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New owner of old truck

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by Dwight Webster, Oct 4, 2020.

  1. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I would Stay away from the reprinted one! Very hard to read! It's a shame, cause I spoke with the seller, and he's going to try to get better copies! Until then, stay away from it!
    Limestone
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Yep, that's the one!!! It's really a shame, because, there's so much valuable info in it! I haven't given a review yet, either way, because I don't want to bash the guy, until I at least give him a chance to correct the issue like he said he would try to! I'm gonna try to follow up with him and see where he's at with it, or if he's just feeding me some bull, like a politician!!!
    Limestone
     
  3. i am going to try it and I’ll just send it back if I can’t read it. Maybe he fixed it??!!

    In the meantime, today I realized my trucks are very close in age. They are both S80, and their VIN numbers end in 307035 (jumbo cab) and 306703 for the regular cab.
     
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Let us know how that shakes out!
    Limestone
     
  5. Will do! I am hoping he does well by us all...
     
  6. While I wait for that manual I have been working on the other truck. It is missing a key and I found an eBay guy who has keys. How do I find the key code?? Is it tied to the VIN in any way?
     
  7. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    Toyota used to stamp on the Lock cylinder in the pass side door and since diahatsu is pretty much Toyota to the point the key blank is the same I’d say pull the lock and see if the number is stamped on it
     
    Dwight Webster likes this.
  8. That is exactly what the Toyota dealer said! :) Ended up pulling the lock cylinder and taking to the town locksmith. He had no problem making a new key in minutes. And it used a Toyota blank too! Learned a bunch today.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  9. Had to post the key, as I am hoping the jumbo is the first to fire up... It has seats...
     

    Attached Files:

  10. So I got the manual from the eBay guy today. Not bad, pretty readable and better than nothing at all! It does come as a stack of paper, not bound in any way. Most pages are clear and it is definitely a copy. It got here in only 2 days, not bad since they originally stated 7 days! Going out to find a 2" binder to hold it.
     
  11. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I threw mine in a binder, and, tabbed, the sections, for easy finding what I'm looking for!
    Limestone
     
  12. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    I'm interested in seeing when you need important specifications on something, like clearance gap's, or close tolerances, because the small faded print, kills me!!! It's really a shame, cause there's a lot of great info in there that I can't get out!
    Limestone
     
  13. Well I am bummed to say that the small truck (not the JTRK) seems to have something broken in the motor. It cranks (although I had to jump power to the starter directly) but no spark from the coil. Since it is points/condenser I figure clean those points and try again. Did that but when I went to move the motor to set the points, no movement! Hand cranked and used the starter, but no action for the distributor. Pulled it out and it seems fine, rotates freely. So it must be somewhere in the inside of the motor. Any thoughts are appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2020
  14. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    Timing belt most likely
     
    Limestone likes this.
  15. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Koffer's right! First thing we'd check! Remember, due diligence, when replacing the timing belt,(I know this is premature), water pump, is right there, your timing will be off, and probably,(possibly) bent rods! Good Luck!
    Limestone
     
  16. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    Pull the valve cover , Grab the rockers see if any are really loose , like 1/4 to 3/8 inch lash movement , valves are bent . If not back the adjusters all the way off till there’s like no touching and flopping around . Pull the plugs and do a compression test . If you got bent valves you’ll know right away that were not seen with the lash checking . If the compression seems good then you should be good enough to pop a timing belt on even just to line everything up a just the valves and try firing it up for a few seconds. If it fires and sounds ok it’s time to really get going on it as your not polishing a turd
     
    Limestone likes this.
  17. Thanks both of you! Glad to have a path to check. I agree also with replacing whatever other stuff that in the way. Always was my advice back when I sold auto parts back in the day. Speaking of parts do you have any suggestions for sources other than just doing google searches and ebay? Thanks in advance!

    Also found a guy on eBay (

    mister_bsmisc) who has keys for HiJet by key code.
     
