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Fuel Pumps and Fuel lines. Carry truck 93

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Puro, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. Puro

    Puro Member

    Hello people!

    Recently I decided I'd rebuild my carburetor (and boy is that thing needlessly complicated) and someone on the forum suggested I'd re-do my whole fuel system while I was at it.
    I agree.
    However, there's a few things I might need help on, mainly what type of fuel pump to get and the actual fuel lines

    Firstly, the fuel pumps.
    I've been looking around and so far there's a few relevant options I have to weight:
    The first option would be to go for a brand new, original fuel pump. Which would set me back 250$
    The second would be an original (rebuilt) one. 150$
    The third option would be a new, universal one. 100$
    And lastly, I go full E-bay and pay 60$ to have some made-in-china knockoff delivered to my door.

    Which one you'd suggest?

    My second point would be regarding the fuel lines... once again, my lack of mechanical experience led me to believe that this would be a one-size-fit-all solution... boy oh boy. There's aluminum, braided stainless steel, solid stainless steel, copper nickel, copper, etc...

    Once again, where do I start? Also, what special tools would I need?

    Thank you!
     
  2. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Puro,
    Exactly!!! I took my carb to a good friend of mine to rebuild! He is a carb. expert! Barr none! Not self pro claimed at all, he just is! Evan he said, that it's one of the most complicated over built pieces of #%@^ that he's ever seen! I'm telling you, from carbs. on race cars to many different carbs., He's good, and I have had the pleasure of knowing and working with him on several projects where I value his opinion! Unfortunately after I got it back from him and installed the carb. The darn two wire solenoid started leaking fuel and, I couldn't find another in the world to save my life! To me, that's Horse hockey! If your gonna build or design a vehicle and sell it, then product support the dog gone things with replacement parts! I put an after market carb. on mine with a manual choke! It runs good! I havn't really run it a lot, giving it the true test, as I'm doing a complete vehicle overhaul, kinda as a hobby project! Not being an every day driver, I'm able to do that! To be perfectly honest, I'm not real convinced on these being good everyday driver's! That's just me! A lot of people have had good luck with them, and I wish them well, and I hope they have great luck with them!!! Check out the other threads on the forum, a lot of guy's used after market fuel pumps for a few $, as little as nothing! I replaced my fuel pump,(mechanical) with a new one from Todd at Proline Parts, in California! It works well! It's very important to keep your fuel system clean, and your tank full as often as possible to eliminate rust, and the likes! The fuel lines are metric, like everything else on these things, so you can't just buy standard stuff, but you can match up according to size and inside diameter. You have to get a little creative. I'm hoping someone can add more technical info to this and help you out! I'm betting they will! Some good folks on here!
    Limestone
     
  3. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I went with an electric pump, and pre-filter mounted back at the tank. You can get a universal low pressure electric pump for less than $20.
    JDMSPEED Universal 12V Heavy Duty Electric Fuel Pump Metal Solid Petrol 12 Volts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L8IHM9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DBZHEb3024MVD
    You will need a regulator, the little truck like about 2.5-psi. I used one of these, because the local parts house had one in stock for $39.95:
    Mr. Gasket 9710 Fuel Regulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWAPQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RFZHEbB9P22T4
    As for lines, any of the flexible lines at your local parts house will work. Or, you could get fancy and install silicone lines At the pressures pour trucks run at. If you need new hard lines, get the largest diameter monel brake lines, and cut/bend them to fit.

    I had to plug the return line which runs from the stock pump back to the tank, at the tank.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  4. Puro

    Puro Member

    Monel brake lines, according to google, are copper/nickel hardlines, so I guess I'll go with that. I'll go outside and measure the diameter of what I currently have.
    As for the fuel pump... 20$ is a sexy price my wallet seems to be happy about, though, with that regulator and both the shipping fees, I might as well go for that chinese e-bay knockoff replica I found?
    Honestly the main issue I have with those two would be quality and reliability more than ease of installment.
    Sure, my truck is basically my summer ride... so it doesn't have to take me all over the place all the time... but still. I would appreciate if it didn't break down only a month later.
    Are fuel pumps something you can go cheap on?
     
  5. Puro

    Puro Member

    There's... so many things on that carburetor that I have absolutely no idea what they do. That electric solenoid, as you mentioned, for example. What does it do? What's the point of it? Can't the carburetor work if you leave that thing unplugged?
    Then there's freakin' WaTeR LiNeS going through that thing as well... that's literally the first time I even heard of that. Can't it work without them? There seem to be some kind of... piston attached to them that pushes on the brackets... I suppose that controls the idle speed on cold starts? Isn't that what the electric solenoid is there for? AHHHHH
    Anyway... if I fail to repair this thing. And my chinese replica doesn't work... I will most-likely go for an aftermarket motorbike carburetor as plan C.
     
  6. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    The solenoid with the wire going to it, is probably an idle cutoff. Typically when the key is on, the solenoid withdraws and allows fuel to get to the idle jet, and idle circuit. Turn off the key and it closes the idle circuit to keep the truck from running on.

    The next most likely thing the electric wire could go to is a solenoid which rev limits teh engine by pulsing the main fuel circuit as the engine comes up to the limited rpm. this keeps the engine from over revving, or in some cases there is a dual purpose which also uses it as the speed limiter, and when you come up to the limited speed it pulses the main fuel circuit, to limit the road speed.

    The water lines go to the wax motor of the choke mechanism, and if you don’t have them the choke doesn’t disengage, and the engine runs very rich if it runs at all.
     
  7. Puro

    Puro Member

    Update:
    I've been disassembling J̶o̶h̶n̶n̶y̶ ̶5̶ my carburetor successfully thus far...
    The only problem I've been having is removing the dang flange from the carburetor... that thing is stuck there something fierce. It almost seems glued there for crying out loud...
    Not sure how much prying this thing can take before breaking... I tried tapping it with a hammer but I'm still having no luck!
    I've started cleaning it anyway... but something tells me there's still dirt behind that that I gotta clean.

    I'm asking here because I didn't felt like starting a whole thread just for that...
     
  8. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Boy, that's one of the problems that we face with picking up where somebody else left off. Meaning, I agree, you don't want to break that off! You never know what the last guy used, lock tight, epoxy, gasket compound! It won't take much to break that darn thing. Keep taking your time, so as not to crack or break it! I'm wondering if a solvent of some kind might help, and not hurt anything else! Any way to try to gently work a razor blade in there, between the joint, possibly graduating to a more firmer, thicker, sturdier, blade like a thin, yet stronger, putty knife? Good Luck!
    Limestone
     
  9. Puro

    Puro Member

    I've already dunked the whole thing in paint thinner to remove all the crud from it (That thing was a mess!) and it did nothing to loosen the flange.
    Then again, is removing that thing even necessary for a cleanup? If not... I may as well leave it there?
     
  10. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    You absolutely certain you have all the screws out?
     
  11. Puro

    Puro Member

    Positive! That thing must've been glued there.
    Now I'm just debating if I should keep trying to pry this thing off or leave it there... Is it essential to clean whatever's underneath that?
     
  12. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Not a fan of the paint thinner, in this application! I'm a huge fan of upping my vitamin "C" intake, simply to boost my immune system! Gonna go get some Vodka, alcohol helps to disinfect! Gonna combine the two and make a screwdriver!!!:)
     

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