Thanks so much for the reply, I will pick them up tomorrow and give it a try. I had crossed referenced to a bosch plug, build wise the same plug as the factory just minus the long shoulder. But when I try to install them it's as though my socket can't go deep enough they would not snug up then I had to fight them back out. Am I crazy or is there a special socket I need or have to manufacturer as a previous poster stated?
So you really don't need a special socket, but a thin wall Deep well, I think 12 point, Craftsman is what I used! I can see the set now in my head, it's got a really thin wall thickness to it, unlike an impact socket that's thicker for strength! Yeah, there's not a lot of clearance around the plug! Let us know how you made out! Limestone
Well bad news. This one has a 13/16 head and would not fit into the hole to even try. Is yours the es-ef twin cam? I guess I'm just going to have to wait for the factory plugs to become Available thanks for the advice.
Wow, Sorry to hear that, and sorry for the wrong recommendation. No, Mine has the EB Engine 550cc. Limestone
I'm wondering, and thinking with an old memory, if you go use a Micrometer, and spec out you dimensions on you plug, including the thread pitch, and gauge, and go to, like Summit Racing site and cross reference your plugs to get a replacement! There's just too many foreign vehicles to not find an alternative plug, that will fit! Somehow I remember in the past, that I did that, but I can't remember for what vehicle! It's amazing to me hoe many NGK Plus are on the Summit Racing Site! One of them have to fit!!! Have you posted your Question on LivetoDai? All things Daihatsu! Limestone
I have never heard of that site I'll have to look it up. I did post to the Facebook group asking for a lead and an employee of G&R commented on it to contact them so maybe I can get my hands on some soon. It is sooo hard to start when cold around 75°F, if I pull the plugs and clean them it fires right up and runs pretty good. I'm pretty sure it's the plugs but my manual should come in this week so I can test vacuums.
Well, if that's truly the case, it's a good place to start, but keep in mind if your plugs keep fouling out, it usually leans to an improper fuel mixture coming out of the Carb! The plugs usually will tell the story if their carbon-ed up,(black and sooty), or not, or dry and grey,(not enough fuel), or even wet with fuel,(flooded,with too much fuel)! It never hurts to replace the plugs, and then keeping the older ones as possible spares, in an emergency,(old school thoughts)! I really have good luck with the Iridium plugs, as I do believe that they do burn Hotter! Limestone
That's just it they are a nice color to them maybe a little dark, and are definitely coming out wet when I face my no start issue. Mine is EFI, DOHC, Automatic. The only known throttle body issue is it wants to high idle once you pay the gas the idle comes down to normal. The previous owner said he pulled it to clean I guess the carbon out of it and it has since done that. I do not know what would cause a throttle body to act an old carburetor yet but that's on the list somewhere and may have a hand in my starting / spark plug issue. Again I suspect it could be tied to a vacuum issue.
Could be! I truly think the wet plugs aren't burning enough to give you a darker more burnt, carbon ed up burnt look, as they just getting too much fuel, as you know, and it is possible that you do have Vac issues! There's been so many previous posts indicated the same problems, and it very rarely points to just one thing to limit it to! I know that would be too easy, Right? Limestone
So I've been thinking about the Vac lines, and they get brittle with time, and age. A silicone vacuum tubing kit isn't expensive, and replacing them would, and could eliminate some current, and future problems! Some guys have even, used a color code system to replace their lines, showing them at a glance what their vac lines do! In past posts! Just FYI! Limestone
Certainly could not hurt a roll of tubing cost little to nothing. That will be added to the list. Thanks for the tips
Hi Limestone, Chris here..... Beginning to accumulate parts for my new t-belt, water pump and tensioner maintenance install.... Can you recommend any Torque Specification resources for the 1996 Hijet S110P truck? Also, like your common sense approach to the tensioner install setting...
All of the bolts have a strength rating on the head. There are table online that you can use to find the torque values for various grade and diameter bolts. They should be accurate for anything which isn’t a “torque to yield” application. I think the only torques to yield bolts are the head bolts, and I’m not certain they are. Most Japanese vehicles from the late seventies, early eighties depending on the manufacturer, used torque to yield head bolts. The S110 all came with a 660-cc EF series engines designed in the early 80s, based on the older 550-cc, EB engine. So as part of the design revisions I would expect them to have gone to torque to yield head bolts, with the aluminum cylinder head.
That's the proper way to determine, torque Value, as far as the way Jigs, explained it! You can't go wrong, that way! Limestone
Dr. Limestone, Your counsel is much appreciated. I will add your notes to my beginners file of cool stuff prior to work start. Thanks for the great info! Chris
Chris, please go into your profile and update your signature line to include the information on your signature. it makes it lots easier to give you advice when you need it.
Hi Mr. Jigs, Please pardon my apparent lack of protocol, what would you recommend I include in the signature area? Thanks, Cb
Jigs, is right, that info in your Profile, really makes it easier, for all of Us, as we try to help each other! As Dr's, we both concur! Lol! We don't make House calls anymore! LOL!!! Limestone
Chris, Not to jump in front of Dr. Jigs!lol! Look at his, Signature, and mine,(others), for example. You can change it any time you want! The main things are the make, model, yr, etc....................... Saves people who donate their valuable time, and are much more willing to help, others in need! Limestone
Gentlemen Mr. Jigs and Mr. Limestone - Thank you for your patience and counsel... I'm correcting the signature now. Never having been an internet blog guy, this is a learning experience.... Frankly, I believe that I was so excited that I jumped ahead of Kevin's great example of the Signature! With your assistance my notes file is growing and I estimate I will soon have a beginning level of confidence to do some parts replacements.... A shout out to the site and all the helpful folks here!
Testing my late signature addition...and again, thanks for your patience. everyone.. I can write a trust, however when it comes to having this much fun.... Let's just say I'm workin on it
Hi AzMini, New member here - Chris also from Arizona. I have had the refrigerant type for Kei trucks on my to-do search list and then I noticed you mentioned 134a as the juice for A/C refills....is that the original type of refrigerant used in the system? My new toy is a 96'Hijet with A/C Thanks for your post - Cb
There is a tag on my 94, saying R12. If, it leaks down and I need to recharge it, I will probably pull the R12 out, flush with alcohol, and put in new oil and R134a. I know several AC techs, so when/if I have to do it, I’ll have them decide on the refrigerant. I’m thinking of taking off the A/C to mount a supercharger. So, it may become a moot point. but, I’m in the mountains of central Idaho, and don’t need AC like you folks down in Arizona do.
Thank you AZ, I took delivery of mine just a couple of days before we went on vacation so I haven't even had the time to check the tags but thank you for the observations and advice.
It is on my '95. Should be some confirming stickers under the driver's seat, near where your vehicle "VIN" placard resides.