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Lifting a Suzuki

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by JRinTX, Jun 1, 2007.

  1. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Welcome to the site. You are correct but the trucks, except for the subaru are unibody construction. The effects of a body lift can be achieved but it has to be done by spacing suspension and engine components which is mush more difficult than a standard body lift and has to be custom made.

    -Greg
     
  2. Shedhunter

    Shedhunter New Member

    Well glad I joined. I am purchasing a Subaru mini van. Wanted to lift it a little. U can see where the tires have buckled the fender a little
    So Im safe with a body lift on the Subaru?
     
  3. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

  4. SaskCarry

    SaskCarry Member

    installed a 2.5" lift kit ordered on ebay from a dealer in Altamont, TN. Reasonable price and shipping up to Saskatchewan, easy installation, and ended up with perfect camber and no CV binding. Also came with Gr 8 bolts.
    It's the very kit you are looking at on ebay.
     
  5. Greg n TN

    Greg n TN New Member

    I just purchased my first mini, a 95 DD51T (4x4).
    From all the reading I've done, I want to lift as little as possible - if at all.
    I have access to some 4x100mm 14" rims and my questions are:
    What lift will be required to use 14" rims (still not sure of the offset at the moment)?
    What type of trail tires (ATV, A/T, or M&S) would you suggest?

    I'm not 4-wheeling, just working around the farm and want a modest off road tire that will be still run on the road 10% of the time. Reasonable ride & traction are what I'm looking for.

    Thanks in advance for your help,
    Greg
     

    Attached Files:

  6. SaskCarry

    SaskCarry Member

  7. Jeepy

    Jeepy New Member

    Thanks SaskCarry I'll get an eye on this and evaluate if it suits my needs! No worry about timming I'm patient!
     
  8. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    hi guys,

    can someone tell me what is required when i go for lift over 2"?
    from what i can gather from the forums
    1. space diff down 1"?
    2. do i need to space the engine/gearbox/transfercase?


    reason i need a bigger lift is because my car has factory 13" wheels and 12" wheel do not clear the brakes. (it is a 1.3L 4 cyl da32t). so in order to fit larger tyres, i need a bigger lift due to the increased rim size

    thanks
     
  9. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

  10. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

  11. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    No it was not.

    It was a rebuff to your premise that you require a lift in order to mount larger rims.

    If you don't care, and just want a lift over 2", search hunibar.
     
  12. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    oh i see what you are saying now, thanks

    only thing is my truck has 155R13 Light truck tyres standard (155/80r13) =22.76". these are no good as you have to deflate a lot to get good floatation Around 5-7psi which affects the already low ground clearance a fair bit

    the plan is to fit a 185R14LT (185/80r14) = 25.65", which gives me a 1.44" lift from tyres only. i do not believe a standard 2" lift will allow this tyre to clear the body.

    i do a lot of sand driving and would like to have a large sidewall for deflating purposes.

    i will look at hunibars build

    thanks

    407321_10150821931702516_789962515_12971893_842340463_n.jpg
     
  13. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    This is a case of having to work inside of the box.
    I found that the kumo's that I have were most excellent in the sand, as they tended to float. The studs are great for logs and rocks too. But weight is and issue for the hyway. Have a look at some 55r's.

    If you're really set on the deflation thing, have a look at the 13"/14" UTV after market and some 24-8-13/14.

    A lift beyond 2" is a big can of worms and any solution, other than, is going to be cheaper and less headaches.

    The huni-bar was designed by one of our members as a solution to camber correction and axle angle limitation. It's a premise that I just happen to agree with. That if you correct camber from the top, you get axle "stuffage" and reduce the limit angle of the inner CV. By correcting from the bottom(push-out), designed limits of 24deg are available for articulation of the front suspension. My experiments indicated an additional 4.5" before CV and axle internals contact.
    Dropping the diff has much of the same negative effects, as this also gives axle stuffage from the inside of the system, limiting available articulation.
    These are all problems linked to the facts of a-arm angle of rotation and top post camber correction. The huni-bar moves the a-arm mounting point to a position that resembles the original angle of rotation AND corrects camber in doing so.

    If you don't understand the above, don't try to lift beyond 2".

    Good luck.
     
