Well, I think that I have finally got every detail worked out on my 5" lift! After three different attempts (a 3", 4" and now 5") I have got it exactly the way I want it. A spring over axle swap in the rear resulted in 4" of lift and a 5" lift in the front with the differential, radius rods and pitman arm dropped 4" looks great and maintains close to original geometry. No drastic angles on driveline components and nothing even close to binding. The truck sits level and has clearance for 25 x 10.50 - 12 Carlisle All Trails with just a minor trim of the front inside coeners of the fenderwells. I am using 12x7 Douglas Rokstar wheels with a 4" backspacing. The front tires do not rub even at full turn. But they did require a 1/4" spacer to give a litle clearance between the strut springs and the tire. I also changed all the tie-rod ends to Heim joints and built new tie-rods. The truck handles almost identical to the way it did stock. It has a higher center of mass, but not really noticeable. The truck has no problems pulling the 25" tires.
Nice job!!! The seats look sharp. You should post pics of the mods in the reference area of the forum unless you plan to sell these lifts. I am curious to see how you fabed some the mods.
dwink, I will get more pics of the lift components. I will be glad to help anyone with questions. I am not really interested in selling lift kits. There are too many variations between makes and models. The same theories apply, but the execution is a little different. Although, I do have a complete 3" lift that I have built, tested and ran on my truck before wanting to go higher. It has adjustable camber strut spacers, has 2" differential lowering blocks, offset radius rods, 1" engine/trans crossmember lowering blocks and shackles for the rear. I have all the bolts, nuts, and even some CAD drawings. I would love to sell this kit to help fund some of my other mods! But, I'm really not interested in building anymore lifts in the near future. (It is built to fit a 1992 Suzuki, may fit others)
JR, Hey I am interested in the lift you have for sale?... Mine is a 1993 ..will it work you think professor? Get ahold of me. Thanks......
If you have some plans for the front on the 5"Lift I would love to get some plans or details on how to do this. I have an 89' suzuki that i wish to throw out my old lift and build a proper one. No intent to resale or anything like that just need help getting started. Thanks for your input,
2001 5 inch lift Question, for all the master minds out there? I am in the process of finishing a 5 inch lift with 26.5 tires on my 2001 carry, anyone figured out a good way 2 extend the steering rod between the steering box and the rack and pinion box. I thought about machining a shaft to go between the two. Looks like about .575 thousands out side diameter and 28 spline. anyone know where I could get it made or even order the stock part and use it to machine what i need. Any other ideas or help would be great! thanx
Norm,I am guessing you are referring to the actual steering wheel shaft,or sector shaft as it is called in some applications? If so you could cut your existing shaft and have a sleeve machined to slide over the now two pieces and then have it welded once youe length has been determined.I would certainly have a competent welder do this and I would only do this if the truck will never see public roads.
Norm, I have never seen the underside of a 2001. But DRW has a good suggestion for lengthening the steering shaft. My thought is why do you want to drop the rack and pinion unit? Can you lower the pitman arm (idler arm) and then fab an offset drag link between the rack and pinion and pitman arm? I believe that Greg posted pics of a similar set-up. Can you get pics of the underside of your truck and maybe we can give you more suggestions.
JR, I tried the strut rod spacers at the control arm as we discussed and it looks like this will be an easy fix, I did have to lengthen the strut rods 1/4" by using a spacer behind the rear bushing half and by a matching dimension collar on the threaded portion which was long enough to do this.The control arm is in no forward bind now and the truck drives just fine.I spaced the struts up 7/8" and shaved .070 off the bolt head closest to the C/V shaft just for a little extra clearance.
Sounds good, I think it will work. I had tried a 3/4" spacer because of that bolt head that is close to the CV axle. But now I have built new mounting brackets and new radius rods that use a 3/4" Heim joint rather than the rubber bushings. Plus the length is adjustable with the Heim rod end. Sometimes I think I like working on my truck as much as driving it!!
I like the bearing rod end setup and did think about that, but I have been trying to keep this simple and if it proves to be reliable it might help some other folks.Being 100% bolt on will sure help.The 5" lift on your carry is making me want to do something else with my truck, but I think I will leave the 3" alone for now and concentrate on how I want it painted.
Truck look great! I was wondering if the radius rods were adjustable. What did you make the rod out of (hollow/solid combination of the two?) and/or how did you make the flat spot where it bolts to the control arm? Did you use any of the old mounts or are they all completely new? Thanks for posting this. -Greg
Greg, I started with a piece of 1" OD round bar that was about the right length (I think about 18 1/2" lg). I turned all but the last 3" down to 3/4" diameter. I drilled and tapped the 1" diameter end for the 3/4-16NF rod ends. I milled the flats on the 3/4" diameter end and drilled for 3/8", grade 8 bolts. They are bolted thru the swing arms using nylock nuts. By the way, I really like your bumper! I need to get to work on one.
found what I needed at summit Thanx for all the help and advise, I was able to order the knuckle and shaft from summit. I raised the truck 5 inches, but kept everything at factory height, so all my angles are as they were from the factory. relocate a few line brackets and spacers for drive lines, my only glitch so far has been this steering rod. When I get it done all see if I am smart enough to post some pictures. Thanx all for the help.
great looking, 92 Hey JR, I did not mean to spoil your thread. Your truck is awesome, I love that look! I asked my question here because I knew you all that were talking about your lift would be able to help. Again, sorry to have asked here probably should have started knew thread. Your truck looks mean thanx Norm
Thanks James! I just need to get the mill and lathe and I'll be in business. Did you need to lengthen your brake lines? I had to get new ones w/ my 5". I got some steel braided Stop-Flex lines from ClassicTube. Cost about $100 for all three lines/adapters/clips/bolts. I couldn't find anyone locally. I think they got scared when they saw DOT stamped on the line. -Greg
Bret, I will work at getting more pictures and details to post this weekend. Greg, I relocated the mounts for the steel line. By tweaking and bending the existing steel lines I was able to relocate the junction between the steel line and hose. I figured that I do not really need longer hoses because I still have the same amount of suspension travel. I've just raised the truck 5". By the way, are the threads for the brake lines a standard? Will the threaded fittings on the brake lines and hoses from US suppliers interchange? Hope this helps!
You'll be able to get metric bubble flare fittings from US suppliers - that's what half the GMs on the road use, too.
Thats correct. It was a little tricky as the line had "SAE" stamped on it. It is ISO bubble flare though. My frame ends were 10mm X 1mm. -Greg
What about the hoses? Same fittings? Does the "metric bubble flare" refer to the flare on the end of the steel line? and you use your same ends? As you can tell, I am ignorant on the details of brake lines and hose.... I primer in brake line and hose fittings is greatly appreciated!
I used frame end adapters (where the horse shoe clip holds the hardline to the frame) to go from the ISO flare on the hard line of the truck to a AN (Army-Navy) flare on the hose. Check this link for more info. http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html -Greg