I capped the return line at both ends, and completely blocked the fuel line, but left it in place. Maybe next time I do some extensive work on the truck I’ll pull both of them and the fuel tank.
The original setup has a line (metal and rubber) going to the mech pump then one to the carb and one back to the tank. My plan is just cap all that and run a new line from tank to carb with a regulator. Hoping I won't need to figure out how the elec pump would push back to the tank. I think the regulator should reduce the need to push fuel back to the tank. Plus I am concerned about what crap is in those lines! I had the thing running until a bunch of gunk got in the mix....
I like hearing what Jigs had to say about what he did! I thought that he had done it, just couldn't remember! Thanks, Jigs for confirming! Limestone
Today's update is that I got it running again! Turns out the original gas tank was a hot rusty mess inside. I'll have to tank and re-seal it when I get to the other truck. So I used the one from the other truck (turns out it was pristine) and re-plumbed it from scratch. All new rubber fuel line to the front of the truck. Luckily I did not jam up the carb and it started this morning. Runs decent, little bit of oil smoke but I am happy with it for now. The new issue to tackle is no clutch engagement. Looking at adjusting at the trans. Thinking if I let it all the way out (max travel) it may give it enough to engage. Any thoughts? I figure worst case I pull the clutch out of the other truck and swap them. Or (worster case) try to find a new one. Anybody know a good source for clutches?
*** Side note, the fuel tank sender actually works too! The original one was flaky chunks of rust.....
OK, an update on the JTRK! Turns out it was a 4X4 originally and has the transfer case and shift lever, but is missing front driveshaft and the original front end. Seems someone swapped out the front end!! The reason there was no engagement is that the lever was in the wrong position (yes, I feel dumb...)! Once I get the clutch adjusted properly and the truck back on the ground I will post again. Big question: does anyone know someone with a 4X4 front end they are willing to sell? Ideally need the front driveshaft too. More later once I get it rolling.
Don't feel Dumb! Were glad that you not only got it but posted, the problem! It happens to us all! Heck, we can't screw up , if were not trying! It always beets laziness! LOL! Limestone
Are you sure it didn’t come from the factory that way? Part of how they assured they wouldn’t be capable of exceeding the 25-mph max speed to avoid emission regulations, was to install blockers in the transfer case so you couldn’t get into high range. The least cost solution which didn’t require any additional, original parts.
not sure how it might have started life! Does seem strange to not have the front pumpkin! I wish it did! so I drive it all around the property and it runs great for having been in a junkyard for ??? Years! Took the grandkids for a ride so it paid for itself already no matter what happens. I’ll try to post a video too. Meantime, I’ll keep posting on the other one as I try to figure that one out. Very good day today!!!
Is there a metal block off plug in the front of the transfer case where the driveshaft bolts to , also does the transfer case shift leaver have a button on it ?
Trying to add a video... The lever does not have a button. I'll have to check under for the transfer case question. Could that lever just be a high range/low range selector? That would be like my old Honda Trail 90! It had a range selector too. I'll get right back to you on the other. Thanks so much for the insight! As a side note I am looking forward to working on the other one now too.
Does the range selector lever have three detents, front would be high, middle neutral, and back would be low. If they blocked it so you could only get into neutral and low, you will only have two detents.
Yeah it’s a 2wd from the factory, they use the transfer case housing to keep it in low range for off-road use only . Plus a speed limiter on the speedo to cut the fuel to the carb . You can bypass the speed limiter and also pull the PTO cover off the transfer case and remove the Eclip so the transfer leaver between the seats will go into high as right now if in stock form should just have a drive (down) and a neutral point (up) when clip removed you’ll get (way up) and slips into high gear
That is awesome news! So that clip is on the lever assembly (how I am treading your note) or down at the transfer case? Can't thank you guys enough for all the help too!
It’s in the transfer case , here’s a link to it https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/s80lp-hijet-speed-limiter.18175/
So a huge thank you is in order!! That thread was super helpful and all the input from the group was a great learning experience. Thanks to you all!! So last night after work I spent some time learning to remove the bed. Got to a point and cheated since I didn't want to disconnect the e-brake or airbox. I just braced it up a bit. Got into the trans as shown in that link and spent 1.5 hours (in the dark but with a drop light) trying to remove the clip - once I could see it. So having that long needle nose is critical - ADVICE POINT - so today I went and bought one, and a bent nose one just in case. Money well spent!! This afternoon I tried for about 10 minutes, then lifted the side of the bed higher for better access. On about the 5th try (using the straight pliers) I clamped down, pulled a bit and felt a small click (not for the first time though). Released a bit of tension and pushed pliers until it felt like it touched the shaft. Did not release all pressure!! Clamped down as hard as I could again and pulled out. Shocked surprise when I saw the magic e-clip in the pliers!!! I did not drop it in the case I am happy to say!! Whew!! And as discussed, I went to the cab to see where the lever would go - and now it goes straight up!! Did not get to test the gear range yet, as I have a carb problem that cropped up. But I am confident that all will be awesome once I fire it up again. If you are thinking about doing this mod and haven't yet - just read the thread above! For my other truck it does not have the lever so I am curious what the deal will be once I get it running....
Dwight, I was wondering if the E clip was magnetic, (steel)? I think that would be good info to share, while you still have the E clip in your possession! Thanks! Limestone
Yeah they are your basic steel E clips , I had to fish mine out many a moon ago after dropping it into the case . Took a bit of fishing get it out as for some reason the magnet was getting stuck to all those pesky gear things in the alloy case
Kof, With that info. in mind! I would suggest to anyone doing it, that placing a magnet on the E clip, and or under, in case you drop it, for a handy tip! Just Something we used to do, when tearing into, Trans., and other components, that we didn't want to spend countless time searching for! Thanks! Limestone
Re; Limestone's magnet tip - I agree. If you have one of those little magnets on a telescoping rod that might fit in. I considered doing that but managed to get lucky early on (with the new long pliers).
I've always said, that I rather be lucky than Good! And If you've got both! Now you've got something! Limestone
So post weekend update. Saturday morning I had a very tough time getting it started. Got it to run but not idle. Going to replace the cap and rotor (they are on order) since the were the old ones. Thinking this ought to get it back in shape. Also makes me think the old carb might actually be OK. We'll see once I get the parts installed. At least I will have a carb for the other truck.
So all of last year went to another project, which has come along great. I had long months of the truck just not starting or running, battery would go dead trying to start it, etc. Recently, I changed the oil at the suggestion of a friend (we think gas got in the oil with the excess fuel pressure I had using the electric pump), added much larger battery, changed plugs and drained the old gas to add fresh. Got it running again!! Drove well, not very good idle. After about an hour of running around, it started fading again. Now it is back to the no start problem. Not sure if it is improper fuel line paths or just running out of fuel since I am using that mechanical pump after all. Going to try to figure out fuel line path - if anyone has a drawing I would appreciate it!!
