Hey guys. Wanted to see if anyone could give me some insite on an issue i'm having after lift kit install. I have a 92 Honda Acty and I recently installed a 2" lift on it. The lift i purchased did have some camber adjustment and i believe I've used that to its fullest advantage. The instructions say to push the strut assembly as far as possible towards the inside of the cab before tightening. I've got it as far as it will go before the top of the assembly hits the side wall. After doing all of this i have the following issues: While the truck is at rest i have a pretty good bit of negative camber. When the truck is put in reverse and backed out the truck raises up a little and while going in reverse the tires have positive camber. Then, when the truck starts foward again the camber reverses to negative and the truck drops down a little. Any ideas on how to adjust this and even things out? I can only assume this is not a good thing. This truck is for hunting only and is not driven a whole lot so a little bit of camber does not bother me. Can i adjust the tie rods to help this? Thanks for any help.
Sorry mate I never tried this on my truck. I would also like to know the solution. So that in future I will never have to face the problem like this.
A good and trusted mechanic is better know about lift lit but i want share with you a tip.there really isn't one, unless you plan on really pounding the trails or adding a ton of weight to your Jeep (or both), in which case it's just not enough. suspension lift kits
Pull struts back off and cut the lower bolt hole. I use a air cut off wheel or I guess you could use a hack saw if thats all you have. Cut the lower bolt hole perpindicular to the hole. This will allow adjustment all the way to the edge of flange. you will need a larger washer to give additional clamping pressure. When you re-install strut bolts push spindle inbound and use a screw driver in lower hole to pull more adjustment and tighten. Problem solved.
Not sure if this will help but I have 2 Honda Acty's, both 1991, one being an SDX model and one Attack model. The Attack model is lifted I believe 2 inches and it does not have any of the problems you've talked about. In the front there is a spacer on top of the strut that is not exactly shaped evenly, not sure how to really explain but it has everything I believe sitting like it should. Warning however, that one is having problems with the CV joints. Unfortunately the design of the Honda does not play well with being lifted. I am planning on taking the lift out of the Attack model because of this. Maybe you could share some pictures to further explain your situation ?
mschlitzkus, calm down man... You're coming through loud and clear. You can do the same thing with a "camber-correction-bolt", but that is a back-yard, cheap method you have there. Not sure why nobody here has said "Ok, I'll do that, thanks..." BUT, thankyou, yea, not rocket science... Correcting camber from the TOP of the strut, with any make/model, is a fool's game... Poo, poo, on the designers of any such lift kit correction method; it's just wrong. Dumb ass, lower ball joint, A-arm inner mounting point, or just a strut-mounting-bolt position correction. Stay away from the strut top. Idiots...
Spaner, The "camber correction bolt" may work on a 1.75-2" lift. It takes less time/ money to slot the lower hole. Just need to have a little mechanical ability...I did a 3" lift when I first got mine and the camber bolt would not adjust enough to get the correct positive camber. I then reverted the "backyard method" to get the correct camber and did away with the camber bolts. Drives absolutely perfect this way. You can also drop subframe and correct it too.
True, and I agree; although, I would recommend a lower A-arm mounting correction via camber correction bolt, re-purpose, or even a notching of the A-arm inner mounting. A complete notching of the lower strut mounting may include a dangerous condition of a failure point, due to lack of frictional restriction...safety stop. Does the mounting still include an ultimate failure point stoppage? An ultimate sliding blockage point? There are better ways to achieve the camber correction beyond the 3" lift. Including the Huntibar concept. A very viable solution to a common correctional problem. I agree that there are some very viable solutions to the above 3" lift, but that a "through-cut" to the lower strut mounting is not one of them...