Glad you found the spark in the dark! I recently had to re-ground the battery and other cables by adding extra earth. That solved weak starting issues after changing battery and clearing out my starter motor which I recommend to those that have done over 50k km as the carbon builds up and eventually shorts most starter motors. I did the same to my other jap cars and found they start well now as well as sanding down where the connections earth and make contact plus adding some electrical spray to keep the rust away as well, 4 cars run like new. btw found Cushman used a 4G82 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMC_Veryca also later Veryca used 4g15v in taiwan but different model no in china model LJ474Q3E2 https://autos.yahoo.com.tw/news/難以撼動！稱霸車壇20載-中華汽車菱利veryca大改款-47-7萬-155256648.html one here has flying panda rather than your roo https://www.tcbu.org.tw/index.php?do=car&id=46650 Other models using Suzuki G-based G15B which is the destroked G16B Chery Q22 or Karry Youyou called DAM15KR will add other codes also for the following which used the same body and running gear Changhe , Karry, Dongfeng Automobile Company Just trying to keep this info avail for everyone as these engine are getting very rare for our minicab, bravos and carry etc. Honda are lucky to have the same engine pretty much for 2 decades but few options for going larger capacity as do suby Sambars.
What do these rigs sell for nowadays? I don't have Facebook and it seems like that's where most people buy and sell?
They seem to fluctuate based on condition and mileage like anything, but I bought mine on bringatrailer and whenever I see a van they seem to be averaging around 7K, like a lot of the kei trucks. The super exceed with the glass roof seem to be higher average though.
When I first got my Suzuki Every van for 9600 (in 2021) delivered to my house I was offered multiple cash offers within the year for 10K+ Once you address the maintenance items, they are very easily worth 10-12K. Its a crap shoot getting them in from Japan. I did a lot of work to mine and its basically a daily for me now. I wouldn't take less than 15K for it now.
Interesting, good info thanks for sharing. I've seen a handful of sales over $10k but they are definitely in better condition than mine ( and also don't have a kangaroo wrap lol ) I'm going to shoot for $8500 and have it listed below if anyone is interested - https://kalispell.craigslist.org/cto/d/columbia-falls-1996-mitsubishi-bravo-awd/7871466509.html
Yeah, I've been asked several times if I'd be interested in selling mine. I've ran into two or three people with similar kei vans now at car shows, but I'm still the only Bravo and I think if I wanted I could probably sell mine for over 10K, but I am in a larger city. I've driven it around a decent amount this summer whenever the weather has been nice because mine has needed very little maintenance besides oil change and I did the spark plugs and fuel filter when I got it. It seems if you know what you're doing, you can import one pretty cheap, otherwise you're likely dealing with someone who is specifically importing them most likely and based on a few auction sites, there are a few companies doing nothing but Japanese imports right now. I bought my Bravo for 7500 and it cost me another 1600 for shipping from NC to me, and I got it from an auction site from one of the companies that imports cars. I still regularly watch the kei vehicles though looking for deals because a few have gone relatively cheap.
Yeah location seems to make a big difference in demand / sale price for these vehicles. thanks for sharing those numbers its good to know.... Im sort of hopeful that nobody even contacts me and I can just keep driving it
For most visibility you should add it to the classifieds section and avoid postings for sale ads in other peoples posts. You should also be sure to mention how much $$ you are selling it for
Really FB marketplace is where most people sell these in our area anyway. That price should move it pretty fast I would think.
Ah gotcha, I don't have a Facebook and it seems like my local craigslist market isn't watched too closely... No big deal will just enjoy driving it for now. I know in the next year or so I need to thin my vehicle herd so will be sad to see it go when the time comes.
Damn so my ignition cable problem is showing its face again. >> When turning the engine over, I can see a spark grounding from the spark plug boot to the distributor cap...My distributor is the original but my ignition cables are new NGK ordered from Japan.... Visually, they both appear to be in good condition. No cracks in the boot or the cap, but when I put a bit of electrical tape around the boot the problem seems to go away so I think the problem is with the cable not the cap. What does the mini world out there think? Order another set of cables and see if it makes a difference? I don't want to just band-aid it with more electrical tape but may have to temporarily to get it going again.
Are you sure the cable is fully seated into the cap? Maybe its working its way loose over time. Your tape may not be fixing it, it may be that in taping it you pull it and reseat it which fixes it. Just my 2c.
