I fried my fusible link when I accidentally hooked the battery cables up wrong! I found the link after reading on this forum....THANKS! I did not replace the fusible link though! I replaced the fuse with a 12v 50A circuit breaker (Amazon.com for about $5). I mounted the breaker using some galvanized angle that I had laying around, mounted in a very accessible location under the driver's seat. If I happen to do that again, I will be able to just flip a switch!
Uhm, when you upgrade to a device that was available when they did your design, it isn’t always a good idea. The engineer at the factory used a fusible link for reason. They fuse faster than a breaker. Which means less time to burn up your critical wiring harness.
Having some similar issues, replaced the main fuse but I’m not sure how to find the in line fuse discussed in this older thread. Any help? Also started another thread with more info. Thanks for any help. John
The exact location varied by year. Typical locations were generally under the seats. Some models it was under the left seat, on the side, some it was on the front of the opening. You should have two wires running from the battery positive. A large one going to the starter, and continuing on to the alternator. The other about a 16-guage which goes forward, along the left frame rail. Check the. Color of the smaller wire, and then lift up the seats, and look around for that wire.
Ok found the wire with a port for a large fuse but they took the fuse out and made a jumper that basically by passed the fuse. I took that out. I remembered seeing a couple of large fuses in the glove compartment, one was a 30 amp, the other a 60 amp. I chose the 60 amp and put it in to replace the jumper. Tried it again and no joy. Turning the key it did not turn the starter. I did see on the positive cable a wire lead that was not connected and was tapped off. I can’t find another wire that it would connect too. I order a service manual for it but it may not help. The manual is a copy and the pages are slightly out of focus. Any idea where that wire would connect? The cut wire comes directly off the positive post connector.
Here’s my update. I still can’t find a fusible link between the alternator and the coil. I did find the fuse bus on the kick panel under the passenger seat. It had a wire jumper bypassing it but I took that out and replaced it with a 60 amp fuse. I’m not sure about the wiring to the coil attached is a picture of the coil and wires connected I’ll try to explain what I’ve found. On the left is the Red& black wire connected to negative coil post, the blue wire is on the right thats connected to the positive post. The wire from the the positive post has a jumper that goes to I guess a resistor post, on the opposite side of the resistor is a blade type connector, the wire is black that’s attached to the blade. You may not be able to see it but down by the body rail on the right side is a white&black wire that was connected to the coil mount body bolt. I have not traced the black wire connected to the blade but it appears to be a negative wire. So with the key on the resistor gets really hot. I expected that because it’s connected through the resistor to the positive post of the coil. I’m not even sure that the white porcelain thing is a resistor but it’s the only thing I could think of. I’ve seen voltage reducers similar to it but larger. The way it’s all hooked up doesn’t make sense to me. Someone with more skills on this please explain. I’m stuck.
Another update, we took all the electrical tape off the wiring harness on the engine side. Unplugged the connectors that are under the passenger seat that go to the cab and ignition. We tested continuity on all those wires & also at the engine side connectors. We never found a fusible link in the wires with the exception of the fuse buss that we put a 30 amp tooth looking fuse in. So that looks good. Now we’re testing from the connectors to the ignition. We think we’ve found the issue but have not removed the tape and cover in the wires cab forward. The Yellow black wire did not show continuity from the connector to the ignition switch. Unfortunately the harness from the ignition switch to the connector by the fuse box was not the issue we had continuity from the switch to the end of the short run of wires (about 18 inches). We couldn’t have been lucky and found that there. So it’s the harness run by the fuse box that runs into the dash and then down to through the floor and then to the space under the passenger seat. We really don’t want to take the dash out but I’m not sure we have another choice. On a good note I did find a replacement alternator for the original Danson 40 amp one. Didn’t have to have it clocked and was a direct fit. It’s for an older John Deere tractor 12080N. ALTERNATOR JOHN DEERE TRACTOR 5200 5205 5210 5220 5300 5300N 5320 5320N 5400. Hope that helps someone $68 on eBay or $100+ at the parts store. Any help is appreciated.
Another idea is to relocate the fuse for better access. Which I will post some pictures when I get some free time!
I have the same issue, but I can’t find for the life of me the fuse you’re talking about. I pulled everything in front of the radiator and nothing that looks like your red tooth
I had to do some digging to find mine, there isn't much of the "red" exposed and mine was absolutely filthy.
I'm so glad this forum is available. Had same issue. Called napa and the new part number is 0pal050xp. They didn't have it,, found it at auto zone. Their number is in attached photo.
