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High idle question 1995 Suzuki carry)

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by shightower, May 22, 2014.

  1. shightower

    shightower New Member

    I have found tons of info on the high idle issue. My question is :

    1. If the line that comes off the exhaust and goes to the carb has come loose will this make it idle high.

    It idles great when first started and as it warms the idle increases. Runs just fine though

    This makes me think that person that adjusted idle possibly didn't know about the pellets /exhaust heat etc.

    2. Can I assume that I can let it warm then adjust the idle at that point and fix the situation?

    Any tips and tricks on this high idle would be appreciated.

    Thanks for help
     
  2. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    The hose from the exhaust wont make a difference.The usual problem is blocked coolant lines through the carb but it sounds like you understand about them and they don't make it run faster,just won't make it slow down.If it speeds up as it warms up something has been hooked up wrong or you have a vacuum leak when it warms up.Spaner posted a step by step adjustment procedure I think in the "desperately need tuning help" thread but I wouldn't mess with that except as a last resort.Look for the simple things first as that's usually what it is.
     
  3. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Sometime ago I had a Suz carb. rebuilt by Hite parts. 99.99 % Hite does a great job but when this one was reinstalled it had really high rpms when on the choke(cold engine). I called Hite and told them what what happening and they said the choke was most likely set to high. There is a little screw on the rear side of carb.(mid area) that adjusts the rpms when on choke with cold engine.
    (The screw on the front of carb. is adjustment for warm engine idle).
    Adjusted the choke screw and good to go.
    I agree with what Mr. Jim said, vacuum line, coolant line to carb.(coolant lines on 75% of these trucks are clogged up to some degree) clogged up,
    choke assy. stiff(lube up choke connections).
    As always a good dose of sea foam straight into carb. and added the the vacuum lines does wonders.
    Its real important to replace the vacuum lines if they havnt already been replaced. Over time they will bleed. They will look ok but they are not. Remember some of these vacuum lines are 15+- yrs. old and have lost there integrity.
     
  4. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Hype; +1 for best answer guys,

    Replace old and worn-out parts; wires and hoses.
    Replace old vacuum lines by first buying 25 feet of hose; one roll of vacuum AND, odd lengths and diameters of coolant hose/line. Replace them all.:p Cheeeeep fix...

    Mechanical control adjustments are made AFTER all other problems have been solved; the most basic of which, are blocked and/or leaky hoses...

    "TIP-TOP" FIRST, then, maybe, start turning carb screws, maybe...

    Replace "what looks like a good hose", with a good hose; best advice ever for the mini truck after-market...:sly:
     
  5. shightower

    shightower New Member

    Thank you for replies. I just purchased this carry. The guy I purchased from rebuilt the carb.
    I'm going to start with hoses and go from there.
     
  6. shightower

    shightower New Member

  7. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    No pic it comes back as "no valid attachment" This happens a lot lately.
     
  8. shightower

    shightower New Member

    Ok. Thanks. I fixed it though! I noticed a vacuum line off carb either 1 or 5. I think 1 though. Ran this line to that part and it idled down. Next issue is why doesn't my heater blow hot!!!
     

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