My 93 suzuki carry won't start.......... We are having a some cold weather here in OK for the past week and i have been working on my truck trying to figure out its sputtering. I have tried adjusting the rear timing and i bought a vacuum gauge and where i was looking for one of the vacuum lines I took off a line going from the distributor (not the distributor itself but some drum down by it). I WILL ADMIT I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT MECHANICS:sly: BUT I AM TRYING TO LEARN.......op: Anyways, i put that line back on and then tried to start it and it wouldn't start anymore. I have tried spraying starting fluid in it and it won't start. It will turn over and sound like it wants to start but will not actually start. :frustration: I am at a loss:frustration::frustration::frustration::frustration:, i think it might be the fuel pump because when i turn the key i hear only one pump sound or click..... what should sound like fuel flowing is only one click...... Im thinking about selling because i am in need for something to fit in the back of my truck to be more mobile........... So i need to get it running........ Plus i need to get it running just because i use it for chores anyways.
I think your fuel pump sounds about right. Mine will click a few times when I turn the key on cold. When I start it up after it has only sat 10 or 15 minutes I get about 1 click. You said it's getting cold there. I have learned that here in Michigan I have to pump the he** out of the gas pedal before I hit the key and keep stroking it until I feel it running on it's own and starts to idle up. Maybe 4 to 5 seconds.
wont start Too many loose ends for guessing my friend!!! Is your choke working - is it stuck open or closed? Are your plugs wet fouled or is the engine even getting any fuel? Are the plugs firing? Was it giving you any trouble in warm weather or did this just happen when the weather turned cold? You may have water in your fuel system which has turned to ice. Use isopropyl -NOT METHYL HYDRATE. Do NOT use starting fluid. Use something like Carb and Choke Cleaner. It is much more engine friendly.
You're having some real problems, and it can be difficult, if you don't have a clue. You're best bet, is to take it to a reputable "all around mechanic", who is willing to not only "take on" your current problems, but also maintain it for you, so that you can just enjoy it and not have to worry about it.:frustration: If it was mine, I would get myself some of those romantic type fireplace matches, 10"ers, pull the plugs (all), and "match" all of the cylinders, one at a time. Dry all the plugs, with a propane torch, and put the plugs back in; try it again. That would eliminate the carb enrichment (flooded) problems that you have been having. But, If you need me to also tell you that you need to: 1) Take it out of gear first, or 2) Have a fire extinguisher and garden hose on hand, then Just take it to a mechanic, before someone gets hurt. If it is just a hobby truck, then it is GREAT to learn on, If it's your daily driver, it is not, and you will end up hating it. Best of luck.
Check your fuses. I had a cold weather issue where a frozen AWD solenoid blew out the fuel pump fuse when I tried to engage it ('cause they were on the same circuit!). That was a really cold day though, like -35C. Try and put it somewhere warm if you can, like a garage and put a space heater by it. Then see if it starts.
I'm having a similar issue. I've spent the last few days reading posts on numerous threads. So far I've read that there are two? Relays on the driver side under the dash and possibly one more under the passenger seat but this is the first I saw of a control box. Is there a thread specific to this mysterious fuel pump problem? Mine worked when I got it home but when I went to start it again it didn't. Pump fires up and pushes a couple ounces of fuel then shuts off. Never to run again till I turn the key off then on again. I bought a 3.5 to 4 psi universal pump just to see if it would run if I sent fuel to the carb. It didn't. I have spark. I'm beginning to become disgruntled and starting to have buyers remorse and I Havnt even got to the easy stuff that I knew I needed to fix. Clutch being the most major. After the not running part. I even pulled the timing cover to make sure the belt didn't break. Its a 94 suzuki carry DD51t with axle lock diff lock and hi low t case.........
Moose Not sure if you know this but when you first turn the key the factory fuel pump clicks a couple of times to make pressure then stops when the fuel system is pressurized. It won't sit there and run with the engine not running. When the engine is running it goes click....click...click. Not a constant hum or noise. Did you pull a spark plug to see if it is wet with fuel. If it isn't and you have a carb hit the gas pedal about 10 times and try starting it again. When mine is cold that is what it takes to get her going. Then I have to hit the gas a few more times to keep it running.
I pulled the plugs. That took a bit and I destroyed the wires. Had to chisel them out. They were broken and melted to the hole they are in. That was great fun. Looked brand new too. So I got new wires today. I can't find the firing order. But with all the wd40 I sprayed in the holes to get the wires out I had one plug that looked wet....with fuel not wd Hahaha. Put new plugs in. Just not the cap rotor or wires. Then ill be back to where I began again..........Hahaha
I've had mixed answers on firing order......123, 132....... So I did my best forensics and threw the wires on the way I think they were to begin with late last night. Got her to almost want to run. So I'm stuck wondering if its wired wrong. Hahaha
Did it backfire? My repair manual doesn't show firing order so I went out and looked at mine. So if the dist. rotates CW firing order is 1-3-2 Hope this helps Wow. Someone need to clean their engine :O
Hahaha. Never clean them. That's when things break!!! Hahaha thanx. Ill go out and check mine right now. I'm goin to pull the cap and make sure number one is where its supposed to be as well.....who knows this poor abused lil guy might just run yet. Hahaha then I can work on figuring out how to get the tranny out and take a look at the clutch.
When I did my clutch I bought the kit from G&R Imports which didn't include a pilot bearing but NAPA was able to match it up with an alternator bearing.Of course the box got thrown away before I made note of the number and I'm not going to tear it apart again so this is the best I can give you.
vacuum leaks are 85% of carb and idling problems, use a vacuum gauge or carb cleaner, carb cleaner will send the engine to high idle if you have a vacuum leak, make sure the vacuum port in the air cleaner canister is working properly, also check that your vacuum advance hose isn’t cracked coming off the distributor to the vacuum manifold tree. The vacuum manifold tree is brass on the bottom to go in to the block and plastic on top. Plastic wears out with time and will break or leak, which causes a vacuum leak. Some manifold vacuum trees are 3 or 4 port, make sure to replace it with a new one. When I buy parts I buy 3 at a time that way I have them on hand or in case they can’t get them any more. The vacuum manifold tree is located behind the carb. If you looking at the carb from the right side of the bed, it will be to your 1 O’clock tucked down inside. Remember to use a marker or different colored tape to mark the vacuum lines so you know where everything goes back too! Good luck!’