  18. Not much time lately for the trucks. I am working on the Jumbo cab now as it turns over, has spark, but so far is not pumping fuel. I can feel the fuel pushrod moving but not sure if it is enough pressure. Thinking to add a small electric pump to help it along. Then I am hoping it is just a bit of carb cleaning and maybe it will fire up. Any suggestions on how that fuel pump functions? Should I try to get a new fuel pump pushrod, and if so where can I get it?
     
  19. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    On my Hijet, I just bypassed the stock pump, and installed a fuel filter, small electric pump and a pressure regulator back near the tank. The pump I got self regulates to five psi, and shuts off. So, no need for the return line.
     
    Dwight Webster likes this.
  20. Perfect, thanks! I have a pump coming today and I think I have a spare regulator. I'll just bypass it too! Thanks!
     
  21. She runs!!! Added electric pump and regulator as suggested. Flushed about 3 gallons of gas through the system (came out brown for a while!), and when it was clean buttoned it up. Took a couple of times running it but now it starts and runs without touching the gas. Not too bad for a carb that may have sat for 10+ years! (no idea really).

    Next issue is no clutch engagement. I am hoping it is just a bad adjustment. Any suggestions?
     
  22. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Dwight, please go to your profile page, and add the information on your truck in your signature. It makes it lots easier to give advice.

    Thanks, Jigs
     
  23. Thanks Jigs, done!
     
  24. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Ok, on the Hijets you adjust the clutch by increasing or decreasing the slack by adjusting the nuts on the cable housing at the bell housing.

    There are is a whole procedure in the manuals on it, and checking clearances to the pedal from the floor. but I just adjust it to have about 5/16-inch free movement of the throw out arm at the bell housing.

    As the clutch disk wears this slack gets less, and if you don’t stay on top of it will cause the clutch to start slipping, and then burn up, causing heat damage to the flywheel.

    When I had my 77 Toyota Hilux, my roommate was a line mechanic at the Toyota dealer and specialized in clutches and transmissions. I asked him to give me a hand changing my clutch. He was shocked that I had 140k on the original clutch, he was typically replacing them at twenty to thirty thousand miles. Mine lasted “forever” because every 5000-miles I changed the oil, check the gear lube, and adjusted the clutch.

    He was really shocked when he discovered that we didn’t need to turn the flywheel, because I hadn’t burned it.
     
  25. It helps to be nice to it and to keep it adjusted! :) I usually have long life on brakes for the same reason - going easy on them.

    So I got it adjusted a bit and hoping to try it. I did speak too soon about it running though! It was running pretty well yesterday but seems to have an issue starting now. Tried starter fluid and that got it going for 20 seconds but then it died. Pulling the plugs, cap/rotor, and checking them now. May also re-route the fuel line a bit too. I just added the electric in front of the stick pump. That may be blocking fuel flow. Now that I now the electric pump will run it is there any reason to keep any of the mechanical pump's plumbing?
     
  26. Figured it out. Had some gunk that was hiding and gummed it up. But I know it runs so I am removing the gas tank for a full flush job. Then I will route all new fuel lines in to the new pump and regulator, and eliminate the mechanical pump from the fuel path. May also add the new carb I bought for the other truck to the mix too! I think it will end up running great. Hoping the clutch was just misadjusted and not bad....
     
    Limestone likes this.
  27. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Dwight,
    I like the Idea pulling the tank along with the rest of your work that your doing! This way you'll really learn your unit!!!
    Limestone
     
  28. That is for sure! I am much more comfortable with it now after working on both. I am planning to just leave the original fuel pump/lines in place but capped. Is there any reason to do otherwise? Will the vacuum lines or return line make any difference if I just run a brand new line direct from tank to electric pump to regulator to carb?
     
  29. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Is there a return line? I would think, if you have a return line, going back to the tank, that would work. I'd be interested to hear what Jigs, would have to say. If I remember correctly he did his some what like what your explaining!
    Limestone
     

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