Blocks won't help you in the rear. The axle is underslung. You have to convert it to overslung by adding new spring perches ontop of the axle. It gives you about 4-1/2" in the rear. I also have 2-1/2" spacers in the front with 300# springs. Also did a full subframe/ diff drop and lowered the engine and trans 2" to keep good driveshaft angles. I also run 25" and they rub a bit. Need to do a bit of trimming. You would have to have a lot more lift to fit 27".
Yes I planned on moving the axle under the springs, thats what I meant, then blocks to level with the front. So you used 2-1/2" blocks then dropped subframe and differential basically the same amount, 2-1/2 " to compensate for angles ? When you do that drop you also pick up another 2-1/2" of lift, correct ? If you look back to page 7 of this thread, you will see a member ( Fierce ) sounds like he did the same as you and has a pic of his truck with 27's !
In the front you only get as much lift as the size of spacer you put above the strut. Dropping the subframe doesn't lift the truck and more. It just brings the CV angles back to stock (or close). It also corrects camber and unstuffs the CV's. I built my own spacers without any camber correction because when lowering the sub frame you want everything to go completely vertically down. No changes in angle. I could only drop the subframe and engine/trans 2". Mainly because the shift cables weren't long enough for 2-1/2". Also the front sub frame needed to stay at the same height with respect to the engine crossmember so the drive shaft would clear. In all I have a 1/2" increase in the front over stock which is nothing considering guy and go 2" without issues. As far a tires you need to make sure that the actual OD is correct. I have 25" that measure 24-3/4" and that's about max. I know some tire will say 27" but in reality be 26" or even less. They are never exact. In fact almost always measure under.
https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/suzuki-carry-suspention-lift-body-lift.18092/#post-103239 Check this out. I have some write up and pictures.
Quote from Fierce on Page 7 of this thread : "I have a total of 7.5 inches of lift with lift and tires, everything is correct, camber, toe along with both front and rear pinion angles. Goes down the road great, 55mph hands off the wheel stays going straight as an arrow. I don't think I've done anything new here by any means but I have 27s on it with no issues all parts fabbed up by me and all work done in one long day with my 14 year old son. Best part is it will roll 55 w no issue at all and the RPMS are in check now. Drives way way better. Had it to 65mph today no issue other than me not being 100% comfortable with it lol. Rear axle spring swap, 2.5 strut spacers, 250 lb American made springs, modified cross member to clear front shaft, lowered front diff cross member 3 inches and adjustable front diff mounts for pinion angle adjustability in case I decide to go higher. Fenders are massaged. Tires are 27x8.5xR14 on 14x7 beadlocks with 4+3 off set NOT 5+2, 5+2 would have caused all sorts of issues no doubt."
Driveshaft angles are pretty extreme without lowering the entire drivetrain if you are going to do an axle flip. Not to mention the shafts are too short. I had to machine spacers to keep the proper spline enguagement. When I do things I like to do I properly so I will never have issues down the road. You can throw lots of lift in pretty quickly but in order to make all your joints last it takes a bit more work to do it right.
I have a 1996 Suzuki carry-all and I am running a 4 inch lift with 27x9x12 zilla tires with no problems, I used 2 1/2 inch pipe and sloped it the same as a purchased 2 inch lift, yes with this size tires it is under powered but I only use it in the bush and mud roads so speed is not a problem
Yes they have and ride is better but I went with straight 300# and could have gone more But the camber goes way off on the older %1 series with no way to adjust So depending on why? A spring And a 2" lift/camber adjusting may be the best combo
Reviving @KCCats post above and following with a question: Can one get away with simply installing the progressive springs for a little xtra clearance and better ride performance without installing a lift kit or throwing off the CV joint angle? I'm not bothered by the stock ride height and often carry heavy loads on a 50mph road which simply requires more stability. Thoughts?
The heavy load above 40 is going to be an issue. I have mine down pat now! Issue is the CASTOR not so much Camber Camber (tilt) just wears tires! Castor (rearward lean) will give you the Death Wobble! If the strut is straight up and down there is no travel angle for the lack of better wording At speed a bump will want to just push Backwards instead of upwards So I have a G&R 2" lift with adjustment So better springs and the lower lift and push it back and outward! Remember the better springs will lift the front end (witch increases the castor as well)
@KCCats I understand completely, picturing the wheel wobble on shopping carts whose front wheels are pitched rearward. So you have found the G+R adjustable 2" inch lift allows the progressive springs to be installed with proper caster?
Yep castor and camber They are VERY simple Bolts right in, remember the top of strut needs to move out and backwards There is a grove to get it where you want then tighten bolt No nut to hold or anything Just use your nuts to bolt on top then new to hold to body Then a large bolt and washer over the groove! It will take longer to get it jacked up then to install
Ok wonderful - ordered the 2" lift and will be installing next week! The guy at GR said the springs we see out on the web are not really mini truck specific so best bet is to find some locally for cheap and trim. Thanks for the tip @KCCats
275 is more than enough, I don't want to end up with the whole truck leaning backwards. Cant seem to find the spring length on the Summit site. Can you shoot a link to the 10" spring you mentioned? Much appreciated friend
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO...SbuWnf8-KZmmD03yA7fxoluPrt5d5XphoCDN8QAvD_BwE I just did a google search for 10" 2.65" ID!
Already so having read now maybe 200 posts about these issues and trying to solve it all myself I still need help..... I figured the lift kit problems from 2006-2010 were not issues now. I have a 1992 carry bone stock and just added a 2" lift. Measuring from the ground to the fender well it lifted the front up 1 3/8 inches and the rear 2 1/4". I removed that front bolt on the diff housing and made a 1.5" diff drop bracket to reduce the CV angle. I hear a weird rattling when I drive and at idle. When I engage "axle lock" it does engage but has an odd different rattle when accelerating or letting off the throttle. I had another issue when I backed the truck up it would make it have wicked camber and toe out but rolling forward was fine. I added washers to the rear of the tie rod behind the bushing and that seemed to help a lot but not entirely. I dont feel any resistance or binding when jacked up and wheels are off the ground. Anyone had similar issues? Kind of feel stupid taking a smooth riding machine and now its a rattling noisy SOB.
Okay referring to the post above^ I found out that my diff drop bracket is what was causing this issue. I guess it wasn’t allowing the diff to flex at all? Since the screw sets in that rubber grommet I imagine it needs the play to function correctly. Does anyone have any photos of a diff drop bracket they made?
Brand: Afco 5.0 5.0 out of 5 stars 9 Racing Products 23300CR x 10" Long 300 lb Chrome Coil-Over Spring I put these on 96 Carry truck $68 on Amazon working great and gave 2 inches of lift running SunF 24x8x12 no rubbing fit fine and only adding these coils. Very satisfied sir
Was wondering what opinions people might have on the lift kits from Lucky's Fab for a Suzuki DB52T. Thoughts - good, bad. Recommendations? Thank you.
With m lift and the added height of the Fox coil overs, had issue with the E brake cable I added a bracket as well for the dif lock
