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Hijet Tires Rubbing Going Straight ? (Stock)

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by MattKernee, Nov 18, 2022.

  1. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    Just picked up a 1990 Hijet Climber from the port.
    Idles like a dream..
    Tires seem brand new 155/12 ( so stock ? )
    Drives great, rolls smooth until 25kph
    The, exactly at 25kph, and any speed over , there is some sort of rubbing sensation. It’s not much of a vibration through the car, just a rubbing or maybe grinding sound. Seems like a tires rubbing but maybe I’m missing something? This happens driving completely straight and isn’t better or worse when turning. I’m hoping it’s not something in the gears. I suspected the door but si don’t see any noticeable rub marks on either the door or tires…
    I’m gonna take off the front wheels and check again for rub wear anywhere and report back but if anyone else has tips let me know please !
  2. HiJinks

    HiJinks Member

    Congrats on the new ride. I have two ideas.

    Are you in 4 wheel mode? When my climber is in 4x4 I notice a drastic difference in noise. It does sound/feel like a low growl almost grinding sound.

    Could it be wheel bearing wear?

    Just some ideas.
    Limestone likes this.
  3. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    Hey there HiJinks,
    It’s the same in 4WD and 2wd
    I did suspect a wheel bearing , but turning doesn’t seem to change the noise so… I don’t know. I keep hoping it’s something dumb but suspect it’s going to be some real work haha. Maybe I’ll just drive it till something breaks then I’ll know what’s wrong
  4. Tripthyme

    Tripthyme Active Member Supporting Member

    Tire will rub or won't rub speed wont change this. I would add some lsd (just like the 60s! Some electric coolaid! Haha) to your front and rear diffs and see if that helps. Don't add too much! Or the trip could not be so fun. Pun intended. If youxdo add too much you will feel the slip. Drain and refill with gear oil add no lsd should be plenty residual.
  5. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Get under and look for wear spots. If something is rubbing, you will find bare shiny metal somewhere.

    And, try wiggling things to see if you can find something loose. Check the brakes to see if you have a stuck pad or shoe. Jack it up, and rotate thewheels, and see if you can hear noise anywhere.
    Limestone likes this.
  6. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    In the morning with a fresh mind: Rotate things with it jacked off the ground, and listen, check all the universal, and constant velocity joints for looseness. Put your jack stands under the suspension as far out as you can. You don’t necessarily need the wheels on. You want to have the drive train as close as you can to the normal ride height. Check drive shafts for dings.

    Is the noise there in the lower gears? You could have something wearing in the transmission, that is only under load in 3-4. But not loaded in 1-2.

    Make sure the differential lock system is actually working correctly. On my truck, low range automatically locks the axles. I can hit the switch on the dash to engage 4wd in high range. But the truck only stays in 4wd until I shift to 3rd, (about 25-mph). The rear axle lock will stay engaged in all gears, if I engage it with the separate switch.
  7. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    Thanks for your reply, Jigs.
    I have been working 70 hour weeks, so not much time to play with it… but I did mess with it a little after work today before it got dark. It seems like it’s coming from the front left wheel so I started there. Found 2 lug nuts so loose that you could twist them with fingers… “easy fix!”… tightened… nope still has the rubbing/grinding.
    Looked again for rub marks with the front wheels off and could find none. (Will look again with more light tomorrow. While on the front left side noticed that the front driveshaft runs there near the wheel. Found a thin sheet metal splash guard touching the driveline… “easy fix” I thought again. Bent it till it cleared the shaft. Still rubbing / grinding arghhh. Maybe a bad u-joint in the driveshaft? Never heard one make that noise but maybe ? Will remove driveshaft tomorrow to test, I guess. Just praying it’s not the front differential (it’s situated front left area where the grind/rub seems to be coming from)
    To answer your question, the noise happens in any gear once you get about 25kph.
    I don’t think it’s the transmission as it is coming very distinctly from front left of the Truck.
    I rotated both wheels (and the hubs with the wheels off) with the truck jacked up and heard nothing, bearings seem fine.

    One thing… my e-brake light is staying on… the parking brake is all the way down and definitely disengages and engages fine (tested it on a bill). Perhaps a brake issue?

    The nice local police pulled me over on my last “test lap” around the block and told me if they see it even lapping the block again I am gonna have problems =/

  8. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    Couldn’t a change in speed cause a rub if the suspension was worn ?
    It definitely bottoms out really easily in potholes.
  9. Tripthyme

    Tripthyme Active Member Supporting Member

    It could during breaking, nose dive but in forward it should run even or buck back from torque. Idk about you but my guy don't have that much torque to do that. Maybe bumper or plastic brush guard underneath flapping in the wind? If you have the means get all 4 wheel off the ground and run it up to 25kph.
  10. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    looks like you win this time, Jigs.
    It was a badly dinged front drive shaft.
    The rest of the truck is great. Idles and runs amazing. And it’s a Climber Dump =)
    Probably a bit of money for the part … but it takes 5 minutes to install so I’m a happy boy. Wont be tearing anything major apart. Took the front drive shaft out and the truck drove smooth as a baby’s butt (and lost all its gear oil ha).

    Thanks guys.

    Anyone know if the drive shafts are the same on a Climber as they are on a regular s83p?

    Or anyone know someone who can cut a new shaft for a reasonable price in CT area?

    edit: I’m impatient ; ordered a regular s83p driveshaft (the only one I could find anyway) for $250 on eBay. Kinda looks slightly bent too and not sure if it will fit but hey whatever free returns for 30 days =D
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2022
    Tripthyme likes this.
  11. Tripthyme

    Tripthyme Active Member Supporting Member

    I have 2 front shafts for a suzuki carry dd51t, both slightly different, measure, take some pictures and I can see if one might fit/work.
  12. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Well-Known Member

    Doesn't really cost much to have a local driveshaft shop replace the tube, they will balance it too.

  13. Tripthyme

    Tripthyme Active Member Supporting Member

    Ok cool deal. I'm used to country life. We don't have a place within 30 miles that could do that and he is always backed up a month or 2.
  14. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    Here in CT everyone charges an arm and a leg for every service. I bet it would be atleast $200. And probably closer to the same price I paid for the used shaft on eBay. Patatoe potato… if they replace the ujoints tho… doesn’t matter it’s done I bought the slightly-bent-looking shaft on eBay lol *facepalm*
  15. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    I looked at some of those actually and they looked very similar (the same?) . I’ll upload a pic and measurement of the old shaft tomorrow !
  16. MattKernee

    MattKernee New Member

    1F672EB6-D18B-4873-93C0-B6657DE2813F.jpeg The shaft I ordered on eBay. … at first I thought maybe it was the camera angle making it look bent, but I looked at other driveshafts from the seller and all seem straight argh..

    pray for me lol

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