You may be right, I have noticed that I cant get it to click like it should. I just shove it on but it doesnt feel fully seated....ill have to mess with it a bit more
I took some time today to remove two of the ignition cables from the distributor side....I found that 1 of the 2 cables was broken off at the connector and the other one wasn't really fully seated into the boot.....That was an easy fix, removed the boot and crimped the connector back on and got everything snapped into the distributor. I could feel it click in place now I got excited thinking I found the fix..... fired it up, it idles a lot better, and the visual spark grounding out externally is gone.....BUT...I put it in gear and it just stumbles and wont move. I put my finger on the distributor cap and it shocked me....Is the cap the problem here? I don't see any visual signs of damage but the cables are new ... I've never replaced a disturbotr cap before, maybe on like an old Honda I used to have but otherwise I don't have much experience >> Is it hard to replace? >> Since it shocked me, is this my problem? I suppose the better question is , where the hell am I going to find a replacement. OEM is no longer available MD618985
Anyone ever order from Yokohamamotor.net? https://yokohamamotors.net/mitsubishi-bravo-4a30-engine-distributor-cap-details.html
I don't want to just throw parts at this thing, hard to say what's going on here IE: is the problem with the cables or the cap.
If you get shocked touching the cap then the cap is either cracked or the ignition circuit ground is not working (sparkplugs) well. I think your cables were an issue but now you get shocked touching the dizzy cap. Maybe the engine needs a better ground or the existing ground is compromised.
Yeah, that makes sense... I ran out of daylight to test today but I did wrap one of the plug boots in tape again and the symptoms changed and I was able to drive it again.... I went back in my notes and see that when I ordered these cables they were branded Yazaki or something like that, Not NGK or Mitsubishi, so I really want to blame the cables. Visually the cap and cables both look fine...what a pain in the ass but at least I am narrowing it down... I believe the cables I need are NGK RC-ME89 which seems to go for around $150-250 ....so not cheap
I wouldn't sleep good tonight knowing this thing isn't running.... I went back outside now that its dark and wanted to see the spark / arc coming from the wires / cap area...I removed all traces of electrical tape and started fresh again... I could clearly see an arc coming from the top right cable. The cable is in a tight spot so I removed all the other cables to get a better grip. I noticed the metal connector still wasn't really poking out far enough so I pulled the rubber boot back a few inches so the metal was fully exposed. Then I could really click it into the cap and know it was secure. The arcing went away and shes running just fine again...So going back to TG Farrels original advice, the tape wasn't helping anything but every time I removed and replaced it was sitting more or less secure....I think the boot was pushed too far on and wasn't allowing a good connection The problem may come back again but I'm pretty convinced I can narrow it down to this particular cable. I don't think the cap is to blame and honestly it could have just been user error on my part for not pressing it in enough....
Took the Roo out on a test drive tonight. No more visible arcing and everything is running as it should be ...What a relief....I'm thinking TGFarrell nailed it when suggested that the connection wasn't seated fully , rather than damage to the cap or wires..... ---- The solution here was fully removing the boot, cleaning up the connection , and exposing more of the connection end so it can fully seat to the cap and the boot doesn't interfere. In the end a really simple fix
I found that pulling the knob while rolling down the window was a nuisance, so I just cut a small piece of wood and stuck in to hold the button in the "out" position. Now I don't have to leave the drivers seat to get a little breeze!
Vans of each make have various child safety features on the rear windows and doors. They each seem to be implemented differently but for the windows it's defaults to only letting the window go down 2/3. Sliding doors have child safety locks as well sometimes.
Ahh totally, I may need to rig up a little something as well. The window fully down is perfect for my dog to hang out of The roo has been under cover for the past few weeks collecting snow...Going to brush it off this weekend and fire it up, hopefully getting snow tires on if Im not too lazy
Hi Mike I was able to sell my 1994 Bravo recently by posting it on Facebook marketplace. As the weather is changing and springtime is coming, I was getting a lot of inquiries. I am in NY and someone bought it in Utah. If you haven't posted it yet on Facebook, I would definitely place an ad on marketplace. I don't do Facebook but I had a friend post it for me. Good luck!
I cant believe someone came all the way from Utah to buy yours...lol people really are nuts about these little cars huh ?
Lets see the super aero lit up! Does it turn on/off a long with your headlights? I see no electrical going to mine
