We dont drive on the street with the offroad lights on. A relay cant hurt, but is only really needed when drawing more amps. You can buy these lights at any parts house for about $24 a pr. I also picked up a pair of 4" HID lights the other day that I am going to put on something. They were $109 ea. which is a good deal. The HIDs run on much less amps (I think about 1/4) than a regular 55watt light, so you dont need a relay with them either. I run 4 6" HIDs on my sandrail that are BRIGHT!!!! 2 switches, no relays.
Use of relays Mark: I have to tell you, having grown up on Fiats of all descriptions, the # 28 wire that they (Fiat) and the Japanese use are reason to use relays everywhere. Unless, of course, one does not mind replacing the column controls that are priced out of this world. I just like to avoid problems later, and give my clients good value Chuck near Indy By the way, spent a little on tuning the dump and replaced hyd lines, fresh rubber etc, and it sold to a happy customer. Worst problem was that that the PCV valve was gone. Thanks again.
Chuck- I was pointing out that you dont always need a relay for everything- depends on the draw... no doubt relays wont hurt, and are needed in most situations. Glad the little dumpbed worked out for you! I was just actually thinking about running another "special" like that deal. Need any trucks? I am going to do an ad for a 550cc 4wd truck for $2500, and a 660 for $3000.
Here is a diagram of Bosch relay and fog/off road lights. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm When I get the mini, I thought about running 2 lights foreword and two lights off at angle to shine into the borrow pit either side of the road. The road to the house can barely be called two lane pavement and it is thick with deer.
Baja Designs, Vision X, and Rigid Industries are some of the folks offering LED Off Road lights. Be prepared - they are high $! try: www.bajadesigns.com www.visionxusa.com www.rigidindustries.com
Bosch 30 amp relay Just a heads up on using Bosch 30 amp relay's Part # 0 332 019 150 They have two common # 87 terminals as opposed to the wiring as shown by Milt in his post above. Not saying Milt is wrong, there are both types in circulation AFAIK On the attached .pdf the one style is in diagrams A1 & S1 - the one I have in my truck The one shown in Milts pictures is represented in diagrams A2 & S4
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would add what I did to my truck so maybe it could help some one else. I added four lights on my "roll bar" or cab rack, what ever you want to call it. I ran power through a fusible link to a extra fuse box with standard blade type fuses I installed under my passenger seat, then after that smaller fuse in the fuse box, I ran my power wire to a 20 amp switch I mounted in my dash by my axle/diff lock switches, then to my lights. I just bought el-cheapo off road/driving lights with 50 Watt H3 bulbs. I then bought and installed 35 Watt H3 bulbs in them so I could be under 20 amps, so I wouldnt tax the alternator too much, could use a standard/easily acquired lighted switch. I have had no problems thus far, and when I run the lights it does tax the system a little, but not much, and I cant tell a difference when I am driving the truck, other than I can see much better. The other switch will be used for a separate "back-up" and truck bed light, also with 35 Watt H3 bulbs installed in them.
Just to be clear, you guys run a separate ground back to the battery or ground on the frame? I've got a "big" electrical project I'm planning and was assuming that I'd run both positive and negative from the battery to a separate distribution box for the lights, snow plow, etc., stuff I want to run.
I ran my ground from the lights to a spot on the frame rail on the drivers side. I also cleaned/checked the grounding strap from the battery to the frame rail on the passenger side. That strap is a weaved 1/2 inch wide flat stainless steel strap. I have ran separate grounding wires from my other accessories to close and convienent spots on the frame/body to keep costs down and save some wire, not to mention the octopus effect of having nine million wires connected to one point. So far, no problems. If it is a "sensitive" electronic device, (some radio's need this) I recommend running the power lead AND the ground wire directly to the battery, this can help reduce the "hum" heard on some devices caused by "noisy" (electronically, not audibly until it hits your speakers!) alternators etc. Of course you can by a isolator kit as well that has a diode and capacitor, but why spend the extra $ if you don't have to? Just my .02
i have big plans for lights i plan on have 5 of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...200615151037&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:MOTORS:1123 pointed forward and one backward and 2 off road spot lights forward ran on three switches. yes i know thats crazy amount lights but i will see no matter dark or snow storm from he11
I dont think thats crazy. Ofcourse I have four overhead 35 watt lights, and two 55 watt lights facing backwards, one for the bed and one for a backup mounted by my license plate holder. And when I get a front receiver/bumper I plan on putting two more up front. But, I am a light/gizmo freak according to my wife.... but what does she know? Throw up some pics when you get them on, and let us know how they work.
yea when im done ill have two on my bumper and 5 on top forward and one backward for now maybe two idk yet lol
i bid on two more lights for the mini http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...589912106&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEBIDX:IT all i got is two more to order and ill have all my lights now i just have to wire all this up :frustration: oh well once i get the on ill put up some pixs of the top lights
