What kind of lift kits are people using? What types of problems are you encountering? Any clever ideas or discoveries on lifting these trucks, particularly Daihatsus?
All the trucks I sell are 4x4. I don't lift them more that 2" in the front or else the front cv joints may bind or make noise. I have tried the lift kits from eBay and they work well. They are offset to help with the camber problem. See the item here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Diah...ryZ33585QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Jim
Jim, I have had the same experience. 2" is about all you can lift one of these trucks (Daihatsu or Suzuki) without causing the CV joints to bind when the suspension is fully extended. If the offset between the top and bottom flange is correct, there will not be a camber problem.
What do you suppose the folks that are lifting the trucks 6" or even more are doing? Like these guys.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-mi...ryZ43974QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Acer, These guys are doing exactly what I have been talking about in the Suzuki lift kit thread. It looks like they are building spacers and brackets to space the entire front drive components down from the frame. The control arms, differential, and struts are all spaced away from the frame. I believe this is the only way to do it correctly, and maintain the original geometry of all the suspension components. This is the same concept as the lift kits that are being used on full size, independent front suspension trucks. I believe these guys have a superior solution to lifting these trucks...I am doing my own research and design along this same concept....I'm just not as far along! If anyone has tried one of these kits, give us a report on how well they work.
Let us know how the installation goes on the 8" lift. I have a Jumbo with the 3" lift and I am experiencing the moaning and groaning of the front axles. I am very interested in getting the same 8" lift to correct the problems.
I got the 8" lift in today and have to report. The lift kit is well thought out except the parts must of been made in the dark with the guys doing the welding blindfolded. The quality of most of the parts is what disgusts me. Holes that do not line up, holes off center, bent/twisted parts, welds that look like crap, etc. The instructions are pics, no written instructions at all. Save your money, buy someone elses kit instead. Sorry for the rant. MM
Extreme Machines. Like I said in the post above yours, don't waste your money on the kit. The only good thing that has come out of this purchase is that I have something to go by. I will end up fabricating new parts that will fit properly without all of the issues that I previously mentioned. MM
Extreme Machines lifts I also bought one of there "Extreme Machines" 8" lift kits. Same story . . . grade school shop class workmanship. Don't waste your money! Here's my post from the Suzuki Carry forum . . . "Quote: Originally Posted by texagswin97 Anyone installed one of these 8" suspension lifts from extreme machines in Louisiana that they are selling on ebay?? If so please share your thoughts! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-lif...spagenameZWD1V STAY AWAY!!! I made the mistake of buying one of those kits. Absolute junk! The welds looked like the guy forgot to remove the lens cover from the welding mask. The brackets were all basically garbage. They were crooked with misaligned holes. Spring perches were uneven. Completely amature workmanship. I am planning to fab my own lift somewhere between 6" & 8". I'm trying to fit 27" tires on my Suzuki. I'll post some pictures when it's finished." I've since backed-off a bit and settled on a 5" lift w/26" tires. Also planning to add some weight to the rear end of the truck.
Lift Kit Hi where did you get the 5' lift kit and how is it working out thanks. heard of any good 6-8 inch kits around that work great?? Cliff
I have been looking at the Extreme Machine lifts. I plan to fabricate my own 8" using some of the techniques EM is using. I did notice that they are not offering longer brake lines. From looking at my 99, one would think that you would need them with that large of a lift. Anyway, my main concern at this point is the rear lift, I mean, It just seems that the driveshaft angle would be too extreme with the very short driveshaft ("Approx. 10-12" in length), I was thinking of lowering the engine/trans a couple of inches to alleviate such a harsh angle. Heres a question. Is the driveshaft of the pre 99 models longer or do they share the same basic running gear? One thing I do not like about the EM lifts is the extended knuckle bracket, I was thinking that I could find a longer strut off of a late model honda civic or similar auto. Mine is going on jackstands today. I'll try to document my progress with photos as I go along. Any other thoughts are appreciated. -Greg
Has anyone looked at using THESE coil overs to gain additional lift on top of what they have. I was thinking that I might be able to use the sleeve w/ the stock spring. They're cheap enough.
Greg, I have lifted a 91 and a 96 Daihatsu. The really short rear driveshaft is a problem. Lowering the engine/trans is the way I went, but I was only installing a 3" lift. For a larger lift you will probably have to tilt the engine/trans down more in the rear and then roll the rear end to keep the input and output shafts parallel. Before you do this you might want to research driveline angles. The angles of the u-joints must be right (the same, but in opposite directions) in order to keep from destroying them and causing vibration. Also, check the front CV joints for binding after installing the lift. If you go over 2-3" you will need to lower the front differential to maintain the original driveline angles. Jack the front of the truck completely off the ground and make sure you can rotate the wheels and driveshafts freely. You will also have to maintain the same length on the tie-rods in order to avoid bumpsteer. Just a few things to watch for, I've been there and learned these lessons! But working on these little trucks is alot of fun.
Thanks for the Got-chas. I thought about tilting but then I noticed that the front output shaft is already angled upward. I guess I could try to equalize the front and rear shaft angles while lowering the engine/trans at the same time? Greg
jr I lifted a 91 diahatsu with a 3 inch lift and have a binding problem would like to have some info on how you lowerd your engine and trans. thanks.
Hello guy's new to site ,i own a polaris ranger not a mini truck(but i do think they are neat)take a look at site called High Lifter ,...or Gorilla Axles,this might be a source or ideals on lifts or new controll arms and better axles for your trucks.
I have traded my 91 diahatsu for a pinzgauer. I ordered and installed a 2 and a half in lift with the same binding problem. I love theses trucks and plan to buy another later this summer but will not lift it in any way.
It depends a little if your Hijet has drums or discs on the front. For 3 inch lift the short side axle will pop out and you will have other binding issues. Definitly don't go any higher than 2 1/4 inch and buy from a reputable company that stands behind their product as some (especially ebay) sell junk that doesnt even fit.
Old thread I know but maybe a little resurrection is in order. Curious about lift kits and front springs. If I do a 2” lift (one that help adjust the camber), and heavier springs (maybe the progressive ones) will I get more than 2”? and will that likely cause binding in the CV joints? I know each truck is different but generally interested in guidance.
Did you happen to measure the height after the lift and then after the springs? Or did you do them all at once? Either way, any idea of overall lift?
Just about 2-inches. Maybe a little more. And it varies seasonally, as I take the snowplow and ballast in the back on and off. Probably just 1-1/2 in the winter.
Thanks. This is helpful. I’ll likely do the 2” and progressive springs. Been following Motocheez on YouTube. Very helpful videos.
I think when he did his lift, he was concerned about the rear driveline angle, and put a spacer to drop the rear of the transmission down to lessen the angles on the rear drive shaft.
Putting a lift kit in, then lowering the drive train kinds of defeats the purpose of the lift kit. I have a 2.25 inch lift kit with 24 inch dia. tire, that gives me just over 12 inches of room under the front diff and oil pan and 9 under the rear diff, and 10 under the transfer case.
Dale, I understand your point completely! Your limited with these little trucks, as far as clearance, off the ground. In my case I want as much ground clearance as I can get! Some lift it for a cooler look, I guess! Not into that too much! Limestone