  14. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    i highly doubt the 15" will be any good in the sand i drive in. it is very very soft. if you dont deflate, you will not get very far at all. furthermore, snow tyres are basically non existent in australia.

    utv tyres are out of the question too as i would like DOT approved and non aggresive tyres.

    i regulary sit on the freeway no problem with my car at 100km/hr (~60mph). 175r13 or 185r14 light truck tyres are the only real options for me in terms of conservative increase in tyre diameter, while maintaining legal tyres for the road and robust, non aggresive treat pattern. Light truck tyres have extra plies much the same as 4wd tyres and are therefore more resistant to damage when 4wding.

    i have searched for "hunibar", "huni" on these forums and no such topic exists. care to point me in the right direction? only related result i found was a post by your referring to the hunibar

    am i right in assuming the hunibar effectively increases the length of the lower control arms by extending the mounting hole outwards? thereby correcting the camber issue while unstuffing the cv's?

    if this is the case i dont see how this is more effective than lowering the diff and therefore the mounting point for the lower control arms?
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?5960-Lifting-a-Carry

    "Lifting-a-Carry" VS "Lifting-a-Suzuki"
    The former wins, in my opinion. Here is the hunti-bar...

    This is so 2009 man, just read, then search, then read. Have a look at the cv joint angle pics (on angle cards) at full extension and compression. Search for it. Then read some more.

    I don't want to come across all negative, but you have to search out these answers. They've already been discussed in detail. If you have some specific questions after, lot's of guys here will be glad to help you out.

    I'm not about to argue a diff drop point with you. If you want to do it, then do it.

    In any case good luck with your mod, and hope to see a thread here about it.
     
  16. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Thought I would include this simple to understand conceptual sketch.

    12 to 24 deg.JPG
     
  17. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    so in summary

    a greater than 2" lift will move the wheels closer in and therefore compress/bind the CV. simple geometry proves this. wheel moves in and cv no longer has the required room to move.

    a "huntibar" eliminates need for a diff drop while correcting camber and alleviating cv joint binding?

    distance required to drop lower control arm mounting holes is = (lift height) - 1"

    therefore for 3" lift, general rule is to drop the mounting holes 2"?

    thanks again spaner, your knowledge is indeed very helpful
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012
  18. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    I don't mind helping out if you're going to do the reading, and figure out the details on your own. Looks like you did a bit. A few tara bytes of gems and some advanced techniques here.
    I kinda lied so that you could understand a little about the system. The huntibar corrects camber from the bottom, yes, and it is easier to understand the cv-axle stuffage concept through reference to the a-arms shorter horizontal distance as a consequence of strut extension. This is not really true though. It is due to the angle of rotation of the a-arm in relation to the angle of rotation of the inner CV joint. What is actually happening here, is that in using the huntibar, you are relocating the a-arm mount to a position below the CV joint AOR. Where it was above before, now it's below. This is what makes the new geometry work. While stock; the angles are very close together, yet stuffage is a combination of both of these factors. Moving to the new configuration, with the a-arm AOR below that of the inner CV, the conditions are reversed. Suffage happens with a decrease in lift, but, is also where less angle is required. Extension occurs with an increase in lift to the maximum CV extension and angle limit, while having corrected for camber.
    This is why dropping the diff has a negative effect in the stock configuration, as it amplifies the condition to a point where a "strait axle angle" condition is the only one available . Although fine, dropping, when following at greater lifts in the new geometry configuration. This also allows for proper rigging at maximum "off the ground" extension, as the limit of the strut, limits the angle. I have draw all of this out on here somewhere. I'm sure that you could find it.
    If you've done some reading then you will have been able to understand all of that.
    For your particular truck, the way to start is to jack it off the ground, remove the inner a-arm mount on the shortie side, as well as the drag link connection, and look at the maximum extension of the cv at slightly off camber (peal the boot back), as it will come back in when dropped down. Thinking that you have a 2.5" strut extension, you will have to drop the strut down an additional 2" to get the 4.5 that I found.
    Down the road:
    Use an afco spring lift to limit articulation.
    Total extension, 4"
    Compression with afcos, 3/4"
    Total lift from stock, 3 1/4"
    Boosted afco lift, 1 3/4"
    Total strut spacer 1 1/2"
    Suspension locks with 1/2 fudge factor and a few degrees either way.
    You will expect to drop the a-arm 3 1/4", and mount it at a lateral position that gives proper camber at ride loading.
    Lifting beyond 3 1/4" should be followed with an equal diff drop measure.
    Not to mention the rest of the stuff.
    Sure you don't just want to order a second set of ATV tires?[​IMG]



    The basics, think of it this way. The perfect geometry would be to set up the angles like an upper and lower control arm system. The upper being the axle, the lower being the a-arm. No stuffage, and no extension. You could use the full 4.5", but would be very difficult to set-up.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2012
  19. Wedge

    Wedge Member

    Great info spaner thanks.
     
  20. upgarage

    upgarage New Member

    anyone care to share their "huntibar" drawings for a 2002 carry?
     

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